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PUBLISHED  NOVEMBER.  1914 


PRINTED  BY  J.  B.  LIPPINCOTT  COMPANY 

AT  THE  WASHINGTON  SQUARE  PRESS 

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THIS  BOOK  IS  AFFECTIONATELY 
DEDICATED  TO 

DR.  ROBERT  HUEY 

WHO  GAVE   ME   MT   FIRST  INSPIRATION  IN 
ROSE   GROWING 


FOREWORD 

THE  author  believes  that  there  is  need  for  a  short, 
concise  work  on  the  best  outdoor  roses  for  our 
American  climate,  with  practical  working  rules  for 
their  culture.  It  is  his  ami  to  supply  this  need  in 
three  ways: 

First,  by  plain  and  carefully  thought  out  rules, 
which  have  proven  successful  for  many  years  in 
actual  practice. 

Second,  by  a  list  of  roses  made  only  after  the 
entire  catalogue  list  of  varieties  has  been  systemat- 
ically tried  for  years  in  this  country  in  testing  beds. 

Third,  by  illustrations  in  color  reproduced  from 
autochrome  color  photographs  made  from  the  varie- 
ties tested. 

In  addition,  chapters  devoted  to  general  infor- 
mation are  added  as  of  interest,  and  books  going 
further  into  detail  on  the  various  subjects  are 
suggested. 

The  rules  and  arguments  leading  to  their  use,  as 
herein  set  forth,  have,  as  a  base,  rose  growing  in 
the  approximate  climate  of  the  Middle  Atlantic 
States,  where  the  extreme  temperature  in  winter 
does  not  often  go  below  zero  and  the  summer  heat 


FOREWORD 

seldom  exceeds  95  degrees.  This  climate  has  rapid 
changes,  all  damaging  to  plant  life,  and  it  will 
readily  be  understood  that,  with  the  exception  of 
climates  where  there  is  a  more  intense  cold  or  heat, 
the  list  and  rules,  as  hereafter  given,  will  hold  good. 
Suggestions  are  made  for  growing  roses  farther 
north  and  farther  south. 

In  England  and  parts  of  Europe  many  roses 
flourish  which  when  tried  in  America  fail  utterly. 

We  have  used  the  words  " failure"  and  "weak 
growers"  to  mean  that  our  experiments  in  America 
with  these  varieties  have  been  unsuccessful.  Under 
more  favorable  conditions  such  varieties  may  do 
well. 

This  book  does  not  pretend  to  be  in  any  sense  a 
complete  scientific  treatise  on  the  rose  or  the  more 
intricate  details  of  its  culture,  such  as  hybridization, 
budding,  grafting,  etc.,  which  the  average  amateur 
rose  grower  would  not  care  to  undertake  and  which 
are  well  and  amply  covered  in  standard  works. 

The  author  wishes  to  acknowledge,  with  great 
appreciation,  the  help  of  Dr.  Robert  Huey  in  all 
phases  of  his  work. 

Thanks  are  due  to  Messrs.  Henry  A.  Dreer,  Inc., 
Philadelphia,  for  their  help  in  importing  and  secur- 
ing new  varieties,  and  also  for  giving  data  on  roses 
tested  by  them. 

6 


FOREWORD 

The  aid  of  Messrs.  Williams,  Brown  &  Earle, 
Philadelphia,  made  possible  the  taking  of  the  colored 
photographs. 

The  Japanese  Multiflora  which  we  recommend  for 
certain  varieties  was  first  brought  to  our  notice  by 
the  stock  of  George  H.  Peterson,  of  Fair  Lawn, 

NeW  JerSey'  G.  C.  T,  Jr. 

September,  1914 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  PAGE 

I.  THE  PROPAGATION  OF  ROSES 15 

II.  THE  BEST  VARIETIES,  WITH  THEIR  CHARACTERISTICS S3 

III.  CLIMBERS 67 

IV.  LOCATION  AND  PREPARATION 80 

V.  ORDERING 91 

VI.    PLANTING 100 

VII.    PRUNING 109 

VIII.    CULTIVATION 125 

IX.    SOME  GENERAL  INFORMATION  AND  HINTS  ON  HYBRIDIZATION  139 
INDEX  . .  .  151 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

COLOR  PLATES 

MM 

TESTING  BEDS — AUTHOR'S  HOME Frontispiece 

KlLLARNEY  BRILLIANT 26 

REVERSION  OF  MRS.  HARKNESS 28 

SIXTEEN  BEST  ROSES  (FOLLOWING  PAGE  42) 

FRAU  KARL  DRUSCHKI No.  1 

MADAME  JULES  BOUCHE No.  2 

ANTOINE  REVOIRE No.  3 

ELLEN  WILMOT No.  4 

KlLLARNEY No.     5 

JONKHEER  J.  L.  MOCK No.    6 

MADAME  LEON  PAIN No.    7 

LADY  ALICE  STANLEY No.    8 

ROBERT  HUEY No.    9 

GENERAL  MACARTHUR No.  10 

LAURENT  CARLE No.  11 

GRUSS  AN  TEPLITZ No.  12 

HARRY  KIRK No.  13 

DUCHESS  OF  WELLINGTON No.  14 

BETTY No.  15 

MRS.  A.  R.  WADDELL No.  16 

CHRISTINE  WRIGHT 69 

CLIMBING  KAISERIN  AUGUSTA  VICTORIA 70 

AVIATEUR  BLERIOT 76 

ROSES  ON  DR.  HUEY'S  PLACE 82 

FIRST  BLOOM  OF  A  HYBRID  TEA  SEEDLING 145 

FOLLOWING  LAST  PAGE  OF  VOLUME,  IN  ALPHABETICAL  ORDER 

ALEX.  HILL  GRAY 
ALICE  LEMON 
ANNIE  BESANT 
BEAUTE  INCONSTANTE 

11 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

BRITISH  QUEEN 

CARDINAL 

CARINE 

COMTESSE  FELICIE  HOTOS 

COMTESSE  MAGGI  STARZYNSKA 

(On  same  plate  with  Mrs.  Hubert  Taylor) 
COUNTESS  OP  DERBY 

(On  same  plate  with  Gartendirector  Hartrath) 
CHARLES  J.  GRAHAMS 
CREME  SIMON 
C.  W.  COWAN 

(On  same  plate  with  Elizabeth) 
DEAN  HOLE 

DOROTHY  PAGE  ROBERTS 
DOROTHY  RATCLIFFE 
DUCHESS  OF  SUTHERLAND 
DUCHESS  OF  WESTMINSTER 
EARL  OF  WARWICK 
EDWARD  MAWLEY 

(On  same  plate  with  Eugene  Boullet) 
ELIZABETH 
EUGENE  BOULLET 
EVELYN  DAUNTESEY 
FARBEN  KONIGIN 
FREIHERR  VON  MARSCHALL 
F.  R.  PATZER 

GARTENDIRECTOR  HARTRATH 
GEOFFREY  HENSLOW 
GEORGE  C.  WARD 

(On  same  plate  with  Lady  Battersea) 
GEORGE  DICKSON 
HERMOSA 
HUGO  ROLLER 
JOSEPH  HILL 
KAISER  WILHELM  II 

(On  same  plate  with  Charles  J.  Grahame) 
LADY  ASHTOWN 
LADY  BARHAM 
LADY  BATTERSEA 
LADY  DE  BATHE 

12 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

LADY  GREENALL 

(On  same  plate  with  Comtesse  Felicie  Hoyos) 
LADY  HELEN  VINCENT 
LADY  HILLINGDON 
LADY  KATHERINE  ROSE 

(On  same  plate  with  Lady  Helen  Vincent) 
LADY  MARGARET  BOSCAWEN 
LADY  MOYRA  BEAUCLERC 
LADY  PIRRIE 
LYON 

MABEL  DREW 
MADAME  A.  TUPINTEB 
MADAME  CHARLES  LEJEUNE 
MADAME  EDOUARD  HERRIOT 
MADAME  LUCIEN  PICARD 

(On  same  plate  with  Creme  Simon) 
MADAME  MELANIE  SOUPERT 
MADAME  PAUL  ROUCHON 
MADAME  SEGOND  WEBER 
MADAME  VERMOREL 

MADAME  WAGRAM,  COMTESSE  DE  TURENNE 
MADEMOISELLE  MARIE  MASCURAND 
MADEMOISELLE  SIMONE  BEAUMEZ 
MARY,  COUNTESS  OP  ILCHESTER 

(On  same  plate  with  Lady  Battersea) 
MARY,  COUNTESS  OP  ILCHESTER 
Miss  ALICE  DE  ROTHSCHILD 
MRS.  ARTHUR  E.  E.  COXHEAD 
MRS.  CHARLES  CUSTIS  HARRISON 
MRS.  CHARLES  E.  ALLAN 
MRS.  HUBERT  TAYLOR 
MRS.  JAMES  CRAIG 
MRS.  JOSEPH  H.  WELCH 
MRS.  LEONARD  PETRIE 
MRS.  RICHARD  DRAPER 
MRS.  WALLACE  H.  ROWE 

(On  same  plate  with  Madame  Charles  Lejeune) 
MRS.  WALTER  EASLEA 
NATALIE  BOTTNER 
ODETTE  PEDRIOLLE 

13 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


OPHELIA 

PHARISAER 

PRESIDENT  WILLIAM  HOWARD  TAFT 

PRINCE  DE  BULGARIE 

RADIANCE 

SENATEUR  MASCURAND 

Souv.  DU  PRESIDENT  CARNOT 

ST.  HELENA 

WHITE  KILLARNET 

W.  R.  SMITH 


HALFTONE  PLATES 

ROSE  CTJTTINQ  READY  FOR  PLANTING 18 

HYBRID  TEA  AND  MANETTI  FOLIAGE 21 

SEEDLINGS  SHOWING  VARIED  GROWTHS 29 

HYBRID  TEA  ROSE,  Nor  PRUNED  BUT  ALLOWED  TO  DEVELOP  116 

SAME  ROSE  PROPERLY  PRUNED 116 

ROSE  WITH  PETALS  REMOVED,  SHOWING  STAMENS  AND  ANTHERS  146 
SAME  ROSE  WITH  MOST  OP  STAMENS  AND  ANTHERS  REMOVED  .  146 
SEED  POD  ON  A  HYBRID  TEA  ROSE  WHICH  HAS  BEEN  HYBRIDIZED  148 


THE  PRACTICAL  BOOK  OF 
OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

i 

THE  PROPAGATION  OF  ROSES 
ESTABLISHED  VARIETIES 

IN  this  chapter  it  is  aimed  to  give  the  reader  such 
general  information  as  will  enable  him  to  compre- 
hend the  main  principles  of  the  propagation  of  the 
rose.  In  order  that  he  may  fairly  understand  the 
following  chapters,  and  the  general  scheme  of  the 
selection  of  varieties  and  the  ordering  of  the  same, 
this  chapter  should  be  read  carefully.  It  is  not  our 
intention,  as  explained  in  the  introduction,  to  puzzle 
the  home  rose  grower  with  all  the  scientific  details 
of  each  phase  of  rose  culture;  but  it  is  believed  that 
the  following  paragraphs  will  give  a  good  working 
idea  of  the  methods  employed.  For  those  who  may 
care  to  follow  out  such  matters  to  their  utmost 
conclusion  the  names  of  exhaustive  works  are  given. 

Established  roses  are  propagated  by  the  following 
methods:  seeds,  layering  and  suckers;  cuttings,  bud- 
ding and  grafting,  the  last  three  being  the  principal 

methods. 

15 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

SEEDS 

In  order  to  secure  established  varieties  seeds  are 
used  only  in  special  cases,  because  they  can  only 
be  relied  upon  to  reproduce  plants  of  their  own  kind 
when  they  are  taken  from  original  species.  Seeds 
of  hybrids  are  useless  for  this  end,  as  their  seedlings 
do  not  conform  to  the  parent  stock.  In  other  words, 
hybrids  do  not  come  true  from  seeds,  and  then* 
seeds  are  only  useful  for  new  varieties.  "Experi- 
ments with  Plants,"  by  Osterhout,  goes  further 
into  the  scientific  treatment  of  seeds  than  any 
book  we  have  seen. 

LAYERING 

Many  plants  and  some  roses  increase  by  layering, 
that  is,  throwing  out  a  branch  which  becomes  rooted 
and  in  turn  sends  out  its  branches  to  root  themselves 
and  carry  out  nature's  work  of  increase.  Layering 
is  not  practised  to  any  great  extent,  as  it  is  a  longer 
process  than  the  others  and  requires  not  only  more 
time  to  accomplish  results,  but  also  more  space 
either  in  greenhouse  or  nursery. 

Layering  is  now  only  used  for  some  varieties 
which  do  not  root  well  from  cuttings.  Ellwanger 
cites  Persian  Yellow  as  one  of  these. 

It  is  a  simple  and  easy  operation,  and  is  accom- 
plished by  bending  down  a  rose  cane  of  a  growing 

16 


THE  PROPAGATION  OF  ROSES 

plant,  scientifically  notching  it  with  a  knife  (tech- 
nically known  as  tongueing),  and  then  putting  the 
tongued  portion  into  prepared  ground,  after  which 
it  is  held  in  place  by  various  methods.  Roots  are 
formed  at  the  break  and  eventually  the  part  so 
treated  may  be  detached  from  the  original  plant, 
and  becomes  itself  a  complete  plant. 

Pemberton  in  "Roses — Then*  History,  Develop- 
ment and  Cultivation,"  gives  very  clear  and  explicit 
instructions  on  layering. 

SUCKERS 

Pemberton's  description  of  suckers  we  quote  as 
follows : 

"Many  of  the  species,  such  as  RUGOSA,  ALPINA, 
SPINOSISSIMA  and  LUCIDA,  together  with  Provence 
and  Damask  hybrids,  etc.,  increase  by  throwing  out 
suckers,  springing  up  at  some  distance  from  the 
parent  plant,  and  forming  roots  at  the  place  where 
they  bend  upwards.  These  rooted  suckers,  after 
being  separated  from  the  plant,  should  be  pruned 
back  to  a  foot  or  even  less,  and  then  treated  as 
ordinary  plants." 

CUTTINGS 

Cuttings  are  slips  taken  from  plants  which,  when 
placed  in  sand  and  soil,  grow  roots  of  their  own  and 
become  in  turn  rose  plants,  giving  the  same  bloom 

2  17 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

as  the  plants  from  which  they  were  cut.  Very  often 
they  are  given  greenhouse  care  and  while  this  is 
not  necessary,  it  obtains,  perhaps,  surer  and  better 
results.  In  experimental  work,  cuttings  have  been 
carried  so  far  that  they  have  been  made  success- 
fully even  from  rose  leaves,  although  this  method 
is  of  no  practical  use.  No  doubt  many  persons 
who  have  followed  us  to  this  point  understand 
cuttings  and  have  employed  them  not  only  in  roses 
but  in  other  plants,  such  as  carnations  and  gera- 
niums, which  are  propagated  almost  entirely  by 
cuttings. 

In  their  proper  place  (the  greenhouse)  cuttings 
as  used  in  rose  culture  may  be  relied  upon,  but 
beyond  this  sphere  their  use  is  open  to  debate,  as, 
in  the  opinion  of  nearly  all  the  best  authorities,  they 
are  not  as  satisfactory  as  budding.  The  main  reason 
for  their  failure  is  that  many  of  our  new  varieties 
are  weak  growers  and  cannot  of  then1  own  accord 
win  the  fight  for  existence,  even  under  favorable 
conditions.  As  conditions  in  our  climate  are  most 
uncertain  only  the  exceptionally  hardy  plant  suc- 
ceeds of  itself  on  its  own  roots. 

Cuttings  are  useful,  however,  when  expense  must 
be  considered  with  certain  of  these  hardy  varieties. 
It  would  be  easy  for  any  one  to  make  cuttings  of  his 
own,  and  this  could  be  successfully  done  with  the 

18 


FIG.  1 
ROSE  CUTTING  READY  FOR  PLANTING 


THE  PROPAGATION  OF  ROSES 

hardier  kinds  of  roses,  thereby  saving  the  expense 
of  purchasing.  If  roses  are  purchased,  we  strongly 
recommend  buying  budded  plants,  as  the  slight 
extra  outlay  would  be  fully  justified. 

While  there  are  many  good  articles  on  cuttings, 
we  consider  that  Pemberton's  is  the  best,  as  it  treats 
of  cuttings  under  glass  and  also  cuttings  in  the  open. 

BUDDING 

In  budding  roses  a  strong  stock  is  secured  and  the 
variety  selected  is  budded  upon  this  stock,  eventually 
becoming  a  part  of  it.  The  actual  operation  of 
budding  is  merely  to  cut  off  the  dormant  bud  from 
the  variety  which  it  is  desired  to  perpetuate  and, 
cutting  a  slit  in  the  bark  of  the  stock,  to  introduce 
the  bud  into  the  same.  When  the  bud  so  trans- 
planted becomes  somewhat  established,  all  growth 
above  it  is  removed  and  the  whole  vitality  of  a 
proved  stock  is  thrown  into  the  bud,  giving  it  the 
nourishment  which  a  tried  constitution  insures. 

In  England  the  two  stocks  most  commonly  used 
are  MANETTI  and  BRIAR.  In  the  case  of  roses  with 
a  preponderance  of  Hybrid  Perpetual  blood  the 
Manetti  stock  is  generally  used;  for  those  contain- 
ing much  Tea  blood  the  Briar  has  been  found  the 
better  stock. 

A  few  growers  in  this  country  are  trying  Japanese 

19 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

Multiflora,  and  with  some  varieties  secure  stronger 
and  better  stock  than  that  grown  from  the  ordinary 
stocks  as  generally  used.  Sometimes  Rugosa  stock 
is  used  for  budding  and  a  very  few  roses  do  quite 
well  on  it,  the  most  noted  of  which  is  Molly  Sharman 
Crawford. 

Undoubtedly  the  ideal  stock  for  all  roses  has  not 
yet  been  discovered,  and  a  great  advance  should  be 
made  in  this  most  important  section  of  rose  culture. 
In  order  to  secure  a  perfect  rose  list,  budding  on 
different  stocks  should  be  tried.  If  cuttings  only  are 
employed,  very  many  roses  will  not  succeed  as  well 
for  outdoor  culture. 

There  are  two  objections  to  budded  roses.  First, 
they  occasionally  break  off  at  the  bud,  but  this  has 
so  seldom  occurred  with  us  in  actual  practice  that 
it  is  not  worth  consideration.  The  second  and  main 
reason  is  that  the  stocks  upon  which  the  roses  are 
budded  throw  up  shoots  of  their  own  below  the  bud, 
which,  if  left,  take  the  entire  nourishment  of  the 
roots  and  check  the  budded  growth  by  crowding  it 
out  and  taking  its  light  and  sunshine. 

These  shoots  from  below  the  bud  may  be  very 
easily  detected  upon  then-  appearance,  because  they 
come  up  from  the  ground  outside  the  plant  and  also 
because  of  their  different  habit  of  growth,  containing, 

as  they  do,  seven  and  sometimes  nine  leaves  on  each 

20 


FIG.  * 

HYBRID  TKA  AM)  MANETTI  FOLIAGE 

At  left,  ordinary  Hybrid  Tea  foliage  showing  five  leaves  on  each  lateral.  On  the  right,  a 
shoot  of  Manetti,  showing  plainly  seven  leaves  on  the  lower  laterals.  Note  also  the  greater 
number  of  thorns  on  the  Manetti 


THE  PROPAGATION  OF  ROSES 

lateral,  instead  of  three  and  five  as  in  most  budded 
varieties.  (Note  illustration.)  The  foliage  is  of  a 
much  lighter  shade  of  green  than  the  shoots  from 
the  bud  itself  and  its  point  of  junction  with  the 
plant  is  below  the  bud.  It  is  very  easily  removed 
by  carefully  digging  up  the  ground,  cutting  it  off 
with  a  knife  at  its  union  with  the  plant  below  the 
bud,  and  rubbing  some  earth  over  the  cut.  In 
addition,  this  main  reason  is  not  a  valid  objection, 
because  it  only  happens  with  about  one  per  cent, 
of  the  budded  plants,  and  can  even  then  be  easily 
detected  and  the  trouble  removed.  To  keep  this 
percentage  down,  roses  must  be  planted  with  the 
bud  two  to  three  inches  below  the  surface  of  the 
soil,  as  hereafter  advocated.  If  planted  less  deeply 
they  will  throw  a  greater  number  of  suckers. 

Very  often  cuttings  have  only  greenhouse  growth 
when  they  are  shipped  to  the  purchaser.  At  best 
they  are  generally  propagated  under  glass  and  have 
not  had  much  outdoor  growth,  whereas  budded 
plants  are  budded  in  the  summer  out-of-doors,  and 
have  even  as  yearlings  a  whole  season's  outside 
growth  before  being  sold. 

We  have  tested  the  own  root  plants,  as  cuttings 
are  called,  and  in  one  particular  instance  made  the 
following  experiment  which  decided  us  once  and  for 

all  as  to  the  merits  of  the  two  methods. 

21 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

One  bed  was  made,  and  over  fifty  roses  on  their 
own  roots  and  fifty  budded  roses  were  planted  in  it 
side  by  side,  all  of  old  and  established  varieties,  and, 
in  the  case  of  the  own  root  plants,  purchased  from  a 
grower  who  advocates  their  use.  At  the  end  of  the 
first  summer  the  difference  was  plainly  apparent 
and  was  strongly  in  favor  of  the  budded  plants. 
At  the  end  of  two  years  there  was  no  possible  doubt 
as  to  the  result;  the  budded  plants  were  far  superior. 
Experiments  with  other  roses  have  endorsed  this 
result,  and  budded  roses  are  recommended  for  all 
outdoor  work  for  the  majority  of  roses  contained  in 
our  main  list,  whether  Hybrid  Teas,  Hybrid  Per- 
petuals,  or  Teas. 

In  the  case  of  climbers  and  some  few  very  strong 
growers  no  doubt  the  own  root  roses  would  give 
good  results,  but  as  a  working  rule  they  cannot  be 
recommended.  In  our  garden  are  budded  roses 
originally  planted  in  the  autumn  of  1900  and  moved 
from  our  first  home  to  our  present  place  in  1907. 
These  plants  are  still  strong  and  healthy  and  of  the 
original  lot  less  than  two  per  cent,  have  died  in  over 
thirteen  years. 

We  know  of  one  case  where  budded  roses  planted 
over  thirty  years  ago  are  still  flourishing,  and  this 
certainly  shows  that  their  length  of  life  is  all  that 
can  be  expected. 

22 


THE  PROPAGATION  OF  ROSES 

In  our  testing  of  new  roses  the  great  majority  has 
been  budded  plants  and  the  percentage  of  deaths  has 
naturally  been  greater  in  these  new  varieties  than  in 
established  kinds.  We  have  annually  imported  from 
three  hundred  to  a  thousand  roses  of  new  varieties,  and 
yet  twenty  plants  a  year  would  cover  all  the  deaths 
even  of  these  new  and  untried  kinds.  Ordinarily, 
from  one  to  two  per  cent,  a  year  would  more  than 
cover  the  deaths  of  varieties  marked  "A"  and  "B" 
hi  our  main  list,  under  the  column  of  "hardiness." 

In  other  branches  of  horticulture  budding  and 
grafting  have  been  tried  with  the  greatest  success; 
for  example,  apples,  pears  and  peaches  give  very 
much  better  results  for  the  reason  that  the  kind  of 
stock  desired  is  supplied.  It  does  seem  that  a  tried 
stock  is  better  than  a  different  stock  with  each  plant, 
viz.,  its  own. 

Undoubtedly  better  stocks  will  be  discovered  for 
certain  roses  which  do  not  do  well  on  the  regular 
stocks;  but  surely  it  is  going  backward  to  grow 
inferior  roses  on  their  own  roots  and  be  satisfied 
with  them,  rather  than  by  experimenting  to  ascer- 
tain the  best  stocks. 

While  all  the  better  known  rose  books  deal  quite 
thoroughly  with  descriptions  of  budding,  the  "Nur- 
sery Book,"  by  L.  H.  Bailey,  should  certainly  be 
read  by  any  one  contemplating  such  work. 

23 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

For  many  strong  growing  plants  and  trees,  where 
perfect  results  are  obtained  on  the  stock  of  the  plant 
itself,  budding  is  not  necessary.  With  strong  grow- 
ing roses  amateurs  can  take  cuttings  easily  and  in- 
crease their  number  of  plants. 

GRAFTING 

Grafting  is  a  modification  of  budding,  and  is  a 
process  which  may  give  as  good  a  result  hi  the  end 
with  some  outdoor  roses;  but  for  the  first  year, 
after  planting  outside,  the  plant  does  not  make  as 
much  progress,  and  our  death-rate  has  been  much 
greater  with  grafted  stock  than  with  budded  plants. 
Unfortunately  grafts  do  not  take  very  well  on  the 
Briar,  therefore  grafters  use  the  Manetti  which,  as 
explained  above,  is  not  the  best  stock  for  Teas  and 
Hybrid  Teas. 

Grafting  is  mostly  used  to  increase  new  varieties 
which,  if  budded,  would  necessarily  have  to  be 
operated  upon  in  the  late  summer,  the  bud  not 
developing  until  the  following  spring;  whereas,  in 
grafting,  a  part  of  the  plant  desired  to  be  propagated 
is  grafted  upon  the  stock  selected  and  growth  at 
once  begins;  this  is  a  very  much  quicker  operation, 
but  not  so  sure  of  success  as  budding  for  outdoor 
roses. 

Grafting  requires  great  skill  and  is  used  to  obtain 

24 


THE  PROPAGATION  OF  ROSES 

quick  results.  Seedlings  to  be  tested  are  often 
grafted  and  a  verdict  quickly  arrived  at.  There  are 
numerous  methods  employed  in  grafting,  but  the 
principle  is  the  same  in  all;  the  variety  required  is 
spliced  on  the  stock  and,  as  in  budding,  the  strength 
of  the  stock  all  goes  into  the  variety  desired.  Graft- 
ing roses  is  usually  done  under  glass  and  requires 
expert  handling,  both  during  the  actual  operation 
and  thereafter. 

The  books  mentioned  for  cuttings  and  budding 
give  the  best  articles  on  grafting,  in  addition  to 
which  " Parsons  on  the  Rose"  contains  good,  clear 
and  explicit  information  on  all  these  subjects. 

NEW  VARIETIES 

New  varieties  of  roses  are  developed  in  two  ways: 
by  sports  and  seedlings. 

SPORTS 

Sports  are  purely  a  matter  of  chance,  and  occur 
when  any  given  variety  shows  a  bloom  or  habit  of 
growth  diff erent  from  the  accepted  plant.  When  this 
occurs  propagation  of  the  wood  by  cuttings,  budding 
or  grafting  establishes  the  new  variety. 

As  illustrations  of  sports,  the  two  following  are 
well  known  and  are  changes  from  the  parent  stock 
in  the  color  of  the  bloom  itself: 

25 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

La  France,  color  silver  rose,  sported  with  Paul  & 
Sons,  near  London,  in  1888,  and  gave  the  Duchess 
of  Albany,  called  dark  La  France,  a  rich,  deep  pink. 
This  was  propagated  and  Duchess  of  Albany  is  now 
a  well-established  variety. 

Camoens,  pale  rose  color  with  the  base  of  the 
petals  yellow,  sported  with  Boytard,  in  1907,  and 
the  new  rose  was  called  Ecarlate,  a  brilliant  scarlet. 

With  these  two  new  varieties  the  habit  of  growth 
of  the  plants  remained  practically  the  same  as  their 
parent  plrnts;  it  was  only  hi  the  color  of  the  rose 
that  the  change  manifested  itself. 

In  the  past  few  years  the  old  rose,  Killarney,  has 
sported  three  tunes,  giving  Killarney  Brilliant,  a 
rose  of  a  deeper  shade  of  pink;  White  Killarney, 
a  rose,  as  the  name  implies,  of  a  beautiful  white; 
and  Double  Killarney,  a  rose  of  greater  substance 
in  petallage  than  the  parent  stock  from  which  it 
sprang.  These  new  roses  will,  no  doubt,  take  their 
places  in  the  list  if  they  do  as  well  as  the  old  estab- 
lished Killarney,  which  there  is  every  reason  to 
believe  they  will  do. 

Before  so  many  hybrids  were  cultivated,  and 
when  roses  were  not  grown  to  as  great  an  extent  as 
now,  sports  were  naturally  less  frequent.  Of  course 
varieties  which  are  crosses,  such  as  the  hybrids  of 
today,  are  very  much  more  likely  to  give  different 

26 


KILLARNEY  BRILLIANT 

HYBRID  TEA 
Alex.  Dickson  and  Sons,  1914.    See  List. 


THE  PROPAGATION  OF  ROSES 

growth  or  different  bloom  than  the  old  varieties, 
which  were  not  so  far  removed  from  the  original 
species. 

Changes  in  habit  of  growth  occur  as  well  as 
changes  in  bloom,  and  a  great  many  of  the  Hybrid 
Teas  have  produced  sports  which  have  much  more 
of  a  climbing  habit  than  the  dwarf  bush  from  which 
such  new  varieties  originated.  The  bloom  in  form 
and  color  is  practically  identical  with  the  parent 
stock,  although  its  period  of  flowering  is  usually 
shorter  and  its  bloom  less  profuse. 

There  is  one  very  interesting  illustration  of  a  rose 
which  sported,  the  new  growth  of  which  when  prop- 
agated reverted  to  the  original  form  of  its  parent 
stock.  Heinrich  Schultheis,  a  Hybrid  Perpetual 
rose  of  deep,  rosy  pink,  sported  with  Paul  &  Sons, 
of  London,  and  produced  Paul's  Early  Blush,  a 
light  silvery  pink.  Again  it  sported  with  Alex. 
Dickson  &  Sons,  in  Ireland,  and  produced  another 
silvery  pink,  known  as  Mrs.  Harkness.  Both  of 
these  new  roses  were  perpetuated  and  became  quite 
popular  before  the  Hybrid  Teas  came  into  general 
notice.  In  the  year  1913  Dr.  Robert  Huey,  of 
Philadelphia,  still  had  plants  of  Paul's  Early  Blush 
and  Mrs.  Harkness.  It  was  remarkable  that  speci- 
mens of  both  these  plants  partially  reverted  to  the 
old  form  of  Heinrich  Schultheis,  throwing  up  shoots 

27 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

with  rose-colored  blooms.  If  these  had  been  prop- 
agated, some  slight  difference  between  them  and 
Heinrich  Schultheis  might  have  been  shown,  but  as 
the  color  and  form  of  these  roses  were  practically 
the  same  as  specimens  of  Heinrich  Schultheis  growing 
in  the  same  garden,  the  experiment  was  not  tried. 

Very  often  sports  occur  which  are  not  noticed 
and  of  which  advantage  is  not  taken.  Recently, 
while  talking  to  the  owner  of  a  rose  garden  we  were 
informed  that  one  of  her  Killarney  bushes  had 
thrown  out  a  red  rose.  There  is  a  possibility  that 
a  plant  might  in  some  way  have  been  misplaced, 
but  the  grower  in  question  was  quite  sure  that  the 
red  rose  was  a  Killarney  and  that  on  one  side  it 
gave  a  flower  of  different  color.  We  told  her  to  watch 
the  plant  very  carefully  the  coming  spring,  as  she 
might  have  the  pleasant  experience  of  being  the 
introducer  of  a  new  variety. 

We  do  not  wish  to  imply  from  this  that  sports 
are  of  frequent  occurrence,  for  in  all  the  years  we 
have  grown  roses,  and  notwithstanding  all  the  care 
we  have  lavished  upon  them,  we  have  never  had  a 
sport  manifest  itself. 

SEEDLINGS 

Seedlings,  as  the  name  implies,  come  from  seeds 
hybridized  either  by  chance  or  by  man's  handiwork. 

28 


REVERSION  OF  MRS.  BARENESS 

Note  deep  rose-colored  blooms  of  Heinrich  Schultheis  on  right 
and  Silver  Pink  of  Mrs.  Harkness  on  left.  Prior  to  1913  this  plant 
gave  nothing  but  the  silver  pink  blooms  of  Mrs.  Harkness. 


FIG.  3 

SEEDLINGS  SHOWING  VARIED  GROWTHS 

On  the  left-hand  side  seedling  of  a  Hybrid  Tea.  On  the  right-hand  side  seedling  of  a 
Wichuraiana.  Both  these  plants  are  of  the  same  age  and  have  received  identical  care.  Note 
different  habit  of  growth  even  at  this  early  stage  in  the  life  of  the  plants 


THE  PROPAGATION  OF  ROSES 

Nearly  all  the  older  rose  growers  gathered  their  heps 
containing  the  seeds  in  the  autumn  of  each  year 
and  planted  great  numbers  of  these  in  nursery  rows, 
hoping  to  secure  new  varieties;  in  this  manner  a 
great  many  of  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals  were  discovered 
and  introduced.  However,  of  late  years  the  com- 
mercial rose  growers  of  Europe  have  hybridized 
different  varieties  of  roses,  and  by  careful  selection 
and  breeding  for  several  generations  are  securing 
their  new  varieties. 

In  Europe  this  work  is  maintained  on  a  very 
large  scale.  Thousands  upon  thousands  of  seedlings 
are  raised  each  year,  and  only  a  very  small  percent- 
age are  of  any  practical  use.  In  this  country  only 
a  few  men  have  achieved  any  great  success  in  intro- 
ducing new  varieties — John  Cook,  of  Baltimore, 
Maryland;  E.  G.  Hill,  of  Richmond,  Indiana;  M.  H. 
Walsh,  of  Woods  Hole,  Massachusetts;  Dr.  Van 
Fleet  and  W.  A.  Manda,  of  New  Jersey.  Cook 
introduced  My  Maryland  and  Radiance,  and  Hill 
has  given  us  quite  a  number  of  good  roses,  the  best 
perhaps  for  outdoor  culture  being  General  Mac- 
Arthur,  which  is  one  of  the  finest  all-round  outdoor 
red  roses  grown  in  America  today.  Walsh,  Manda 
and  Van  Fleet  have  been  particularly  successful  in 
developing  new  Hybrid  Wichuraiana — Walsh's  most 
notable  being  Excelsa,  Hiawatha,  Sweetheart  and 

29 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

Evangeline,  all  excellent  additions  and  ranking  with 
the  best  Wichuraiana  climbers. 

Following  will  be  found  a  tabulated  record  of  the 
breeding  of  the  main  varieties  in  which  the  Hybrid 
Perpetuals  and  Teas  figure.  It  has  not  been  ar- 
ranged at  all  in  conformity  with  the  usual  botanical 
analyses  of  species  and  sub-species,  but  the  informa- 
tion given  has  been  taken  from  such  books  as 
Pemberton's  and  placed  together  so  that  the  history 
of  the  breeding  of  the  different  varieties  may  be 
seen  at  a  glance.  There  are  several  authorities 
who  have  noted  that  the  exact  breeding  of  the 
Hybrid  Perpetuals  is  to  some  extent  problematical. 
The  roses  named  as  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals'  im- 
mediate ancestors  are  generally  accepted  as  such, 
but  some  few  other  varieties  were  used  in  the  gradual 
evolution  of  this  class  from  the  first  Hybrid  Per- 
petual until  the  list  was  completed.  At  the  present 
time  there  are  fewer  Hybrid  Perpetuals  bred,  as  the 
Hybrid  Teas  have  entirely  superseded  them. 

The  work  of  hybridization  is  a  most  interesting 
one,  but  unless  carried  out  on  a  scientific  scale  it  is 
almost  entirely  a  matter  of  chance  whether  or  not 
anything  of  value  may  be  secured.  No  doubt  any 
one  cultivating  roses  to  a  large  extent  would  greatly 
enjoy  trying  to  introduce  a  new  variety  of  his  own 
breeding. 

30 


THE  PROPAGATION  OF  ROSES 


Pernetiana 

Pernet-Ducher, 
1900 


Hybrid  Tea 

Guillot,  1867 


Persian     ) 
Yellow  XLuteae 
Briar     J 


X 


(By  some 
considered 
first  of 
Hybrid 
Perpetuals 


f  Chance  fertiliza- 
tion supposedly 
between ,  China 
and  Red  Four 
Seasons.  1817- 
1890 


V.    1822 


X 


lybrid  China 


Provence 
Brought    to 
England    from 
France  about 
1600 

X 
China 


Later  Noisettes. . . 


Tea— Indica  Odorata 
Introduced  from 
China,  1810-1824. 
First  improved  in 
France  where  the 
climbing  teas  were 
bred 


X 


f  China  Common  Blush 
X 
Musk  Rose 


an 
grower 


American/      (Rosa  Moschata) 
sr,  1817  V. 

31 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

To  hybridize  roses  properly  one  must  have  a 
greenhouse  and  it  is  astonishing  what  results  may 
be  obtained  in  a  very  small  one. 

Books  on  this  subject  which  we  have  found  to 
be  most  interesting  and  practical  are: 

"Plant  Breeding,"  L.  H.  Bailey. 

"Plant  Breeding,  Experiments  of  Nillson  and 
Burbank,"  De  Vries. 

"Plant  Life  and  Evolution,"  Campbell. 

"New  Creations  in  Plant  Life,"  Harwood. 

In  Chapter  IX  will  be  found  a  few  hints  on 
hybridization  taken  from  our  own  experiments. 


n 

THE  BEST  VARIETIES  WITH  THEIR 
CHARACTERISTICS 

THE  rose  has  been  the  Queen  of  Beauty  among 
flowers  as  far  back  as  records  go.  Down  the  ages 
she  has  held  her  position  unchallenged.  India, 
Persia,  China,  Japan,  Greece,  Italy  and  the  rest  of 
Europe  all  pay  her  homage  in  verse  and  story. 
The  rose  is  a  native  of  all  these  countries,  and  those 
of  the  twentieth  century  are  the  gradual  evolution 
from  the  original  types  to  our  almost  perfect  flower. 
At  first  this  evolution  was  slow  and  greatly  due  to 
chance.  Hybridization  was  neither  understood  nor 
practised.  New  roses  came  from  seed,  or  from 
some  new  variety  thrown  out  by  an  old  stock  and 
noticed  and  propagated.  Nature's  friend,  the  bee, 
did  most  of  the  crossing  of  varieties,  but  such  progress 
did  not  suit  rose  growers,  and  from  the  gambling 
methods  of  chance  seeds  systematic  hybridization 
became  the  order  of  the  day.  At  once  the  rose  list 
increased  by  leaps  and  bounds,  for  the  field  was  of 
extreme  fascination  and  boundless  possibilities. 

Without  going  into  the  history  of  all  the  various 
steps,  it  is  sufficient  to  say  that  about  1825  the 

3  33 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

Hybrid  Perpetual  began  to  take  first  place  in  the 
rose  world.  Perfectly  hardy,  of  fine  growth,  having 
a  longer  period  of  bloom  than  its  predecessors  of 
equal  growth  and  beauty,  it  became  more  and  more 
popular,  and  held  its  sway  until  about  1890.  Its  dis- 
advantage was  its  short  period  of  bloom  compared 
with  Teas  and  Chinas  which,  while  very  much 
smaller  in  growth,  were  more  constant  bloomers  and, 
as  a  general  rule,  superior  to  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals 
in  perfume  and  foliage. 

Tea  roses  had  existed  in  England  and  France 
from  early  hi  the  nineteenth  century,  and  yet 
after  the  cross  of  the  Damask  and  Hybrid  China, 
which  gave  the  rose  world  the  first  Hybrid  Per- 
petual, it  was  not  until  1867  that  the  first  cross  of 
merit  between  the  Teas  and  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals 
made  its  appearance.  At  once  the  rose  world  ob- 
tained what  it  had  so  long  desired,  combining  in  a 
seedling  the  best  of  both  parents,  a  rose  as  hardy,  or 
nearly  as  hardy  as  the  Hybrid  Perpetual — a  rose 
that  bloomed  practically  as  often  as  the  Tea  and 
that  had  fine  foliage  and  perfume.  This  rose,  the 
first  of  the  great  army  of  Hybrid  Teas  which  was  to 
follow,  was  La  France,  introduced  by  Guillot  fils, 
its  parents  being  Madame  Victor  Verdier  and 
Madame  Bravy.  Madame  Victor  Verdier  was  a 
Hybrid  Perpetual,  introduced  by  E.  Verdier  in  1863, 

34 


BEST  VARIETIES  WITH  CHARACTERISTICS 

and  Madame  Bravy  was  a  Tea  raised  by  Guillot, 
of  Pont  Cherin,  in  1848. 

The  next  Hybrid  Tea  that  appeared  and  stood 
the  test  of  time  was  Reine  Marie  Henriette,  raised 
by  Levet,  in  1878,  from  Madame  Berard  (of  Gloire 
de  Dijon)  and  General  Jacqueminot;  the  first  of 
Tea  blood,  and  the  second  a  Hybrid  Perpetual. 
This  rose  is  listed  in  English  catalogues  of  today  in 
the  climbing  section  as  a  Hybrid  Tea,  although 
still  considered  by  some  as  a  Tea,  and  so  listed  hi 
the  Dutch  Rozennaamlijst  of  1909. 

After  the  introduction  of  these  two  roses,  La 
France  and  Reine  Marie  Henriette,  the  work  went 
on  still  further  and  cross  breedings  of  hybrids 
obtained  by  hybridization  soon  began  to  swell  the 
list  of  new  roses. 

Roses  so  obtained  are  known  as  pedigree  roses 
and  very  seldom  is  their  breeding  given,  although 
it  seems  an  open  secret  that  three  generations  are 
often  required  before  a  new  rose  of  merit  is  secured. 
The  breeders  and  introducers  of  new  roses  naturally 
guard  their  breeding  secrets  with  the  greatest  care, 
and  little  or  no  information  as  to  their  special  meth- 
ods is  obtainable.  This  secrecy  is  really  eminently 
proper,  as  it  has  taken  years  of  patient  effort,  care, 
and  great  expense  to  bring  out  new  varieties.  It  is 
the  breeders'  stock  in  trade;  they  are  entitled  to 

35 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

hold  the  information  they  have  acquired,  and  due 
credit  should  be  given  them  for  the  wonderful  strides 
they  have  made  towards  the  perfect  rose  list. 

While  it  is  impossible,  therefore,  to  give  the 
breeding  of  the  various  pedigree  roses,  nevertheless 
a  few  examples  of  roses  discovered  by  hybridization 
and  cross  breeding  of  one  generation  may  be  of 
interest. 

In  looking  over  the  obtainable  data  it  is  at  once 
noted  that  certain  roses  seem  to  stand  out  as  having 
been  the  most  successful  parents,  and  of  these 
Caroline  Testout  ranks  among  the  first;  bred  with 
Souv.  deM.  Verdier,  Aimee  Cochet  was  ob tamed; 
with  Merveille  de  Lyon,  Frau  Karl  Druschki  was 
obtained;  with  Fisher  Holmes,  George  Laing  Paul 
was  obtained;  with  Viscountess  Folkstone,  Konigin 
Carola  was  obtained;  with  Bridesmaid,  La  Detroit 
was  obtained;  with  Ferdinand  Jamin,  Madame 
Edme"e  Metz  was  obtained. 

In  addition  to  this  Caroline  Testout  has  produced 
quite  a  number  of  sports,  most  noted  of  which  are 
Admiral  Dewey  and  Mrs.  Longworth. 

Another  rose  which  stands  out  prominently  is 
Lady  Mary  Fitzwilliam,  a  pedigree  rose  introduced 
in  1882,  and  one  of  the  parents  of  Caroline  Testout. 
In  1894  this  rose  with  Dr.  Grill  produced  Antoine 
Revoire,  a  rose  that  is  holding  its  own  among  the 

36 


BEST  VARIETIES  WITH  CHARACTERISTICS 

newer  Hybrid  Teas  of  today,  and  is  still  by  far  the 
best  rose  of  its  shade  in  this  country.  Crossed  with 
La  France,  in  1894,  Lady  Mary  Fitzwilliam  gave 
Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant  (syn.  Belle  Siebrecht),  a  rose  still 
popular;  Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria  resulted  when 
she  was  crossed  with  Coquette  de  Lyon.  Kaiserin 
Augusta  Victoria  is  unique  in  color  and  must  be 
included  hi  any  large  collection. 

Ellwanger's  chapter  on  "Seed  Parents  of  Leading 
Roses,"  in  his  book  "The  Rose,"  gives  some  very 
interesting  data  on  this  subject. 

About  1890,  owing  to  its  longer  period  of  bloom, 
the  Hybrid  Tea  had  pushed  the  Hybrid  Perpetual 
out  of  first  place  in  popularity,  and  from  that  tune 
on  has  held  sway  as  the  premier  class.  While  at 
first  much  was  to  be  desired  in  some  of  the  Hybrid 
Teas,  gradually  they  have  become  unproved,  until 
today  there  is  no  question  about  their  being  the 
best  outdoor  garden  variety;  yet,  hi  so  deciding  on 
them  as  the  most  useful  class,  many  must  be  dis- 
carded as  worthless  in  the  climate  of  the  Middle 
Atlantic  States.  The  best  of  the  Teas  and  the  Hybrid 
Perpetuals,  and  also  others,  must  be  included  hi  a 
list  which  purports  to  include  the  best  outdoor 
roses. 

In  addition  to  the  hardy  growth  and  long  period 
of  bloom  common  to  the  best  of  the  Hybrid  Teas, 

37 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

many  of  them  have  the  long  double  bud  on  the  stiff 
erect  stem  so  much  desired  in  roses,  and  the  best 
varieties  open  slowly  and  keep  well  after  being  cut; 
therefore  in  the  mam  list  which  follows  we  have 
put  the  best  of  the  Hybrid  Teas  and  have  also 
included  other  roses  which  come  up  to  a  certain 
standard.  In  addition  to  these  there  are  a  great 
many  which  for  large  gardens  should  not  be  over- 
looked, some  of  them  among  the  Perpetuals  and 
Teas,  and  we  have  also  added  these  varieties  to 
our  main  list. 

Unfortunately,  it  is  almost  impossible  to  find 
many  roses  absolutely  perfect  for  our  climate.  The 
winters  are  more  severe  and  the  summers  hotter 
than  the  conditions  to  which  imported  roses  and 
their  forbears  have  been  accustomed,  so  that  many 
of  the  roses  which  flourish  in  Europe  are  worthless 
with  us. 

The  main  classes  include  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals, 
Hybrid  Teas  and  Teas,  and  are  grown  in  two  ways, 
as  dwarfs  and  as  standards.  Standards  differ  from 
dwarfs  or  bushes  (ordinary  form),  in  that  they  are 
budded  or  grafted  on  strong  briar  and  other  stocks 
from  two  and  one-half  to  four  feet  from  the  ground. 
They  are  most  attractive  and  some  are  more  easily 
reached  than  the  dwarfs,  as  the  blooms  grow  about 
the  level  of  the  eye,  while  all  of  them  are  adapted 


38 


BEST  VARIETIES  WITH  CHARACTERISTICS 

to  formal  gardens  and  landscape  work.  However, 
we  cannot  recommend  them  unless  absolute  winter 
protection  is  given,  and  this  is  best  accomplished  by 
placing  boards  around  the  plant,  encasing  it  from 
the  ground  to  above  the  bud  and  rilling  in  with 
earth. 

In  the  case  of  some  of  the  climbers,  which  are 
used  as  standards,  an  attractive  effect  is  produced 
by  allowing  the  trailing  shoots  of  such  plants  to 
grow  downwards,  more  or  less  like  the  weeping 
willow  tree,  and  these  are  called  weeping  standards, 
otherwise  they  are  the  same  as  the  regular  standard. 
In  the  case  of  some  of  the  Teas,  which  are  grown 
very  close  to  the  ground  in  this  way,  they  can  be 
more  thoroughly  protected  in  cold  winters  than  they 
could  be  if  grown  as  the  usual  standard.  It  is  be- 
lieved that  Teas  are  especially  prolific  when  grown 
in  this  manner.  One  well  known  writer  states  that 
he  has  seen  such  a  Tea  with  seventy-five  blooms  on 
it  at  one  time. 

Standards  require  very  much  more  room  than 
dwarfs,  and  this  is  another  reason  why  they  are  not 
planted  so  extensively.  If  used  we  would  strongly 
recommend  for  them  the  roses  contained  in  our 
main  list.  Dwarfs  are  budded  close  to  the  root  of 
the  stock  and  the  bud  is  planted  below  the  ground 
level,  hence  they  are  hardier  and  much  more  easily 

39 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

handled  in  winter  than  standards.  In  our  experi- 
ments with  standards  we  have  found  them  to  be 
most  uncertain,  sometimes  they  last  for  several 
years  and  again  fully  fifty  per  cent.  die.  An  average 
of  ten  per  cent,  would  be  a  conservative  estimate 
for  winter  loss,  unless  most  thorough  winter  pro- 
tection was  given. 

Every  year  the  commercial  rose  growers  in  England 
and  the  Continent  bring  out  their  new  varieties; 
before  a  satisfactory  verdict  can  be  given  as  to  their 
adaptability  to  this  country  they  must  be  tried  for 
at  least  two  years.  In  many  cases  new  varieties 
are  shipped  as  such  small  grafted  plants  that  for 
the  first  year  it  is  almost  impossible  to  test  them 
properly,  and  a  year  later  larger  plants  must  be 
tried  again.  Very  probably  these  small  plants 
would  do  well  abroad,  but  here  they  run  the  risk 
of  being  passed  upon  as  worthless  when  many  may 
be  first-class  varieties. 

Owing  to  the  difference  in  our  climate,  even  the 
color  of  imported  roses  may  vary  somewhat  from 
the  European  catalogued  description.  The  average 
rose  is  generally  somewhat  lighter  in  color,  owing  to 
our  extreme  heat  in  summer.  Killarney  is  an  excep- 
tion which  proves  this  rule.  This  rose  is  catalogued 
in  the  European  lists  as  "Flesh-shaded  white,  suf- 
fused pale  pink";  in  this  country  it  is  a  solid  light 


40 


BEST  VARIETIES  WITH  CHARACTERISTICS 

pink,  the  shade  depending  on  the  sunlight,  being 
deeper  in  bright,  hot  weather.  In  the  early  spring 
and  in  the  autumn  the  color  of  most  roses  with  us 
is  darker  than  in  the  summer,  some  varieties  that 
usually  have  a  slight  yellow  tint  becoming  almost 
pink  under  frosty  nights  and  warm  days.  Mainly 
for  the  first  reason  given  it  is  a  lottery  for  the  aver- 
age rose  grower  to  order  new  varieties;  the  greater 
part  will  prove  utter  disappointments,  a  waste  of 
money,  space,  time  and  care,  and  the  catalogued 
description  must  be  more  than  discounted. 

This  book  should  guide  the  American  purchaser 
to  order  those  roses  which  will  give  him  the  best 
results.  To  secure  a  perfect  list  of  such  roses,  we 
have  carefully  tested  every  variety  found  in  the 
best  of  European  catalogues,  and  in  our  list  at  the 
end  of  this  chapter  there  has  been  included  every 
variety  which  has  come  up  to  a  certain  standard. 
Those  which  we  have  excluded  have  not  proved 
successful  after  a  test  in  which  all  had  the  same 
chance. 

SIXTEEN  BEST  ALL-ROUND  ROSES 

In  order  to  be  of  the  greatest  practical  aid  to  the 
home  rose  grower  we  have  made  a  selection  of  the 
sixteen  roses  which  have  proved  by  our  tests  to  be 
the  best  adapted  in  beauty  and  usefulness  to  outdoor 

41 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

growing.  A  color-plate  with  an  accompanying  full 
description  is  given  of  each  of  these  roses. 

This  selection  includes  one  white,  one  white  with 
center  shaded  primrose  or  lightest  blush,  two  flesh- 
colored — one  shaded  peach  to  lilac  and  the  other 
shaded  shell  pink. 

Four  pinks:  one  light  pink,  one  dark  to  imperial 
pink,  one  flesh  to  light  salmon  pink,  and  one  silver 
pink  to  dark  salmon — sometimes  coral  pink. 

Four  shades  of  red:  crimson  cerise,  bright  crim- 
son, brilliant  carmine  and  scarlet  crimson. 

Four  shades  of  yellow :  light  yellow,  yellow-orange, 
coppery  rose  and  reddish  bronze. 

In  this  following  selection  of  sixteen  roses  we  have 
included  the  best  rose  of  each  main  shade.  Their 
qualities  have  been  noted  in  the  description  which 
accompanies  them;  there  is  no  doubt,  from  our 
experiments,  that  these  are  the  best  outdoor  roses 
for  our  climate  and  will  give  absolute  satisfaction. 
We  have  given  this  list  and  their  descriptions  before 
coming  to  the  general  list  because  we  particularly 
wish  to  emphasize  their  value. 

There  are  roses  in  the  mam  list  under  No.  2 
heading  which  are  better  than  some  in  the  above 
selection,  but  they  are  of  different  shades.  The 
best  rose  of  each  main  color  is  the  one  specified  in 
this  sixteen. 

42 


1.  WHITE 

FRAU  KARL  DRUSCHKI.  LAMBERT;  1900.  HYBRID  PER- 
PETUAL. (MERVEILLE  DB  LYON  X  CAROLINE  TESTOUT) 
A  very  strong  growing  rose,  foliage  light  solid  green;  long,  erect 
stem;  long,  pointed  bud,  opening  into  a  perfect  flower  of  great 
substance  and  of  great  lasting  quality  (color,  white — sometimes 
palest  pink  blush  at  center) ;  in  good  quantity  in  June,  shy  in  sum- 
mer, moderately  in  autumn.  Farther  north  it  naturally  comes  into 
bloom  later  and,  as  the  season  of  bloom  is  shorter,  blooms  longer 
for  one  period  only.  Farther  south  blooms  earlier  and  later,  with 
less  summer  bloom.  Plant  30  inches  center  to  center.  Prune  to  6 
eyes  (buds). 


2.  WHITE— CENTER  SHADED  PRIMROSE  OR  LIGHTEST 
BLUSH— VARIES 
MADAME  JULES  BOXJCHE.     CKOIBIEB  &  FILS;  1911.     HYBRID 

TEA 

Of  medium  to  large  growth,  very  hardy;  good  to  very  good  foliage, 
long,  erect  stem;  long  bud  which  develops  into  a  medium-sized  flower 
of  wonderful  substance  and  great  lasting  qualities.  A  splendid 
bloomer  in  spring,  good  in  summer  and  remarkably  good  in  fall. 
The  best  new  rose  since  Duchess  of  Wellington  and  by  all  means 
the  best  white  to  blush  rose.  Plant  18  inches  center  to  center. 
Prune  to  5  eyes  (buds). 


MADAME  JULES  BOUCHE    Hybrid  Tea 
CROIBIEK  &  FILS  1011 


3.  FLESH  TO  CREAM— YELLOW  PEACH  CENTER,  SOME- 
TIMES WITH  LILAC  SHADING 

ANTOINE  REVOIRE.     PERNET-DUCHEB;  1896.     HYBSID  TEA. 

(DR.  GRILL  X  LADY  FITZWILLIAM) 

Of  medium  growth,  very  hardy;  foliage  blue-green  leathery,  long 
erect  stem;  beautiful  bud,  opening  into  medium  to  large  bloom  of 
gardenia  form,  fine  substance,  many  petals,  lasts  very  well  after 
cutting.  Blooms  prolifically  in  June,  quite  well  in  summer,  quite 
well  in  autumn.  A  rose  which  has  stood  as  the  best  of  this  shade 
since  its  production.  Plant  15  inches  center  to  center.  Prune  to  4 
eyes  (buds). 


4.  SILVER  FLESH  TO  SHELL  PINK 

ELLEN  WILMOT.  BERNAIX;  1898.  HYBRID  TEA 
Medium  to  strong  growth,  very  hardy;  splendid  leathery  green 
foliage;  quite  a  good  erect  stem,  opening  into  a  bloom  of  medium 
size;  very  fine  bloomer  in  spring,  good  to  very  good  in  summer  and 
autumn;  this  rose  is  a  stronger  grower  and  has  a  better  stem  than 
Souv.  du  President  Carnot  although  not  quite  as  beautiful  in  bud 
form,  but  is  placed  first  on  account  of  its  reliability  as  a  summer 
and  autumn  bloomer  and  its  better  growth  and  foliage.  Plant  18 
inches  center  to  center.  Prune  to  4  eyes  (buds). 


5.  LIGHT  PINK 

KlLLARNEY.      DlCKSON  &  SONS)  1898.      HYBRID  TEA 

Medium  to  large  growth,  very  hardy;  foliage  liable  to  mildew  in 
wet  seasons  towards  autumn,  but  Killarney  has  the  red  tea  foliage, 
especially  in  young  growth,  which  is  so  beautiful  in  many  teas; 
long,  fairly  erect  stem,  beautiful  pointed  bud,  not  of  great  petallage 
but  very  beautiful,  although  not  a  very  long  keeper;  a  wonderful 
bloomer  from  frost  to  frost.  Plant  18  inches  center  to  center. 
Prune  to  5  eyes  (buds). 


6.  IMPERIAL  PINK 

JONKHEER  J.  L.  MOCK.      LEENDERSJ   1909.      HYBRID  TEA 

Very  large  growth  and  very  hardy;  only  fair  foliage,  extremely  long 
stems;  long  bud  and  large  bloom  of  great  substance;  not  a  prolific 
but,  considering  the  length  of  stems,  a  fine  bloomer  from  frost 
to  frost  and  a  long  keeper.  Absolutely  necessary  to  secure  in  two- 
year-old  plants;  yearlings  do  not  appear  to  transplant  with  any 
success.  Plant  20  inches  center  to  center.  Prune  to  5  eyes  (buds). 


7.  SILVER  FLESH  TO  PEARL  SALMON  PINK  CENTER 
MME  LEON  PAIN.     GUILLOT;  1904.     (CAROLINE  TESTOUT  X 
Soxrv.  DE  CATHARINE  GUILLOT) 

Hybrid  Tea.  Of  medium  to  large  growth,  very  hardy;  foliage  per- 
fect leathery  green  to  reddish  tea;  long,  erect  stem;  medium  to  large 
bud,  opening  into  a  bloom  of  substance,  full,  double,  and  of  good 
lasting  qualities;  blooms  very  well  in  spring,  summer  and  autumn. 
This  is  the  best  of  the  lightest  salmon  pinks  and  a  fine,  reliable, 
all-round  rose.  Mme.  Segond  Weber  is  a  more  brilliant  salmon 
than  Mme.  Leon  Pain  and  of  more  perfect  form,  but  not  as  reliable 
a  bloomer  in  the  summer  and  autumn.  Plant  18  inches  center  to 
center.  Prune  to  5  eyes  (buds). 

[The  rose  at  the  left  is  La  Detroit,  a  fair  rose  but  inferior  to 
the  newer  pinks.] 


8.  TWO-SHADED  PINK 

Silver  Pink  to  Dark  Salmon,  Sometimes  Approaching  Coral 
Rose;  Outside  of  Petals  Dark  Shade,  Inside,  Silver  Pink 
LADY  ALICE  STANLEY.     MCGREDY;  1909.     HYBRID  TEA 
Medium  to  large  growth;  very  hardy  and  very  fair  foliage;  long,  stiff 
stem;  large  bloom  of  great  substance  and  petallage;  a  fine  keeper; 
blooms  most  prolifically  in  spring,  and  quite  well  in  summer  and 
autumn.    Undoubtedly  a  great  rose  and  the  best  of  the  solid  pinks 
of  two  shades,  of  which  Lady  Faire  and  Mrs.  Hill  were  the  fore- 
runners.   Plant  18  inches  center  to  center.    Prune  to  5  eyes  (buds). 


9.  WARM  CRIMSON  CERISE-EDGED  PINK 

ROBERT  HUEY.  DICKSON  &  SONS;  1911.  HYBRID  TEA 
Medium  to  large  growth,  very  hardy;  very  good  foliage,  light  green 
in  color;  fairly  long,  erect  steins;  beautiful  long,  pointed  bud;  a 
medium  to  large  bloom  of  great  substance  and  petallage;  blooms 
well  in  the  spring  and  does  remarkably  well  in  extremely  hot  summer 
weather;  a  good  keeper  but  only  a  fair  autumn  bloomer.  Plant 
18  inches  center  to  center.  Prune  to  5  eyes  (buds). 


10.  BRIGHT  CRIMSON 

GENERAL  MACARTHUR.     HILL;  1905.    HYBRID  TEA.     (IN- 
TRODUCED BY  AN  AMERICAN  GROWER) 

Medium  to  large  growth,  very  hardy;  fine  leathery  foliage,  good 
stems;  fairly  long  bud,  opening  into  medium-sized  bloom  of  fair 
substance;  a  very  fine  keeper  and  good  bloomer  from  frost  to  frost. 
Not  as  large  as  Huey  or  Carle.  Plant  18  inches  center  to  center. 
Prune  to  5  eyes  (buds). 


11.  BRILLIANT  CARMINE 

LAURENT  CARLE.  PERNET-DUCHER;  1908.  HYBRID  TEA 
Medium  growth,  very  hardy;  fairly  long,  erect  stem,  good  foliage, 
long,  pointed  bud;  medium  to  large  flower  of  good  substance  and 
beauty.  Blooms  well  in  the  spring,  fairly  well  in  the  summer,  and 
quite  well  in  the  autumn.  Plant  18  inches  center  to  center.  Prune 
to  4  eyes  (buds). 


12.  SCARLET  CRIMSON 

GRUSS    AN    TEPLITZ.      GESCHWIND;    1897.      HYBRID    TEA. 
(USUALLY  CLASSED  WITH  THE  CLIMBING  SECTION).    (PAXTON 
X  FELLEMBERG)  X  (PAPAGONTIER  X  GLOIREDES  ROSOMANES) 
Very  large  growth,  extremely  hardy;  good  foliage,  short  stems  (often 
weak) ;  bloom,  which  opens  flat,  nevertheless  one  of  the  best  bloom- 
ing roses  existing  today;  a  mass  of  color  from  spring  till  after  frost; 
while  not  of  perfect  form  for  cutting  still  such  a  profuse  and  constant 
bloomer  that  it  is  included  in  this  first  list.     Plant  27  niches  center 
to  center.    Prune  lightly.     Cut  out  dead  wood. 


13.  LIGHT  SULPHUR  YELLOW 

HARRY  KIRK.  DICKSON  &  SONS;  1907.  TEA 
Classed  as  a  Tea  but  with  the  habits  of  the  largest  Hybrid  Teas; 
large  growth,  very  hardy;  fine  foliage,  long  stem;  long,  pointed  bud, 
which  opens  into  a  bloom  of  medium  to  large  size,  but  not  double, 
and  which  does  not  last  well;  should  be  cut  before  the  dew  is  off,  or 
late  in  the  afternoon  before  the  bud  is  open.  A  great  bloomer, 
splendid  in  spring,  good  in  summer  and  in  autumn.  Plant  20  inches 
center  to  center.  Prune  to  5  eyes  (buds). 


14.  YELLOW  TO  ORANGE 

DUCHESS  OF  WELLINGTON.     DICKSON&  SONS;  1909.    HYBRID 

TEA 

Medium  to  large  growth,  very  hardy;  fine  foliage,  fairly  long  erect 
stem;  long,  pointed  bud,  medium  to  large  flower,  but  not  of  great 
petallage;  only  fair  keeper  but  a  wonderful  bloomer  from  frost  to 
frost;  the  best  yellow  rose  beyond  all  question.  Plant  18  inches 
center  to  center.  Prune  to  5  eyes  (buds). 


15.  COPPERY   ROSE— OVERSPREAD   WITH   GOLDEN 

YELLOW 

This  is  Dicksons'  description.  With  us,  particularly  in  the 
late  spring  and  summer,  the  rose  verges  more  from  cream  to 
orange-salmon.  In  the  autumn  it  more  nearly  approaches 
Dicksons'  description. 

BETTT.  DICKSON  &  SONS;  1905.  HYBRID  TEA 
Large  growth,  good  foliage;  very  hardy,  long  stem,  but  not  always 
erect;  long,  pointed  bud;  a  poor  keeper;  opens  quickly  and  with  no 
great  petallage;  its  blooming  qualities,  wonderful  in  spring  and 
autumn,  good  in  summer,  secure  it  a  place  in  the  first  list.  Plant 
18  inches  center  to  center.  Prune  to  5  eyes  (buds). 


16.  COPPERY  SALMON— REDDISH  BRONZE 

MRS.  A.  R.   WADDELL.     PERNET-DUCHER;   1908.     HYBRID 

TEA 

Medium  spreading  growth,  fine  foliage;  very  hardy,  fair  stem;  pretty 
bud,  but  opens  somewhat  single;  in  summer  not  a  good  keeper. 
Undoubtedly  the  best  of  its  color,  and  a  wonderful  bloomer  in  spring, 
moderate  in  summer  and  very  good  in  autumn.  Plant  18  inches 
center  to  center.  Prune  to  4  eyes  (buds). 


BEST  VARIETIES  WITH  CHARACTERISTICS 

A  MAIN  LIST  OF  ROSES 

In  the  main  list  the  numbers  1,  2  and  3  appear  in 
column  marked  "List." 

No.  1  is  for  the  sixteen  roses  which  have  just 
been  described,  and  they  should  be  sufficient  for 
any  one  desiring  from  twelve  to  fifty  roses. 

The  roses  listed  No.  2  are  those  which  have  stood 
the  tests  very  well;  they  have  surpassed  the  great 
main  body  of  varieties  which  have  been  discarded 
as  not  coming  up  to  the  requisite  standard.  No.  2 
is  a  list  of  honor  and  is  for  good,  all-round  roses, 
with  the  faults  plainly  noted  under  the  various 
headings.  Before  putting  these  roses  in  this  No.  2 
list  hundreds  of  roses  have  been  carefully  tested, 
and  these  are  the  ones  which  have  been  found  most 
suitable  for  our  climate  and  conditions  as  all-round 
varieties. 

For  a  person  wishing  a  greater  variety  of  all- 
round  roses  than  is  included  in  the  No.  1  list,  No.  2 
is  recommended.  If  one  prefers  more  pink  roses,  for 
instance,  than  the  four  named  in  the  first  list,  other 
pink  roses  under  No.  2  will  supply  the  want. 

The  roses  listed  No.  3  are  special  roses  and  should 
be  mainly  ordered  either  for  large  gardens  or  col- 
lections, or  by  persons  thoroughly  understanding 
their  failings,  all  of  which  are  noted  under  the 
various  headings. 

43 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

It  would  be  easy  to  make  list  No.  3  very  much 
larger;  for  instance,  in  the  case  of  the  single  Irish 
roses,  we  have  included  in  this  list  only  the  best 
of  this  type.  If  one  of  these  roses  is  tried,  and  the 
person  so  experimenting  wishes  more,  it  is  very 
easy  for  him  to  order  others.  Originally  our  list 
was  very  much  larger,  but  we  have  cut  it  down  on 
the  theory  that  we  wish  every  rose  contained  therein 
to  be  the  very  best  of  its  kind,  or  to  have  some 
special  merit.  For  this  reason  there  may  be  some 
few  roses  which  it  will  be  thought  we  should  have 
included,  and,  no  doubt,  we  could  have  included 
more  which  might  do  well  under  certain  conditions; 
but  for  average  conditions,  and  particularly  for  the 
amateur  rose  grower,  who  does  not  wish  a  very 
large  number  of  roses,  this  list  will  be  found  more 
than  sufficient,  and  this  book  is  especially  written 
for  such  persons. 

All  the  best  Hybrid  Perpetuals  are  included  in  the 
list  No.  3,  the  only  Hybrid  Perpetual  being  put  in 
Nos.  1  or  2  being  Frau  Karl  Druschki.  No  other 
Hybrid  Perpetual  will  compare  with  Druschki  as  a 
bloomer,  for,  as  a  rule,  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals 
bloom  only  in  June  for  a  short  season.  It  is  true 
that  occasionally  a  flower  or  two  will  make  its 
appearance  in  the  autumn,  but  these  blooms  can- 
not be  counted  upon. 

44 


BEST  VARIETIES  WITH  CHARACTERISTICS 

In  list  No.  3  we  have  also  included  some  weak- 
growing  roses  which  have  beautiful  blooms;  they 
are  not  perfectly  hardy  and,  in  addition,  are  weak 
growers,  but  are  so  distinct  in  the  beauty  of  their 
bloom  that  they  should  be  included  in  any  large 
collection,  particularly  by  a  person  understanding 
their  failings.  As  an  example  of  these  roses  Joseph 
Hill  is  perhaps  the  best  known.  It  is  a  wonderful 
flower,  of  distinct  and  beautiful  coloring,  with 
nothing  of  its  shade  to  compare  with  it,  but  it  is 
such  a  weak  grower  that  it  would  be  hardly  right 
to  include  it  in  list  No.  2;  to  place  it  in  list  No.  1 
would  be  doing  an  injustice  to  those  who  wish  a 
good  all-round  rose,  such  as  list  No.  1  is  designed 
to  contain.  Also  hi  list  No.  3  are  placed  some 
single  roses  which,  while  good  bloomers  and  of 
robust  habit,  are  so  much  below  the  average  in  the 
form  of  their  blooms  that  they  should  not  be  in- 
cluded in  any  list  but  No.  3. 

It  has  been  aimed  to  cover,  under  the  columns  of 
the  main  list,  the  principal  points  of  each  rose. 
Under  the  greater  number  of  headings  the  letters 

"A"— very  good,     "C"— fair,      "X"— failure, 

"B"— good,  "D"— poor, 

are  used  to  describe  each  variety. 

Under  the  heading  "Form  of  Rose"  the  abbrevia- 
tion "Si"  indicates  that  the  rose  is  single. 

45 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

Under  the  heading  "Size  of  Bloom"  "L"— large, 
"M"— medium,  "S"— small. 

It  will  be  readily  understood  that  under  "Growth," 
for  example,  all  the  roses  marked  "A"  are  not  ab- 
solutely the  same  hi  growth,  but  for  all  practical 
purposes  they  form  an  approximate  class  under 
"A,"  all  of  which  would  come  up  to  a  certain  stand- 
ard. This  principle  applies  to  all  headings.  It 
would  be  impossible,  without  using  very  many  more 
classes,  to  define  the  small  differences  existing 
between  the  roses  marked  "A,"  "B,"  "C"  or  UD," 
but  for  all  approximate  purposes,  and  for  general 
information,  each  letter  or  letters  will  divide  the 
varieties  into  a  class  of  nearly  the  same  merit  under 
each  particular  heading.  In  order  to  secure  the  data 
for  so  classifying  each  rose,  under  the  various  head- 
ings, careful  notes  have  been  taken  for  years,  and 
the  average  of  each  rose  so  tested  has  been  noted. 
As  an  example,  Killarney,  in  list  No.  1,  is  marked 
"C"  as  to  foliage.  The  reason  for  this  is  that  in 
very  damp  weather  of  long  duration  the  foliage  of 
Killarney  is  more  liable  to  mildew  than  that  of  many 
varieties,  or  if  Killarney  is  watered  late  in  the  day 
mildew  occurs.  In  ordinary  seasons,  and  with  proper 
watering  and  other  care,  the  foliage  of  Killarney 
will  do  well,  but  mildew  is  a  failing  of  this  very  good, 
all-round  rose  and  should  be  noted. 

46 


BEST  VARIETIES  WITH  CHARACTERISTICS 

Under  size  of  bloom  all  the  roses  under  "M" 
(which  stands  for  medium)  could  not  be  expected 
to  be  of  a  uniform  size,  but  approximately  they  are 
the  same.  Concerning  the  blooming,  as  designated 
by  the  letters,  it  will  be  appreciated  that,  under 
certain  conditions,  roses  will  exceed  or  fall  below  the 
averages  which  we  have  decided  upon.  It  would  be 
impossible  to  give  a  list  all  the  subdivisions  of 
which  would  be  absolutely  correct  under  any  and 
all  conditions;  but  for  all  average  working  condi- 
tions our  list  will  be  found  to  be  accurate,  and  by 
going  over  the  same  carefully,  the  reader  should  be 
able  to  decide  just  exactly  what  he  may  expect 
from  any  given  rose. 

The  roses  marked  "A"  for  hardiness  indicate 
that  as  a  rule  the  wood  does  not  winter  kill  enough 
to  prevent  their  being  pruned  as  recommended. 
Among  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals,  the  canes  in  the 
spring  will  be  less  winter  killed  than  the  Hybrid 
Teas;  but  as  you  are  pruning  to  at  most  six  or 
seven  eyes  in  the  very  strongest  of  the  Hybrid  Teas, 
and  as  low  down  as  two  or  three  eyes,  you  will  find 
that  in  the  varieties  marked  "A,"  as  to  hardiness, 
the  wood  will  be  living  beyond  this  point;  and, 
therefore,  while  in  reality  the  Hybrid  Teas  marked 
"A"  are  not  as  hardy  in  the  amount  of  wood  left 
as  the  Perpetuals,  nevertheless  we  mark  them 

47 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

"A"  because  the  plants  do  not  die,  and,  in  addition, 
because  there  is  enough  wood  for  us  to  cut  to  the 
proper  number  of  buds. 

Those  marked  "B"  are  roses  which  are  likely  to 
kill  back  below  the  proper  pruning  mark,  and  some- 
tunes  show  a  death  here  and  there,  while  those 
marked  "C"  are  roses  among  which  you  may  expect 
to  find  a  few  deaths  and  more  whiter  killing. 

We  did  not  put  any  roses  in  the  list  which  were 
down  as  low  as  "D"  for  hardiness.  We  consider 
hardiness  of  the  first  moment  and  do  not  wish  to 
include  any  roses  which  are  not  fairly  hardy. 
Roughly  speaking,  under  "A"  you  should  not  lose 
more  than  one  per  cent,  from  winter  killing;  under 
"B"  from  two  to  three  per  cent.,  and  under  "C" 
from  five  to  ten  per  cent. 

During  the  past  winter  with  a  new  shipment  of 
nearly  one  thousand  roses,  chiefly  new  varieties, 
in  addition  to  our  old  plants,  we  have  lost  in  our 
entire  rose  garden  not  more  than  twenty  plants,  or 
about  one  per  cent.,  and  some  of  the  plants  were 
very  small  and  weak  when  set  out.  We  consider 
this  immunity  from  deaths  due  largely  to  the  fact 
that  we  hill  up  our  roses  every  autumn  after  the 
heavy  frosts  have  set  in,  as  described  in  the  chap- 
ter "Cultivation." 

The  color  descriptions  of  the  blooms  as  given  in 

48 


BEST  VARIETIES  WITH  CHARACTERISTICS 

our  main  list  are  taken  from  the  catalogue  of  Alex- 
ander Dickson  &  Sons,  Ltd.,  which  we  consider 
particularly  clear.  We  believe  that  the  variations 
in  color  which  may  occur  in  this  country  will  differ 
less  from  the  English  standard  as  quoted  than  from 
color  descriptions  taken  from  our  own  flowers,  al- 
though where  there  is  a  very  marked  difference  we 
have  noted  the  same. 

Regarding  the  column  for  color:  we  have  marked 
this  only  in  relation  to  the  clearness  and  beauty  of 
the  color  of  each  rose;  where  the  letters  "B"  or  "C" 
occur  the  color  of  the  rose  is  either  somewhat 
muddy  or  verges  on  a  solferino  shade,  which  is  not 
considered  of  the  first  beauty  in  roses. 

Where  two  letters  are  used  it  will  be  understood 
that  the  description  in  question  will  range,  for  in- 
stance: from  "B" — good  to  "A" — very  good;  or 
from  "C"— fair  to  "B"— good,  etc. 

The  last  two  right-hand  columns  are  a  handy 
reference  for  planting  and  pruning,  and  the  distances 
for  planting  may  be  followed  implicitly. 

The  pruning  column  will  be  understood  after  the 
chapter  "Pruning"  is  read;  "D.  W."  in  this  column 
stands  for  dead  wood. 

The  Main  List  referred  to  will  be  found  on  the  following  pages. 


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GUSTAV  GRUNERWALD  
Carmine  pink;  center  yellow.  Dis- 
bud. 
HARRT  KIRK  
Note  illustration.  Bright  prim- 
rose to  amber  yellow.  With  us  light 
sulphur  yellow.  Fragrant.  Disbud. 
HEUMOSA  .  . 

Note  illustration.  Light  blush  pink. 
HON.  INA  BINOHAM  
Silver  pink.  Fair  amount  of  dis- 
budding. 
HUGO  ROLLER  
Note  illustration.  Light  canary 
yellow  with  claret,  sometimes  red- 

tically  no  disbudding. 
IRISH  BRIGHTNESS  
Velvety  crimson  shading  pink  at 
base  of  petals. 
JACQUES  VINCENT  
o,  Red  with  yellowish  shade. 

trc  JOHN  C.nifif 

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Note  illustration.  Pink,  salmon 
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per. Practically  no  disbudding. 
JULIET  
Outside  of  petals  old  gold;  interior 
rich  rosy  red  changing  to  deep  rose. 
Fair  amount  of  disbudding. 

4  VA™  <rnnH  R  —  finnH  P  —  Fair. 

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KAISERIN  AUGUSTA  VICTORIA  
Note  illustration.  Primrose.  Verj 
beautiful  glossy  leathery  foliage 
Fragrant.  Use  Japanese  Multi- 
flora.  Disbud. 
KILLARNEY  
Note  illustration.  With  us  a  soft 
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foliage  liable  to  mildew  in  damp 
seasons.  Diabud. 
KILLARNEY  BRILLIANT  
Note  illustration.  A  new  sport  o 
Killarney. 

KONIGIN  CAROLA  
Satiny  rose;  reverse  of  petals  sil 
very  white.  Disbud. 
LADY  ALICE  STANLEY  
Note  illustration.  Deep  coral  rose 
on  outside  of  petals;  inside  pale  flesh 
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LADY  ASHTOWN  
Note  illustration.  A  light  salmor 
pink.  Disbud. 
LADY  BARHAM  
Note  illustration.  Deep  flesh  cora 
pink.  Practically  no  disbudding. 
LADY  DE  BATHE  
Note  illustration.  Creamy  white 
with  yolk  of  egg  markings.  Verj 
little  disbudding. 

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66 


Ill 

CLIMBERS 

IN  the  list  which  we  have  just  given  in  the  pre- 
ceding chapter  we  have  not  included  any  climbing 
roses,  as  we  desire  to  take  these  up  separately. 

Unfortunately  there  is  not  at  this  time  any 
good,  all-round  climbing  rose  which  blooms  through 
spring,  summer  and  autumn  with  great  reliability. 
There  are  climbing  roses  which  are  advertised  so  to 
bloom,  but  although  we  have  tried  out  all  of  these, 
we  cannot  recommend  any  for  the  Middle  Atlantic 
States  and  farther  north  as  having  this  very  desir- 
able habit  to  a  marked  degree,  combined  with 
other  necessary  merits. 

There  are  dwarf  climbers  which  bloom  quite  well 
through  the  summer,  but  they  are  so  very  small 
that  they  are  only  useful  as  borders  to  large  beds 
and  we  do  not  include  them. 

For  the  same  reason  that  we  have  cut  down  our 
main  list  to  the  most  dependable  varieties,  we  have 
also  cut  this  climbing  list  down  to  those  roses  which 
we  know  will  succeed.  It  would  be  very  easy  to 
include  a  great  many  more  which  we  have  tried 

67 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

and  found  fairly  successful,  but  we  shall  confine  the 
list  to  those  climbers  which  we  know  will  prove 
most  reliable  for  the  person  desiring  a  few  of  this 
class  only. 

In  order  to  make  the  subject  as  clear  as  possible, 
we  shall  divide  all  the  various  climbers  into  two 
classes;  this  is  an  absolutely  arbitrary  division  and 
not  at  all  in  accordance  with  the  ordinary  manner 
of  classification. 

In  our  first  division  we  shall  include  Climbing 
Hybrid  Teas  and  some  other  climbers  whose  blooms 
have  the  general  shape  and  size  of  the  Hybrid  Tea 
rose.  Hybrid  Tea  climbers  are  mostly,  as  has  been 
explained  heretofore,  sports  from  very  well-known 
Hybrid  Tea  roses.  They  do  not  bloom  as  profusely 
as  the  Hybrid  Teas  nor  as  constantly.  They  may  be 
depended  upon  to  give  good  blooms  in  the  spring, 
and  a  few  other  blooms  mainly  in  the  autumn,  al- 
though these  are  so  scattered  that  they  cannot  be 
called  continually-blooming  roses.  In  addition  to 
these  we  have  included  one  or  two  other  roses  which, 
as  stated  before,  have  the  Hybrid  Tea  form  of  bloom; 
unfortunately  they  bloom  only  in  the  spring  and 
have  practically  no  bloom  thereafter,  but  we  have 
included  them  because  of  their  great  beauty. 

ARDS  ROVER.  Hybrid  Perpetual  Climber;  Alex. 
Dickson  and  Sons;  1898.  Color  is  crimson  shaded 

68 


CLIMBING  ROSE  CHRISTINE  WRIGHT  ON  DR.  HUEY'S 

PLACE 


CLIMBERS 

maroon;  medium  size,  good  form;  blooms  in  the 
spring  only;  flowers  come  on  short  stems;  has  a  fair 
petallage  and  is  very  fragrant.  A  hardy  rose  but 
in  the  North  it  is  advocated  that  the  canes  should 
be  given  winter  protection. 

CHRISTINE  WRIGHT.  Hoopes  Bros,  and  Thomas; 
1903.  Cross  between  Caroline  Testout  and  a 
Wichuraiana  seedling.  Placed  with  Hybrid  Tea 
climbers  on  account  of  the  fact  that  its  flowers  are 
large  and  fairly  double  though  borne  in  clusters; 
good  form,  with  a  perfect  bud  and  good  petallage; 
color  is  wild  rose  pink;  requires  no  protection; 
blooms  best  in  spring.  A  few  scattering  flowers  in 
autumn. 

CLIMBING  KAISERIN  AUGUSTA  VICTORIA.  Hybrid 
Tea;  Alexander  Dickson  and  Sons;  1897.  Primrose 
of  same  form  and  color  as  the  dwarf  rose  of  the  same 
name;  very  beautiful,  but  only  gives  scattering 
blooms  throughout  the  season.  Requires  heavy 
winter  protection. 

CLIMBING  LADY  ASHTOWN.  Hybrid  Tea ;  Bradley ; 
1910.  Salmon  pink,  not  quite  as  good  form  as  the 
dwarf  rose  of  the  same  name;  gives  fair  amount  of 
bloom  in  spring  and  an  occasional  bloom  during 
summer  and  early  autumn.  Requires  heavy  winter 
protection. 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

CLIMBING  MRS.  W.  J.  GRANT.  Hybrid  Tea; 
William  Paul  and  Son;  1899.  Imperial  pink;  me- 
dium to  large  size  and  of  good  form;  blooms  fairly 
well  in  the  spring  and  gives  scattering  blooms  in  the 
summer  and  autumn.  Requires  heavy  winter 
protection. 

CLIMBING  RICHMOND.  Hybrid  Tea;  Alex.  Dick- 
son  and  Sons;  1912.  Pure  red  scarlet;  bloom  similar 
to  the  ordinary  dwarf  Richmond;  of  fair  form  only 
and  blooming  less  freely  in  the  autumn  and  summer 
than  hi  the  spring  but  a  few  blooms  may  be  expected 
throughout  the  entire  season.  Requires  heavy 
winter  protection. 

DR.  VAN  FLEET.  Peter  Henderson  &  Co.;  1910. 
This  is  reported  to  be  a  cross  between  a  Wichuraiana 
and  Souv.  du  President  Carnot,  although  we  have 
no  absolute  data  on  the  subject.  It  is  a  Hybrid 
Wichuraiana,  but  on  account  of  the  form  of  the 
bloom  we  put  it  with  the  Hybrid  Tea  climbers. 
This  rose  is  more  hardy  than  the  Hybrid  Tea  climbers 
and  is  a  rose  of  a  soft  flesh  tint  shading  to  a  delicate 
peach  pink;  gives  a  bloom  on  somewhat  longer  stem 
than  the  average  climber;  blooms  well  in  the  spring 
and  scattering  blooms  thereafter.  Foliage  very  good. 

REINE  MARIE  HENRIETTE.  Hybrid  Tea;  Levet; 
1878.  Madame  Be>ard  (of  Gloire  de  Dijon)  X 

70 


CLIMBING  KAISERIN  AUGUSTA  VICTORIA 


CLIMBERS 

General  Jacqueminot.  Deep  cherry  red;  blooms 
prolifically  in  the  spring,  the  flowers  being  of  good 
form  and  petallage  and  fragrant;  later  in  the  season 
it  occasionally  gives  blooms  in  summer  and  autumn. 
Requires  winter  protection  in  the  North  only. 

There  are  quite  a  number  of  the  Hybrid  Tea 
climbing  sports,  but  those  given  above  represent 
the  main  shades.  There  is  very  little  to  choose 
between  any  of  them.  They  are  all  of  approxi- 
mately the  same  habit,  growth,  and  blooming 
qualities. 

Unfortunately  there  are  no  yellow  climbing  Hy- 
brid Teas  which  we  can  recommend.  Madame 
Hector  Leuillot  is  a  yellow  climbing  Hybrid  Tea 
but  its  canes  winter  kill,  and  although  the  plant 
lives  we  consider  it  a  collector's  rose  and  have  so 
placed  it  in  the  main  list. 

In  our  second  division  we  have  placed  all  the 
other  climbing  or  rambling  roses  which  have  given 
us  the  best  results,  most  of  them  being  Hybrid 
Wichuraiana.  Except  where  noted  they  are  abso- 
lutely hardy  and  of  much  more  vigorous  growth 
than  the  Hybrid  Tea  climbers,  though  as  a  rule 
they  only  bloom  for  a  short  season  in  the  early 
summer  and  a  few  have  some  autumn  or  sum- 
mer flowers.  With  these  we  have  also  included 
the  best  of  the  many  other  varieties  of  climbers 

71 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

which  have  given  us  very  good  results,  and  one  of 
these — climbing  Cecile  Brunner — we  have  found  to 
to  be  the  most  constant  bloomer  we  have  tried. 

CECILE  BRUNNER.  Polyantha  Hybrid;  sprays; 
beautifully  formed,  small.  This  rose,  if  secured  in 
three-year-old  plants  and  given  heavy  whiter  pro- 
tection, has  proved  in  our  experience  the  best 
bloomer  among  climbing  roses.  It  is  not  as  vigorous  a 
climber  as  the  Wichuraianas,  but  makes  good  growth 
of  eight-  to  ten-foot  canes,  on  which  its  miniature, 
perfectly-formed  flowers  appear  in  sprays.  The 
color  is  flesh  cream  with  a  shell  pink  center.  It 
must  not  be  confounded  with  the  ordinary  Cecile 
Brunner,  which  is  a  dwarf  Polyantha.  We  have 
never  seen  this  rose  catalogued  excepting  by  The 
Conrad  &  Jones  Company,  West  Grove,  Pa.  On 
account  of  its  blooming  qualities  it  is  our  own  favor- 
ite climbing  variety,  as  it  may  be  expected  to  bloom 
splendidly  in  the  spring,  quite  well  in  summer,  and 
also  hi  autumn.  There  are  a  few  other  climbing 
Polyanthas  already  catalogued,  and  several  new 
roses  of  this  class  have  been  introduced  during 
the  present  year. 

DOROTHY  DENNISON.  Hybrid  Wichuraiana;  Den- 
nison;  1909.  Trusses,  very  light  pink;  sport  of 
Dorothy  Perkins. 

72 


CLIMBERS 

DOROTHY  PERKINS.  Hybrid  Wichuraiana;  Per- 
kins; 1902.  Trusses,  single,  light  pink. 

ELIZA  ROBICHON.  Hybrid  Wichuraiana;  Barbier; 
1901.  Trusses,  single;  rose,  shaded  old  gold. 

EVANGELINE.  Hybrid  Wichuraiana.  Walsh;  1907. 
Single,  white,  tips  of  petals  carmine  pink. 

EXCELSA.  Hybrid  Wichuraiana.  Walsh;  1909. 
Trusses,  double,  brilliant  scarlet.  Crimson  Rambler 
with  good  foliage. 

GARDENIA.  Hybrid  Wichuraiana.  Manda;  1899. 
Clusters,  bright  yellow,  paler  as  flowers  expand;  very 
pretty  in  bud  form.  Foliage  very  good.  This  rose 
can  be  secured  from  Henry  A.  Dreer,  Philadelphia, 
Pa.  Do  not  confound  it  with  Gardenia  of  Soupert 
&  Netting,  which  is  inferior  with  us. 

HIAWATHA.  Hybrid  Wichuraiana.  Walsh;  1905. 
Single,  crimson,  center  pure  white  to  cream. 

WHITE  DOROTHY.  Hybrid  Wichuraiana.  Paul  & 
Son,  and  B.  R.  Cant  &  Sons;  1908.  White;  sport  of 
Dorothy  Perkins. 

In  addition  to  the  above  well-tried  climbers  there 
are  three  listed  in  the  catalogue  of  M.  H.  Walsh, 
Woods  Hole,  Mass.,  which  appeal  to  us.  We  have 
not  tried  them  as  yet,  but  from  the  descriptions  they 
are  unique  or  late  bloomers.  They  are  all  seedling 

73 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

Hybrid  Wichuraianas  introduced  by  Walsh  and  the 
descriptions  are  his. 

COQUINA.  " Shell  pink;  base  of  petals  creamy 
white;  produces  blooms  in  September." 

DEBUTANTE.  "Soft  pink.  Blooms  freely  in  July 
and  in  September  and  October." 

LA  FIAMMA.    "Flame-colored." 

It  must  be  remembered  that  in  Massachusetts 
the  season  is  shorter  and  starts  later  than  with  us 
and  that  a  rose  may  bloom  there  hi  September  which 
farther  south  ends  its  season  hi  August. 

For  climates  hi  which  there  is  little  or  no  frost 
we  are  glad  to  recommend  the  following  climbers. 
With  the  exception  of  Shower  of  Gold,  which  is  a 
Hybrid  Wichuraiana,  they  may  be  expected  to 
give  blooms  quite  well  through  the  season. 

CELINE  FORESTIER  (Noisette).  Trouillard;  1842. 
Fairly  free  flowering;  old  gold. 

CLOTH  OF  GOLD  (Noisette).  Coquereau;  1843. 
Sulphur  yellow,  deeper  center;  large  double. 

GLOIRE  DE  DIJON  (Tea).  Jacotot;  1853.  Buff, 
orange  center;  large  and  double.  Perhaps  the  hardi- 
est of  the  Tea  climbers. 

MARECHALNIEL  (Noisette).  Pradel;1864.  Bright 
rich  golden  yellow;  large,  full,  fine  form. 

74 


CLIMBERS 

MADAME  ALFRED  CARRIERS  (Hybrid  Noisette). 
Schwartz;  1879.  Pure  white,  very  free;  a  good 
pillar  rose. 

W.A.RICHARDSON  (Noisette).  Ducher;1878.  Very 
deep  orange-yellow;  small,  very  showy  and  distinct. 

SHOWER  OF  GOLD.  Hybrid  Wichuraiana.  Paul 
and  Son;  1910.  Light  cream  to  pale  yellow;  spring 
only;  foliage  fair. 

In  addition  to  these  there  are  quite  a  number  of 
Climbing  Teas  and  Noisettes. 

PLANTING  CLIMBERS 

In  planting  climbers  the  bed  should  be  prepared 
in  exactly  the  same  way  as  for  an  ordinary  bed, 
excepting  that  it  should  be  much  smaller,  but  the 
roots  of  the  climbers  will  naturally  take  up  more 
space  underground  than  the  roots  of  the  dwarf 
bushes,  and  climbers  should  have  a  bed  of  some 
extent.  This  is  particularly  necessary  for  the  Hybrid 
Tea  Climbers;  Wichuraianas  are  so  hardy  that  they 
will  do  very  well  if  given  even  a  fair  start.  The 
bed  should  be  made  of  the  same  depth  and  drained 
as  the  average  rose  bed  noted  under  "Preparation." 
For  each  plant  the  bed  should  be  about  two  feet 
wide  and  not  less  than  four  feet  in  length. 

In  planting  climbers,  especially  the  Hybrid  Teas, 

75 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

it  is  hardly  necessary  to  say  that  they  will  not  do 
well  on  the  north  side  of  any  arbor  or  wall.  Roses 
must  have  the  sun  in  order  to  flourish  and,  besides, 
many  climbers  on  a  north  wall  would  be  winter 
killed  to  a  very  great  degree.  It  would  be  easy  in 
the  case  of  all  rustic  benches,  with  rustic  tops  and 
arbors  running  east  and  west,  to  plant  roses  on  their 
southern,  eastern  and  western  sides  and  secure 
plants  which  would  entirely  cover  the  structures. 
For  an  ordinary  six-foot  bench  with  a  rustic  top 
the  same  length,  one  good  climbing  rose  planted  on 
the  southern  side  would  be  sufficient  to  cover  the 
entire  structure.  The  very  hardiest  of  the  Wichu- 
raianas  would  make  a  brave  effort  to  do  well  on  a 
north  wall,  but  unless  this  is  the  only  available 
space  we  would  not  advise  its  use.  There  is  one 
exception  to  north  wall  planting,  as  explained  later. 

PRUNING  CLIMBERS 

WICHURAIANA  CLIMBERS.  About  the  last  of 
July  or  the  first  of  August,  when  the  blooming 
season  is  over,  it  is  well  to  cut  out  some  of  the  oldest 
canes;  this  gives  new  wood  a  better  opportunity  to 
develop  and  it  becomes  the  flowering  wood  of  the 
following  season.  The  older  wood  on  Wichuraiana 
blooms  to  some  extent  but  not  as  well  as  the  growth 
of  the  previous  year.  After  this  August  pruning  it 

76 


AVIATEUR  BLERIOT 


CLIMBERS 

will  hardly  be  necessary  in  the  following  spring  to 
do  more  than  cut  out  the  dead  wood  and  keep  the 
plant  within  the  prescribed  bounds,  which  may  be 
determined  by  the  arbor  or  trellis  on  which  it  is 
grown.  The  new  canes  springing  from  the  base 
which  have  grown  during  the  previous  season 
should  remain  untouched,  excepting  that  the  ends 
or  tops  of  the  longest  canes  should  be  somewhat 
shortened.  The  same  process  used  in  pruning  re- 
cently planted  Hybrid  Teas  applies  in  the  case  of 
newly-planted  Wichuraiana,  and  especially  weaker- 
growing  climbers  planted  the  previous  autumn, 
viz.,  pruning  back  "wickedly"  in  the  spring  to  a 
few  eyes.  This  gives  the  roots  less  work  to  do  and 
insures  good  growth  for  the  following  year.  It  gives 
no  chance  for  flowers  during  the  first  summer,  but  at 
best  the  blooms  on  a  newly-planted  climber  would  be 
poor;  the  great  point  is  that  such  cutting  back  gives 
the  plant  a  better  chance  to  become  established  and 
secures  good  flowering  wood  the  second  year  and 
thereafter.  But,  if  you  insist  upon  trying  for  some 
flowers  the  first  summer  on  newly-planted  stock,  be 
sure  that  such  climbers  as  you  do  not  cut  back  have 
well-established  root  systems  with  fibrous  feeding 
roots  and  that  they  were  planted  the  previous  autumn, 
their  root  systems  having  been  noted  at  that  time. 
Under  no  circumstances  should  we  advise  allow- 

77 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

ing  the  canes  to  remain  uncut  on  any  imported 
climbers  of  winter  or  early  spring  planting,  and 
we  cannot  recommend  the  course  above  suggested, 
though  if  it  succeed  with  any  variety  it  should  do 
so  with  the  Wichuraiana.  With  two-  and  three-year- 
old  dormant  American  field-grown  plants  of  Wichura- 
iana or  its  strong  growing  hybrids  there  is  an  even 
chance  of  success.  Most  certainly  it  would  be  well 
to  give  such  plants  special  care,  for  example,  the 
use  of  liquid  manure  as  suggested  in  "Cultivation." 

It  is  not  necessary  except  in  the  extreme  North  to 
give  winter  protection  to  the  canes  of  Wichuraiana; 
however,  if  you  find  that  they  die  back,  bend  them 
down  to  the  ground  in  the  future  and  cover  with 
earth  before  the  severe  frosts  set  in. 

In  "Roses  and  Rose  Growing,"*  Miss  Kingsley 
suggests  for  special  effect  cutting  out  all  the  old 
wood  on  Wichuraiana  and  training  the  pliant,  new 
canes  over  wire  frames  in  the  shape  of  arches. 
Undoubtedly  very  pretty  effects  could  be  obtained 
by  this  method.  She  also  states  that  the  Banksias, 
some  of  the  Multifloras  such  as  Crimson  Rambler, 
and  one  Noisette,  Fortune's  Yellow,  "only  flower 
on  the  sub-laterals,  i.e.,  on  wood  three  years  old." 
We  knew  that  Crimson  Rambler  needed  practically 

*  "  Roses  and  Rose  Growing,"  by  ROSE  G.  KINGSLEY  (The  Mac- 
millan  Co.). 

78 


CLIMBERS 

only  thinning,  but  were  ignorant  of  the  interesting 
fact  regarding  the  sub-laterals.  It  will  be  readily 
understood  how  easily  the  above-named  climbers 
could  be  spoiled  by  unintelligent  pruning. 

Hybrid  Tea  and  Hybrid  Perpetual  Climbers  (other 
than  sports)  and  Polyantha  Climbers  should  be 
treated  on  somewhat  the  same  principle  as  the 
Wichuraiana  Climbers.  The  difference  is  that  their 
wood  winter  kills  more  easily,  and  therefore  no  thin- 
ning out  of  old  canes  should  be  done  before  spring, 
and  then  only  when  such  canes  crowd  the  new 
growths.  The  laterals  on  the  main  canes  should  be 
cut  back  to  from  two  to  four  eyes. 

Climbing  Sports  of  dwarf  roses,  Tea  Climbers  and 
Noisettes  should  be  pruned  more  sparingly.  Old 
canes  should  only  be  removed  as  they  become  profit- 
less, laterals  but  slightly  shortened  unless  they  are 
crowded.  In  the  case  of  all  climbers  better  results 
will  be  obtained  if  they  are  carefully  and  system- 
atically trained  and  fastened  in  place.  Most  Hybrid 
Tea  Climbers,  Noisettes,  and  all  the  Teas  need 
winter  protection,  as  above  described. 

For  all  climbers,  on  account  of  the  greater  evapo- 
ration due  to  their  larger  growth,  much  more  water 
is  necessary  than  for  dwarfs. 

We  strongly  recommend  for  them  the  peat  moss 
mulch,  noted  later. 


IV 
LOCATION  AND   PREPARATION 

EVEKY  one  cannot  have  an  ideal  location  for 
roses,  yet  given  enough  sunlight  it  is  astonishing 
what  fine  results  may  be  obtained  in  a  small  bed 
bordering  on  a  path  or  road  should  no  lawn  space  be 
available.  Too  much  shade  will  not  give  good  re- 
sults and  the  roots  of  trees  are  very  detrimental  to 
rose  growth.  Unless  the  trees  overhang  the  beds, 
if  you  believe  your  plants  will  get  direct  sunlight  at 
least  half  the  day — there  being  no  other  place  avail- 
able— the  chances  are  that  your  bed  will  succeed, 
but  you  must  protect  the  rose  roots  from  the  roots 
of  the  trees.  As  a  general  rule  a  tree  sends  out  roots 
in  a  circumference  the  radius  of  which  equals  its 
height,  but  the  roots  near  the  outer  edge  of  the 
circumference  are  small  and  can  be  cut  without 
injury  to  the  tree;  nevertheless  where  tree  roots 
once  grew  they  will  come  back  again,  and  it  is  im- 
perative that  the  roses  be  protected  from  them.  The 
simplest  and  cheapest  way  is  to  line  the  outside  of 
your  rose  bed  with  boards,  but  as  these  rot  it  is  only 
a  question  of  time  before  the  tree  roots  will  again 

80 


LOCATION  AND  PREPARATION 

force  their  way  into  the  space  reserved  for  the  roses, 
so  the  boards  must  be  renewed.  The  best  way  is 
to  put  hi  a  small  wall  of  concrete  four  inches  in 
thickness,  which  will  protect  your  bed  for  all  tune 
from  this  interference  of  tree  roots. 

Providing  your  roses  get  at  least  half  a  day's  sun- 
light and  the  tree  roots  do  not  interfere,  the  bed  can 
be  successfully  made  as  above  proposed.  The  ideal 
location  is  a  south  to  southeast  exposure,  especially 
with  a  windbreak  on  the  north  and  northwest  sides 
from  which  the  coldest  winter  winds  come.  Wind- 
breaks may  be  in  the  form  of  trees,  houses,  or  any- 
thing which  will  stop  the  direct  force  of  the  cold, 
bleak  winds.  Roses  will  do  well  even  on  a  north 
slope  if  they  get  the  sun  and  are  properly  cared  for. 
Worse  than  a  north  slope  is  low  land,  which  is  not 
and  cannot  be  easily  drained,  and  where  roses  will 
get  more  late  frost  than  they  will  on  the  exposed 
hillside. 

Having  looked  over  your  ground  and  selected,  in 
accordance  with  the  general  working  directions 
given  above,  the  most  suitable  place  for  your  roses, 
consider  next  the  shape  of  the  bed,  the  extent  of 
space  to  be  given  to  it  and  the  number  of  plants 
it  will  accommodate.  Unless  formal  or  landscape 
gardening  is  desired  the  most  practical  form  of  bed 

for  roses  is  one  three  feet  wide  (the  proper  width 
6  81 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

for  two  rows  of  plants),  and  long  enough  to  accom- 
modate the  number  of  plants  desired  when  they  are 
spaced  at  an  average  distance  of  eighteen  inches, 
center  to  center.  Some  of  the  weaker  growing  roses 
will  do  better  if  set  only  twelve  inches  apart,  while 
the  stronger  growing  varieties  should  be  placed  as 
far  apart  as  three  feet;  but  for  a  working  rule,  unless 
you  expect  to  order  only  the  very  largest  roses,  an 
allowance  of  eighteen  inches  each  will  be  found  to 
give  roughly  the  number  of  plants  which  your  bed 
will  hold.* 

Having  decided  on  the  number  of  plants  which 
you  want  before  proceeding  with  the  actual  order- 
ing of  the  varieties,  instructions  for  which  will  be 
found  in  the  following  chapter,  consider  what  steps 
are  necessary  to  make  the  beds  properly  and  have 
them  in  absolute  readiness  for  the  arrival  of  the 
plants.  They  should  be  made  some  weeks  before 
planting  to  allow  for  settling  and  if  they  should  have 
settled  too  much  below  the  ground  level  additional 
soil  may  be  added,  although  to  conserve  moisture 
the  actual  finished  level  of  the  bed  should  be  from 
one-half  to  one  inch  below  the  surface  of  the  adjacent 
ground. 

*"  Pictorial  Practical  Rose  Growing,"  by  Wright,  gives  four  very 
clever  sketches  for  formal  rose  gardens.  "Gardens  for  Small  Country 
Houses,"  by  Gertrude  Jekyll  and  Lawrence  Weaver,  would  be  a 
great  help  to  any  one  desiring  to  do  more  than  lay  out  a  few  beds. 

82 


ROSES  ON  DR.  HUEY'S  PLACE 


LOCATION  AND  PREPARATION 

The  matter  of  soil,  or  of  the  best  composition  of 
soil,  for  the  rose  bed  is  a  very  interesting  one,  and 
when  a  person  wishes  to  go  into  rose  growing  on  a 
large  scale  beds  should  be  constructed  for  each 
particular  kind  of  rose. 

Pemberton  goes  most  thoroughly  into  this  subject 
of  soils;  any  one  contemplating  the  planting  of  several 
hundred  roses  will  do  well  to  study  his  chapter  on 
soils.  He  advocates  for  roses,  where  autumn  blooms 
are  desired,  from  forty  to  seventy  per  cent,  of  clay 
in  the  bed,  and  this  statement  of  his  has  been  borne 
out  by  our  experiments  with  different  soils. 

The  most  complete  and  technical  book  on  this 
subject  which  we  have  found  is:  " Soils,"  Lyon  and 
Fippin;  L.  H.  Bailey,  editor. 

A  rule  which  seems  to  be  endorsed  by  all  rosarians 
is  that  Hybrid  Perpetuals  and  the  stronger  Hybrid 
Teas  do  better  in  clay,  and  the  weaker  Hybrid  Teas 
and  Teas  are  more  certain  to  thrive  hi  soil  containing 
some  sand. 

At  the  present  time,  Mr.  Frederick  W.  Taylor,  of 
Philadelphia,  is  conducting  a  great  many  interesting 
and  exhaustive  experiments  with  different  kinds  of 
soils,  particularly  in  relation  to  the  growing  of  grass 
but  to  some  extent  in  testing  roses.  Some  of  his 
beds  have  been  made  up  in  most  complicated  and 
expensive  ways,  and  while  good  results  have  been 

83 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

secured,  nevertheless,  from  careful  comparison  be- 
tween his  roses  and  those  in  our  ordinary  beds,  we 
cannot  see  enough  advantage  gamed  to  warrant 
our  recommending  his  beds  for  general  use,  primarily 
on  account  of  the  expense  and  trouble  involved  in 
their  construction.  No  doubt  Mr.  Taylor  will  event- 
ually discover  the  best  beds  for  each  given  type  of 
rose,  changes  in  the  beds  being  made  in  accordance 
with  the  different  habits  of  growth  of  the  plants. 
If  these  new  beds  are  to  be  brought  before  the  rose- 
growing  public,  most  certainly  they  should  have  the 
advantage  of  being  explained  by  their  originator  and 
not  by  us.  It  is  our  opinion  that  for  the  average  rose 
lover  who  wants  to  grow  his  few  dozen  plants,  such 
experiments,  while  interesting,  would  not  as  yet  be 
practical  and  would  certainly  be  very  expensive.  It 
is  far  better  to  order  the  best  roses  as  carefully  tested 
in  the  regular  beds,  and  to  construct  beds  from  which 
good  all-round  and  practical  results  may  be  obtained 
at  a  moderate  cost.  There  is,  however,  one  new 
feature  of  Mr.  Taylor's  experiments  which  seems 
very  practical  and  useful  and  is  so  simple  that  we 
take  great  pleasure  (with  his  permission)  in  recom- 
mending it  for  rose  beds,  i.e.,  the  covering  of  the 
bed  in  the  spring  with  a  blanket  of  peat  moss. 
This  is  a  non-conductor  of  heat  and  cold,  and  will 
not  only  keep  the  moisture  in  the  ground  by  pro- 

84 


LOCATION  AND  PREPARATION 

tecting  it  from  the  sun's  absorbing  rays  but  also 
greatly  reduce  the  actual  temperature  of  the  bed. 

In  July  and  August  the  ground  temperature  of 
beds  covered  with  this  mulch  is  from  five  to  six 
degrees  lower  than  adjacent  beds.  Later,  when  the 
average  ground  temperature  is  below  seventy,  there 
is  little  if  any  difference.  In  addition  to  this  it 
prevents  some  seeds  of  weeds  from  germinating,  so 
that  this  cover  practically  eliminates  constant  weed- 
ing. It  also  gives  the  beds  a  neat  and  most  attrac- 
tive appearance.  The  best  tune  to  put  on  this  peat 
moss  is  as  yet  an  undecided  point,  but  we  are  inclined 
to  recommend  placing  the  moss  on  the  beds  after 
the  frost  is  well  out  of  the  ground  and  before  the 
days  become  very  warm.  Undoubtedly  after  this 
year,  in  which  we  shall  try  covering  different  beds  at 
different  times,  this  new  operation  will  be  better 
understood. 

This  peat  moss  may  be  secured  from  any  nursery, 
and  it  should  be  ground  fine  by  a  machine,  then 
sprinkled  with  water  before  it  is  placed  on  the  beds, 
to  keep  it  from  blowing  about.  By  putting  on  a  six- 
inch  blanket  you  will  secure  the  depth  required  of 
from  three  to  four  inches. 

In  order  to  avoid  breaking  the  rose  canes  the 
safest  way  to  pack  the  moss  properly  into  place  is 
to  trample  on  it  carefully.  It  will  be  found  that  the 

85 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

roses  so  covered  will  give  bloom  about  as  early  as 
plants  left  unprotected  by  moss,  and  during  the 
hottest  weather  the  covered  plants  will  thrive  to  a 
greater  degree  while  the  moss  renders  watering  less 
necessary,  and  thereby  somewhat  prevents  the  likeli- 
hood of  mildew. 

The  beds  we  have  tested  with  and  without  moss 
show  that  the  covered  plants  bloom  only  one  day 
later,  but  hold  the  bloom  much  longer. 

In  some  of  our  beds  we  are  putting  a  four-inch 
layer  of  peat  moss  at  each  side  of  the  bed  and  at 
the  ends,  which  should  still  further  act  in  keeping 
the  temperature  low.  We  do  not  think  this  neces- 
sary, but  in  districts  where  dry,  hot  weather  of  long 
duration  occurs,  and  in  seashore  planting,  where 
soil  must  be  imported,  and  where  the  existing,  ex- 
tremely sandy  soil  surrounding  the  rose  bed  becomes 
very  hot,  such  side  protection  should  be  of  great 
benefit.  The  moss  should  go  from  the  surface  to 
the  bottom  of  the  bed  and  make  a  four-inch  wall 
between  the  bed  and  the  hotter  ground  around  it. 
Where  cement  or  boards  have  been  used  to  keep 
out  tree  roots,  this  side  protection  is,  of  course, 
unnecessary. 

Peat  moss  is  worth  about  fourteen  dollars  a  ton 
by  the  carload  and  one  ton  will  cover  over  one 
hundred  yards  of  rose  beds,  averaging  three  and  one- 

86 


LOCATION  AND  PREPARATION 

half  feet  in  width,  the  finished  level  of  the  moss  being 
over  three  niches;  hi  other  words,  two  hundred 
pounds,  at  a  cost  of  less  than  two  dollars,  would 
protect  ten  yards  of  rose  bed,  or  about  forty  plants. 
The  hundred-pound  price  is  a  little  more  expensive 
than  the  carload  rate. 

To  return  to  the  composition  of  the  bed  itself. 
We  have  found  that  there  are  two  most  important 
things  necessary  to  insure  success:  first,  the  bed 
must  underdrain,  to  get  rid  of  any  great  surplus  of 
water,  so  that  in  very  damp  seasons  the  rose  roots 
will  not  be  too  wet;  second,  the  bed  must,  on  the 
other  hand,  retain  moisture  to  a  certain  extent  so 
that  in  very  dry  seasons  the  roots  will  not  be  too 
dry.  To  obtain  the  drainage  it  is  necessary  in  soil 
which  is  greatly  composed  of  clay  to  underdrain 
the  beds  by  a  layer  of  crushed  stone;  where  the  soil 
is  more  open,  gravelly  or  sandy,  this  is  not  needed. 
The  bed  should  be  made  two  and  one-half  feet  in 
depth  if  underdrainage  is  necessary,  with  about  six 
inches  of  crushed  or  broken  stone  put  in  the  bottom; 
small  crushed  stone  lies  evenly,  and  the  earth  does 
not  sift  through  it  enough  to  clog  the  drainage. 
Large  or  uneven  stone  should  be  covered  by  some- 
thing to  keep  the  earth  from  sifting  through.  If 
the  bed  is  made  in  a  lawn  the  turf  cut  from  the  sur- 
face and  turned  upside  down  is  a  good  expedient, 

87 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

or  a  couple  of  inches  of  fine  cinders  will  be  found  all 
that  is  required.  Fine  stone  is  really  the  best.  Of 
course,  for  a  location  which  is  gravelly  or  sandy,  this 
stone  will  not  be  needed  and  a  depth  of  two  feet  will 
be  sufficient. 

We  will  now  consider  that  we  have  dug  a  trench, 
the  bottom  either  covered  or  not  covered  with  stone 
to  the  depth  of  six  inches,  as  the  case  may  be,  but 
which  is  now  two  feet  deep  from  the  ground  level. 
It  should  be  noted  that  in  digging  this  trench  for 
the  bed  the  top  soil  should  be  placed  in  one  pile 
and  the  subsoil  in  another.  The  top  soil  is  the  soil 
on  the  surface,  which  runs  to  different  depths,  usually 
about  six  inches,  and  which  is  composed  for  the 
most  part  of  decayed  vegetation  from  the  roots  of 
many  generations  of  grasses,  etc.  It  contains  a  per- 
centage of  humus  and  is,  therefore,  very  valuable  as 
food  to  the  rose  roots.  Usually  it  is  darker  in  color 
than  the  subsoil  and  can  easily  be  noted.  In  soils 
where  there  is  a  large  percentage  of  clay  or  loam  it 
will  not  be  necessary  to  use  subsoil  other  than  that 
taken  from  the  trench,  as  far  as  one-third  of  the 
mixture  to  be  put  back  into  the  bed  is  concerned; 
but  where  soil  is  very  gravelly  or  sandy  it  would  be 
best  to  secure  some  heavy  loam  or  clay  to  make  the 
proper  kind  of  bed.  The  finished  bed  should  be 
one-third  top  soil,  one-third  heavy  clay  subsoil,  and 

88 


LOCATION  AND  PREPARATION 

one-third  cow  manure.  There  will  not  be  enough 
top  soil  taken  from  the  trench  to  supply  the  one- 
third  necessary  for  the  bed,  and  more  must  be 
provided. 

In  localities  where  there  is  no  heavy  clay  or  loam 
there  will  often  be  found  heavy,  dark  soil  which 
contains  decayed  leaves,  roots,  etc.,  which  is  a  very 
good  substitute.  Subsoil  containing  sand  in  any 
quantity  should  have  loam  and  clay  added  and  top 
soil  containing  much  sand  should  have  other  top 
soil  added.  Reverting  to  what  we  have  said  before, 
and  so  as  to  make  our  objects  perfectly  clear,  it  will 
be  remembered  that  the  soil  should  be  heavy  enough 
to  hold  moisture,  be  rich  enough  for  sustenance,  and 
yet  must  drain  at  the  bottom,  as  otherwise  in  wet 
seasons  the  plants  will  be  too  damp. 

The  ideal  way  to  mix  the  top  soil,  clay  and  manure 
in  three  equal  parts  would  be  by  machine,  but  for 
all  practical  purposes  we  have  found  the  following 
procedure  to  be  all  that  is  necessary:  Cover  the 
bottom  of  the  trench  with  a  given  number  of  wheel- 
barrow loads  of  the  rich,  darker  top  soil,  then  add 
the  same  number  of  loads  of  the  lighter,  clayey  sub- 
soil, and  then  an  equal  number  of  loads  of  manure, 
after  which  the  whole  bed  should  be  forked  together 
thoroughly  to  mix  the  ingredients.  After  this  first 
layer  is  thoroughly  mixed,  proceed  as  above  with  the 

89 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

wheelbarrow  loads  of  each  ingredient  and  mix  again. 
After  each  mixing  the  bed  should  be  thoroughly 
rammed,  otherwise  it  will  settle  too  much  after  it  is 
finished. 

When  making  beds  for  autumn  planting  it  would 
be  well  to  realize  that  very  often  roses  imported 
from  the  other  side,  are  delayed.  The  season  may 
be  very  late  with  the  European  growers,  and  the 
leaves  not  fall  from  the  plants  until  after  our  heavy 
frosts  (which  may  be  early  ones)  have  frozen  the 
ground.  For  this  reason,  when  the  beds  are  made 
the  ground  conditions  must  be  carefully  watched, 
and  if  frost  appears  they  should  be  covered  with  a 
heavy  litter.  This  will  usually  protect  the  ground 
so  that  if  the  roses  do  not  arrive  until  well  into  the 
autumn  they  may  still  be  planted.  We  have  suc- 
cessfully planted  roses  after  hard  freezing  and  six 
inches  of  snow  in  December,  our  beds  having  been 
covered  with  a  heavy  litter  before  the  snow  fell. 
WTien  planting  we  removed  snow  and  litter  and  the 
following  year  our  roses  did  well. 


ORDERING 

HAVING  gone  carefully  over  the  chapter  on  "  Varie- 
ties" and  considered  the  lists  of  roses,  the  reader  will 
be  ready  to  order  his  plants.  It  is  believed  that  the 
suggestions  hereinafter  given  will  aid  in  avoiding 
many  of  the  errors  and  disappointments  usually 
connected  with  this  necessary  work. 

Ordering  is  indeed  one  of  the  most  important 
features  to  be  considered;  when  properly  done  it 
insures  success,  and  when  improperly  done  it  is 
sure  to  bring  disappointment  and  to  secure  what  is 
not  desired.  An  understanding  of  the  conditions 
which  beset  all  nurserymen  would  do  much  to  help 
towards  success.  The  main  trouble  is  that  the  aver- 
age man  does  not  properly  specify  just  what  he 
wants  and  when  he  wants  it,  nor  what  he  desires 
done  if  the  order  cannot  be  filled  exactly  with 
each  variety  ordered.  He  does  not  consider  sub- 
stitution. 

The  nurseryman  receives  his  greatest  number  of 
orders  in  the  spring  and  autumn  when  he  and  his 
clerks,  his  packers  and  his  entire  force  are  over- 
worked. He  has  only  so  many  varieties  and  only 

91 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

so  many  plants  of  each,  and  his  roses  are  in  a  cer- 
tain condition,  which  may  or  may  not  be  good. 
Therefore  the  man  who  sends  his  order  early,  speci- 
fying exactly  what  he  wants,  stands  the  best  chance 
of  securing  what  he  desires.  Later  orders,  unless 
very  specific,  naturally  are  filled  from  what  stock 
is  left,  not  always  with  what  was  desired,  and  the 
fault  does  not  rest  with  the  nurseryman.  If  the 
order  is  properly  made  out  and  request  is  made  for 
its  immediate  filling,  and  the  nurseryman  who  re- 
ceives the  order  advises  that  he  is  unable  to  ship, 
then  the  purchaser  has  an  opportunity  to  place  his 
request  elsewhere;  but  if  the  order  is  not  properly 
made  out  and  does  not  specify  regarding  substitu- 
tions the  shipment  may  not  be  satisfactory. 

At  the  end  of  this  chapter  we  supply  a  form  of 
order  blank  which  thoroughly  covers  the  matter 
and  which  will  greatly  aid  the  reader. 

In  ordering  roses  the  following  requisites  should 
be  specified:  field-grown,  two-year-old  stock  or  if 
possible  three-year-old  stock;  budded  stock,  not 
grafted  or  own-root  roses,  except  perhaps  in  case  of 
some  climbing  varieties;  dormant  stock.  In  addi- 
tion instructions  should  be  given  for  substitutions. 

Ordinarily  dormant  roses  are  much  better  for 
either  spring  or  autumn  delivery;  but  if  roses  are 
ordered  after  the  growing  season  has  started  it  is 

92 


ORDERING 

impossible  to  get  dormant  plants.  In  our  opinion 
plants  which  have  started  growth  are  uncertain  but 
with  care  will  often  do  well. 

If  the  ordering  is  done  in  the  fall  and  the  roses 
are  so  late  in  coming  that  although  the  beds  have 
been  covered  with  litter  the  ground  is  frozen  hard 
to  some  depth  and  it  is  impossible  to  plant  them, 
do  not,  under  any  circumstances,  have  them  kept 
indoors  during  the  whiter;  for  they  will  then  generally 
sprout  and,  if  planted  early,  will  be  set  back  by  the 
late  frosts,  or  if  kept  until  later  will  be  set  back  on 
account  of  their  change  after  growth  has  started. 
It  would  be  wiser  to  heel  the  plants  in  the  open 
ground;  that  is,  dig  a  trench  deep  enough  to  cover 
the  roses  half-way  up  the  canes  and  place  the  plants 
therein,  filling  in  with  dry  earth. 

As  we  believe  that  the  greater  number  of  budded 
roses  can  be  properly  secured  from  almost  any  large 
nurseryman,  the  nearest  one  would  perhaps  be  the 
best  from  whom  to  order.  The  roses  budded  by 
Alex.  Dickson  &  Sons,  of  Ireland,  whom  every 
nurseryman  knows,  are  as  good  as  any  foreign  roses 
and  will  include  most  varieties.  We  feel,  after 
having  planted  many  of  Dicksons'  budded  roses, 
that  we  can  safely  recommend  them,  though  by  so 
doing  we  do  not  wish  to  condemn  the  budded  foreign 
roses  of  any  other  grower;  we  simply  have  not  tried 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

them  to  any  great  extent  because  we  have  always 
been  satisfied  with  Dicksons'  stock,  Dr.  Robert 
Huey  having  used  it  for  over  thirty  years  and  we 
also  having  tested  it  for  nearly  fifteen. 

Recently,  as  we  have  mentioned  in  "Propagation," 
there  have  been  some  American  firms  who  have 
tried  budding  on  Japanese  Multiflora.  We  have 
grown  some  of  these  plants  for  a  number  of  years 
past  and  have  had  very  good  success  with  them. 

In  ordering  from  such  growers  the  planter  has  the 
advantage  of  securing  stock  more  or  less  acclimated, 
and  does  not  run  the  risk  of  having  the  heat  of  the 
steamers  sprout  plants  directly  imported;  he  is 
dealing  with  firms  close  at  hand  and  is  also  aiding 
an  American  enterprise. 

We,  therefore,  suggest  that  when  the  desired  varie- 
ties may  be  secured,  the  same  can  be  obtained  from 
the  following  growers,  who  are  budding  on  the 
Japanese  Multiflora.  There  may  be  other  firms 
unknown  to  us  who  are  using  this  stock,  but  at  the 
present  time  these  budded  plants  may  be  secured 
from  George  H.  Peterson,  Fairlawn,  N.  J.;  Henry 
A.  Dreer,  Inc.,  Riverton,  N.  J.;  Bobbink  &  Atkins, 
Rutherford,  N.  J.  Peterson  was  the  first  to  our 
knowledge  to  grow  it  to  any  extent,  and  while  it  is 
not  mentioned  in  his  catalogue  as  "Japanese  Multi- 
flora," we  understand  this  is  the  stock  used. 


ORDERING 

The  budding  of  roses  by  American  firms  is  cer- 
tainly a  great  advance  in  rose  culture  and  of  inesti- 
mable value  to  our  rose  growers.  Where  it  is  possi- 
ble to  secure  the  varieties  desired,  we  recommend 
American  field-grown  plants,  budded  and  grown  out- 
of-doors  by  any  well-known  firm  of  nurserymen. 

For  all  large  collections  when  American  field- 
grown  stock  cannot  be  obtained,  we  would  suggest 
that  budded  stock  as  grown  by  Alex.  Dickson  & 
Sons,  of  Ireland,  be  ordered  from  the  nearest  nur- 
seryman. When  making  inquiry  or  ordering  we 
advise  the  use  of  blanks  similar  to  those  suggested 
by  us. 

Out-of-doors  a  few  roses  budded  on  the  Multi- 
flora  do  not  give  as  perfect  color  as  those  budded 
on  other  stocks,  and  we  believe  an  example  of  this 
to  be  the  Lyon  Rose.  In  our  greenhouse  the  Lyon 
Rose  on  Japanese  Multiflora  gave  splendid  results, 
but  outside  the  color  was  not  always  perfect;  the 
Lyon  Rose  on  other  stocks  does  not  succeed  well  in 
outdoor  culture.  This  bears  out  the  statement  in 
the  chapter  on  "Propagation"  that  different  stocks 
should  be  used  for  different  varieties,  and  that  the 
best  stocks  for  all  roses  have  not  yet  been  definitely 
decided. 

We  particularly  wish  the  reader  to  understand 
that  the  care  which  we  have  used  in  going  into  the 

95 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

matter  of  ordering  and  our  remarks  pertaining 
thereto  are  not  meant  in  any  way  to  reflect  upon 
nurserymen,  through  many  of  whom  we  have  re- 
ceived orders  properly  filled,  and  with  whom  our 
relations  have  been  most  pleasant.  On  the  contrary, 
we  show  the  purchaser  the  conditions  under  which 
the  nurserymen  labor  and  point  out  a  practical 
way  in  which  ordering  may  be  done,  so  that  there 
will  be  no  disappointments  to  the  purchaser,  and 
that  pleasant  relations  will  be  maintained  between 
him  and  the  grower  or  importer.  We  believe  this 
explanation  of  conditions  will  help  the  nurseryman 
as  well  as  the  purchaser,  for  we  are  of  the  opinion 
that  the  errors  which  occur  are  generally  the  fault 
of  the  man  who  orders. 

In  closing,  we  wish  to  add  a  few  words  regarding 
the  different  tunes  of  the  year  in  which  planting 
may  be  done.  The  temperature  of  the  ground  is 
as  important  as  the  tune  of  year,  and  the  condition 
in  which  the  plant  is  received  has  more  to  do  with 
future  success  than  either.  Unless  the  growing 
season  has  begun  and  is  well  under  way  plants 
must  be  received  in  a  dormant  condition.  We 
ourselves  have  planted  roses  at  all  times  of  the  year 
and  have  found  that  if  the  plants  were  in  proper  con- 
dition and  properly  handled  they  have  nearly  always 
done  well;  if  plants  were  not  in  proper  condition,  no 

96 


ORDERING 

matter  how  much  care  was  used,  failure  prac- 
tically always  resulted  unless  plants  received  green- 
house care. 

The  advantage  of  planting  roses  in  the  autumn 
is  that  if  they  are  dormant,  i.e.,  if  growth  has  stopped 
for  the  year  prior  to  their  shipment,  and  if  they 
have  not  been  subjected  to  heat  during  shipment 
causing  growth  to  recommence,  they  will  when 
planted  become  more  or  less  fixed  in  their  position, 
and  little  fibrous  roots  will  have  in  most  instances 
commenced  growth  before  spring.  Roses  so  planted 
and  which  have  become  so  established  will  start  off 
well  in  the  spring,  much  better  than  a  rose  which 
has  only  been  hi  the  ground  a  short  time. 

Our  advice  to  all  planters  with  whom  the  expense 
of  replacing  dead  plants  is  not  of  much  moment  is 
this:  From  October  to  May  plant  your  roses  as 
soon  as  you  have  decided  that  you  want  them. 
Undoubtedly,  you  will  lose  some  if  you  plant  after 
the  growing  season  has  begun;  perhaps  if  you  plant 
the  last  of  the  winter  you  will  not  secure  as  good 
roses  as  if  you  set  out  perfectly  dormant  plants  hi 
the  late  autumn,  but  no  doubt  a  great  many  of 
them  will  come  through  and  be  better  plants  the 
following  year  than  if  you  had  waited,  say  from  the 
early  spring  to  the  following  autumn.  In  addition 

to  this  there  is  the  pleasure  of  having  the  roses. 
7  97 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 


SUGGESTED  FORMS  FOR  INQUIRY  AND  ORDER 
BLANKS 

Can  you  supply  in  two-  or  three-year-old 
dormant  field-grown,  budded  plants  the 
following  roses: 

(LIST  OF  ROSES) 

In  the  event  of  not  having  all  the  above 
varieties,  what  plants  can  you  substitute 
which  comply  with  the  above  requirements? 


On  what  date  can  you  ship? 

Kindly    answer    at    once,    using    enclosed 

addressed  and  stamped  envelope 

If  answer  is  to  hand  by !dat.e) ,  I  will, 

if  satisfactory,  at  once  place  order;  other- 
wise I  will  not  consider  same. 

This  is  an  inquiry — NOT  an  order 


NOTE:    In  ordering  climbing  varieties  other  than  Hybrid 
Teas  leave  out  the  word  "budded." 
98 


ORDERING 

When  a  satisfactory  reply  is  received  the  order 
should  be  placed  and  the  following  form  is  suggested : 

Please  place  my  order  for  the  following 

roses,  as  per  my  inquiry  of (date) 

and  your  reply  of (date) 

(LIST  OF  ROSES) 

I  understand  that  the  above-named  roses 
are  two-  or  three-year-old  dormant  field- 
grown,  budded  plants;  that  there  are  to 
be  no  substitutions; 
that  they  are  to  be  shipped  me  on ....  (date) 

(LIST  OF  CLIMBERS) 

I  understand  that  the  climbers  are  own- 
root  plants,  otherwise  they  are  as  above 
specified. 


VI 
PLANTING 

LET  us  suppose  that  your  beds  are  ready,  your 
shipment  has  been  ordered,  and  on  one  eventful 
morning  it  has  arrived.  You  naturally  take  great 
pains  to  unpack  carefully  and  to  see  that  the  varie- 
ties received  check  off  properly  with  the  order 
given.  Sometimes  one  or  more  mistakes  may  be 
made  in  a  large  shipment,  but  as  a  usual  thing 
great  care  has  been  exercised  both  in  the  selection 
and  packing  of  your  order,  and  it  should  arrive  in 
good  shape  and  the  varieties  should  be  as  ordered. 
Very  often  the  nurseryman  will  add  a  plant  or  two 
for  good  measure.  The  plants  should  be  unpacked 
inside  some  building,  unless  perfect  weather  condi- 
tions prevail,  viz.,  a  damp,  moist  day — neither 
cold  nor  hot.  After  having  been  checked  off,  the 
plants  should  be  carefully  covered  so  that  the  roots 
will  neither  be  frozen  nor  dried  out  by  too  much 
wind  or  heat.  Usually  the  roses  come  packed  in 
moss  which  should  be  left  on  them.  If  there  is  no 
moss,  cover  the  roots  with  damp  earth,  and  when 
taken  outside  keep  them  protected  with  any  kind 
of  wrapping,  such  as  burlap  or  gunny  sacks;  or, 

better  still,  keep  them  in  buckets  or  tubs  of  water, 

100 


PLANTING 

except  in  freezing  weather,  when  you  should  not 
plant.  This  is  most  important  so  that  the  roots 
may  be  placed  in  the  ground  in  proper  condition. 
Before  taking  the  roses  to  their  beds  you  should 
have  made  a  small  plan  of  just  how  yon  propose 
to  plant  them;  if  for  a  formal  or  landscape  effect 
this  has  no  doubt  been  all  arranged  beforehand  to 
suit  your  taste.  If ,  however,  you  are  merely  planting 
them  in  the  ordinary  form  of  bed  it  is  a  very  simple 
matter  to  have  your  bed  arranged  for  their  reception. 

You  know  what  roses  are  coming,  you  have  the 
distance  apart  in  which  they  should  be  planted 
(covered  in  our  main  list),  and  you  should  decide 
on  the  order  in  which  you  wish  to  place  them. 
Personally  we  prefer  planting  roses  in  alphabetical 
order,  as  we  find  that  nature's  colors  never  conflict 
and  that  it  is  the  easiest  way  of  telling  where  any 
particular  rose  is  located. 

Your  bed  should  be  three  feet  wide  for  Hybrid 
Teas  and  Teas.  For  Hybrid  Perpetuals  and  very 
strong  growers  four  feet  is  better.  You  plant  your 
roses  ten  inches  from  the  edge  of  the  bed  and  eigh- 
teen inches  apart,  and  you  do  not  plant  them 
exactly  opposite  to  one  another;  in  other  words, 
you  "stagger"  them.  You  have  two  rows  of  plants, 
each  row  ten  inches  from  the  side  of  the  bed.  With 

one  row  you  plant  the  first  rose  nine  inches  from  the 

101 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

end  of  the  bed;  with  the  other  row  you  plant  the 
first  rose  eighteen  inches  from  the  same  end  of  the 
bed.  This  does  not  bring  the  plants  opposite  one 
another  and  gives  them  a  trifle  more  room  in  which 
to  grow,  making  them  eighteen  inches  apart  each 
way.  For  our  own  beds  we  make  a  drawing,  as 
indicated  by  sketch  below,  which  we  find  very  easy 
to  correct  from  time  to  tune  if  a  rose  dies  or  is  taken 
out  for  any  reason  and  another  substituted.  Sup- 
pose, for  example,  you  have  decided  to  put  in  four 
roses  each  of  the  following:  Antoine  Revoire, 
Duchess  of  Wellington,  General  MacArthur,  Kil- 
larney,  and  two  each  of  Souv.  du  President  Carnot 
and  Joseph  Hill. 


w 

BED 

AADDGGJKKP 
AADDGGJKKP 

Name  Introducer  Date  Color  Notes 

A — Antoine  Revoire 

D — Duchess  of  Wellington 

G — General  MacArthur 

J — Joseph  Hill 

K — Killarney 

P — President  Carnot 

108 


PLANTING 

It  is  well  to  make  a  compass  drawing  as  outlined 
so  that  there  may  be  no  question  as  to  which  end 
of  the  bed  you  refer. 

This  plan  of  procedure  is  suggested  because 
labels  are  a  delusion  and  a  snare,  do  not  last,  and 
also  become  misplaced  through  various  causes,  so 
that  while  we  keep  labels  in  our  beds  we  depend 
absolutely  upon  our  written  plan  for  positive  infor- 
mation as  to  what  each  rose  is,  its  location,  etc. 
It  is  but  the  matter  of  a  few  moments  to  make  this 
record  and  the  time  so  occupied  will  well  repay  you. 

Having  run  two  lines  ten  inches  from  each  side 
of  the  bed,  and  from  one  end  to  the  other,  you  can 
then  space  off  the  proper  point  at  which  each  rose 
is  to  be  planted  by  a  stake,  which  can  be  measured 
with  ordinary  rule  or  line.  In  the  case  of  the  roses 
which  we  have  given  you  will  note  that  they  are 
to  be  placed  eighteen  inches  apart,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  Joseph  Hill,  President  Carnot,  and  Antoine 
Revoire,  which  are  to  be  placed  twelve  and  fifteen 
inches  apart.  Before  starting  work  put  on  an  old 
pair  of  gloves;  you  will  need  them  to  protect  your 
hands  from  the  thorns.  Bring  out  but  a  few  roses 
at  a  tune,  and,  in  order  to  avoid  any  possible  mix- 
ing of  the  plants,  we  would  suggest  that  each  variety 
be  kept  absolutely  separate  and  be  planted  at  one 
time  before  the  next  kind  is  placed  in  the  bed. 

103 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

Sometimes  rose  roots  are  injured  in  the  shipment, 
in  which  case  it  will  be  necessary  to  cut  off  the  broken 
ends.  A  good  pair  of  pruning  shears  and  a  sharp 
knife  are  the  two  best  implements  for  this  work. 
Cuts  should  be  sharp  and  clean  and  the  roots  should 
be  cut  off  above  the  break.  It  will  only  take  a  minute 
to  examine  each  plant  before  it  is  actually  set  and 
to  cut  off  broken  roots  and  any  suckers  in  which 
growth  may  have  started. 

The  thing  to  be  most  carefully  considered,  and 
most  important  in  planting  roses,  is  to  dig  a  hole 
about  eighteen  inches  deep,  the  center  of  which  is 
approximately  the  center  of  the  mark  for  the  rose. 
The  earth  should  be  taken  out  with  a  spade  from 
this  hole  and,  before  finally  placing  the  earth  in  it, 
two  things  should  be  carefully  noted:  that  the 
roots  spread  out  at  the  bottom  and  do  not  cross  one 
another.  The  more  you  spread  out  your  roots  the 
more  sustenance  the  plant  will  get,  and  the  more 
room  there  will  be  for  the  little  fibrous  roots.  It  is 
particularly  difficult  to  spread  out  the  roots  of  pot- 
grown  plants,  as  they  become  curled  in  the  pots; 
and  this  is  one  reason  why  pot-grown  plants  are 
not  recommended.  The  other  important  point  is 
that  the  bud,  i.e.,  the  point  at  which  the  variety  has 
been  budded  to  the  stock,  which  you  will  easily 
note,  should  be  at  a  certain  given  distance  below 

104 


PLANTING 

the  ground  level.  On  these  two  factors  depend 
the  size  of  your  excavation.  The  bud  should  be 
not  less  than  two  inches  and  not  more  than  three 
inches  below  the  finished  level  of  the  bed.  This 
seems  like  getting  down  to  very  exact  planting,  but 
if  the  bud  is  higher  it  is  not  sufficiently  protected  in 
winter,  and  the  rose  does  not  do  as  well  if  it  is  planted 
lower. 

The  hole  being  properly  dug,  place  your  rose  in  it, 
carefully  spreading  out  the  roots  so  that  they  do 
not  cross  or  touch  one  another  at  any  point.  This 
will  take  some  time  and  care,  but  it  is  of  the  greatest 
importance  to  the  future  growth  of  the  rose  that  it 
be  properly  done.  Two  persons  can  do  the  work 
much  better  than  one.  In  our  own  planting  we 
always  have  a  small  bucket  containing  top  soil  and 
bone  meal  finely  powdered  in  equal  parts  which  we 
lightly  sprinkle  at  the  bottom  of  the  hole  and  also 
on  the  roots;  we  have  found  this  to  be  very  helpful 
to  their  growth,  because  it  precludes  the  possibility 
of  any  manure  touching  the  roots  (manure  which  is 
too  fresh  and  not  well  rotted  will  burn  them)  -and 
promotes  the  growth  of  the  very  much  to  be  de- 
sired fibrous  feeding  roots.  After  this  preparation 
is  put  in,  we  have  our  helper  shovel  in  the  soil 
carefully,  a  little  at  a  time,  to  fill  up  the  hole.  As 
he  puts  it  in,  we  tamp  it  firmly  with  a  stick,  and, 

105 


as  the  hole  gradually  fills,  we  take  particular  care 
that  there  is  no  space  left  just  underneath  the  main 
root  of  the  plant,  for  air  space  is  most  detrimental 
to  the  growth  of  the  rose.  Having  filled  up  the 
hole  to  the  ground  level  of  the  bed,  we  consider  the 
rose  to  be  planted,  and  proceed  to  the  next.  When 
the  first  hole  is  dug,  remove  the  earth  and  put  it 
beyond  the  stake  for  the  last  hole,  then  use  the  earth 
from  the  second  hole  to  fill  around  the  first  plant 
and  so  on;  this  saves  much  work  and  insures  keeping 
the  entire  bed  the  same  level. 

An  easy  way  to  get  your  approximate  two  and 
one-half  inches  below  the  ground  for  your  bud  is 
to  have  a  lath  or  other  straight  piece  of  wood,  in 
the  center  of  which  a  two  and  one-half  inch  measure 
is  nailed.  This  will  enable  you  to  secure  an  exact 
and  proper  depth  for  your  bud.  It  seems  as  if 
this  operation  should  be  very  simple,  and  it  is,  if 
the  main  points,  as  enumerated  above,  are  carefully 
and  absolutely  carried  out. 

These  rules  are  so  important  for  the  future  suc- 
cess of  your  plants  that  we  again  enumerate  them: 

First,  unpack  indoors  unless  weather  conditions 
are  absolutely  perfect. 

Second,  keep  the  roots  well  covered,  preferably 
with  moss  if  they  have  been  packed  in  it,  otherwise 
with  damp  earth,  or  coverings,  or  water. 

106 


PLANTING 

Third,  have  your  bucket  containing  a  mixture  of 
equal  parts  of  top  soil  and  bone  meal  to  place 
around  the  roots. 

Fourth,  take  plenty  of  time  in  digging  the  hole  to 
get  it  large  enough  and  wide  enough  at  the  bottom 
to  spread  the  roots  properly. 

Fifth,  do  not  let  the  roots  cross  one  another. 

Sixth,  plant  carefully  and  slowly,  tamping  down 
the  earth  with  a  stick,  making  sure  by  gently  raising 
and  lowering  as  the  earth  is  filled  in  that  no  air 
space  remains  below  the  main  part  of  the  root. 

Seventh,  do  not  place  the  bud  more  than  three 
inches  or  less  than  two  inches  from  the  finished 
surface  of  the  bed. 

If  it  is  impossible  to  finish  your  planting  in  any 
one  day  take  particular  care  of  the  remaining  roses. 
Keep  them  heeled  in  damp  earth,  or  if  the  season  is 
so  late  that  you  are  unable  to  do  this,  keep  them  well 
covered  indoors  with  soil.  It  is  very  easy  to  cover 
the  finished  beds  with  a  heavy  litter  of  manure 
and  straw  to  keep  the  frost  from  them.  If  a  quan- 
tity of  soil  is  mixed  and  kept  indoors  ready  for  use, 
holes  can  be  dug  and  the  plants  set  in  this  soil  as 
has  been  suggested  in  "  Location  and  Preparation." 
We  have  used  this  method  successfully  in  the  very 
late  autumn  and  at  the  end  of  the  winter.  If  plant- 
ing in  the  late  autumn,  it  is  well  to  protect  the  plants 

107 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

as  much  as  you  can.  The  best  way  to  do  this  is  to 
add  a  few  wheelbarrow  loads  of  soil  to  the  beds 
after  planting  and  make  little  mounds  around  each 
plant,  hilling  them  up  as  it  were,  and  then  covering 
these  with  litter.  If  this  is  done  the  coarse  litter 
should  be  removed  in  the  early  spring  and  the  fine 
manure  remaining  should  be  forked  carefully  into 
the  bed,  as  this  will  be  a  good  fertilizer  during  the 
summer.  In  autumn  planting  you  will  generally 
find  that  rose  plants  have  been  cut  back  to  about  a 
foot  from  the  ground,  and  if  this  is  the  case  leave 
them  as  they  are.  If,  however,  they  have  the  long, 
full  growth  they  had  when  taken  up  or  a  large  part 
of  it,  cut  back  to  a  foot  and  a  half. 


VII 
PRUNING 

PRUNING  is  one  of  the  most  important  parts  of 
rose  culture;  just  as  it  is  most  necessary  to  prepare 
the  ground  properly  and  to  plant  intelligently,  so 
also  should  one  be  certain  to  prune  systematically. 
The  whole  growth  of  the  plant  is  changed  by  the 
manner  of  its  pruning. 

Under  climbing  varieties  we  have  given  rules  for 
their  proper  care  and  in  this  chapter  we  will  take 
up  that  pruning  which  applies  to  all  the  roses  con- 
tained in  our  main  list.  It  is  an  easy  matter  when  the 
theory  of  it  is  understood.  Perhaps  the  simplest 
and  clearest  illustration  which  could  be  given  would 
be  to  suppose  a  rose  cane  has  fifteen  buds  or  eyes 
on  it;  from  these  buds  or  eyes  spring  the  shoots 
which  afterward  become  the  flower  stalks  of  the 
plant.  Now,  if  you  did  not  prune  at  all  but  left 
the  entire  cane,  the  sustenance  received  from  the 
roots  would  be  divided  into  fifteen  parts.  As  a 
matter  of  fact  the  greatest  amount  would  go  to  the 
end  or  top  of  the  cane  and  to  those  buds  nearest 
the  top,  for  in  all  plant  life  it  is  more  difficult  to  get 
the  sap  to  break  the  buds  nearest  the  base,  especially 

109 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

if  there  is  too  great  a  distance  from  that  base  to  the 
top  of  the  lateral,  limb,  or  cane. 

Roses  will  differ  in  growth  and  the  strongest 
growers  will  naturally  throw  out  more  buds  on  any 
given  length  of  cane  than  the  weaker.  In  addition 
to  this,  plants  of  low  spreading  growth,  whose  canes 
grow  more  or  less  parallel  to  the  ground,  do  not 
send  their  sap  as  quickly  to  the  ends  of  the  growth 
as  do  plants  whose  canes  are  more  upright.  For  this 
reason  different  varieties  require  somewhat  different 
pruning,  and  in  our  list  we  have  given  the  number 
of  eyes  or  buds  to  which  each  variety  should  be  cut 
back,  provided,  of  course,  the  wood  has  not  been 
winter  killed  below  the  point  indicated.  Returning 
to  the  theory  of  the  sap  and  the  illustration  of  the 
cane  with  fifteen  buds :  we  cut  off,  say,  ten  of  these 
buds  from  the  cane  and  the  five  remaining  will 
receive  just  so  much  more  sap  and  there  will  be  that 
much  more  chance  of  the  lowest  buds  breaking  and 
sending  out  their  shoots.  If  the  cane  were  not  cut 
the  greater  part  of  the  sap  would  go  to  the  few  top 
buds  and  the  lower  buds  would  be  late  in  growing, 
some  possibly  not  breaking  at  all.  Nature  prunes 
the  weaker  varieties  by  killing  back  a  portion  of 
their  wood,  thus  causing  them  to  throw  up  strong, 
new  canes. 

It  will  readily  be  understood  that  the  larger  the 

no 


PRUNING 

cane  and  the  hardier  and  more  vigorous  the  plant, 
the  more  buds  could  be  left  with  still  a  chance  for 
their  breaking;  conversely,  the  weaker  the  variety 
and  the  smaller  the  cane  the  less  sap  would  be 
contained  therein  and  the  fewer  buds  would  break 
and  grow  shoots  in  any  given  length  of  cane.  This 
is  the  main  theory  of  pruning  roses,  provided  that 
it  is  reasonable  quality,  and  not  quantity  without 
much  quality,  that  one  wants. 

The  average  rose  plant  in  its  second  year  should 
give  from  fifteen  to  fifty  blooms,  according  to  the 
variety,  if  it  is  cut  back  on  this  principle.  Shy 
bloomers  will  not  give  fifteen  flowers  and  the 
greater  number  of  these  will  be  borne  in  the  spring. 

Usually  a  good  bloomer  will  have  three  or  four 
flowering  periods,  the  most  profuse  being  in  the 
spring  and  early  fall.  Some  of  our  records  for  1914 
are  as  follows: 

Duchess  of  Wellington:  June,  thirteen  flowers; 
July,  eight  flowers;  August,  ten  flowers;  September, 
sixteen  flowers;  total  forty-seven. 

Madame  Leon  Pain:  June,  eleven  flowers;  July, 
six  flowers;  August,  eight  flowers;  September,  eight 
flowers;  total  thirty- three. 

Lady  Alice  Stanley  will  give  twenty-five  flowers; 
Killarney  a  few  more;  Mock  not  over  twenty; 
General  MacArthur  twenty-five. 

111 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

These  figures  are  made  from  average  plants,  not  se- 
lected specimens,  and  the  late  bloom  is  not  included. 

In  counting  blooms  only  those  with  fair  stems  are 
considered  and  the  usual  amount  of  disbudding  done. 

If  you  desire  more  blooms  of  poorer  quality  you 
should  not  prune  your  roses  as  far  back  as  suggested 
below.  They  will  also  require  a  certain  amount 
of  thinning  out  after  the  growing  season  starts  so 
that  the  various  shoots  do  not  crowd  each  other  too 
much.  Except  for  the  strongest  varieties  of  roses 
which  are  so  pruned  they  should  be  staked,  i.e.,  fas- 
tened to  a  stake  driven  firmly  into  the  ground.  If 
you  so  prune  and  stake  do  not  use  wire  but  tie  the 
bushes  to  the  stakes  with  soft  woolen  string.  This 
latter  course  of  pruning  is  usually  carried  out  with 
roses  of  the  bedding  type,  on  which  the  blooms  are 
seldom  fine  enough  for  cutting;  but  so  treated  the 
plants  form  a  mass  of  color  and  are  used  for  this 
reason  for  garden  decoration. 

The  best  and  usually  accepted  way  of  pruning 
roses  for  cutting  is  to  prune  for  the  finest  blooms. 
As  a  general  working  rule  prune  the  strongest  varie- 
ties to  five  buds  or  eyes,  about  six  to  ten  inches,  on 
the  main  strong  canes,  the  small  weaker  canes  being 
cut  to  three  or  four  eyes,  about  six  inches.  You 
can  always  make  your  plant  grow  in  whatever 
direction  you  wish  by  cutting  to  a  bud  which  leads 

112 


PRUNING 

in  the  desired  direction;  e.g.,  in  order  to  spread 
your  plant,  if  the  fifth  eye  is  on  the  inside  of  plant, 
cut  to  the  eye  above  it  if  is  a  large  cane,  for  the  eye 
above  is  on  the  outside  of  the  plant;  or  if  the  wood 
is  somewhat  smaller  and  weaker  than  the  other 
canes  on  the  plant  cut  to  the  outside  eye  below. 
In  this  way  your  plant  will  be  spread  out  and  the 
shoots  will  not  all  crowd  together  on  the  inside,  as 
would  be  the  case  if  you  cut  to  inside  eyes.  It  is 
always  better  to  cut  to  an  outside  bud;  although  in 
special  cases  where  you  wish  to  throw  a  shoot  in 
some  other  desired  direction  cut  to  the  bud  nearest 
the  space  you  wish  to  fill  with  the  new  growth. 
With  weaker  varieties  cut  to  three  and  four  eyes  on 
the  stronger-growing  canes,  and  to  two  and  three 
eyes  on  the  very  weak  ones.  Each  of  these  buds 
left  on  the  cane  should  throw  up  flower  stalks. 

In  addition  to  this  main  theory,  there  are  one  or 
two  other  points  which  it  is  necessary  to  consider  in 
pruning  plants.  They  should  not  be  too  much 
crowded  and  the  best  way  to  prevent  this  is  by 
cutting  out  the  weakest  growths.  At  first  it  may 
be  somewhat  difficult  for  one  to  be  sure  which  cane 
should  be  removed,  but  by  watching  the  plants 
after  growth  is  started  this  will  soon  be  readily 
understood.  An  absolute  rule  cannot  be  given  for 

the  number  of  canes  to  be  left,  but  there  must 
8  us 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

not  be  too  much  crowding,  particularly  in  the 
center  of  the  plant.  All  dead  wood  should  also  be 
removed.  This  can  be  easily  detected  and  it  should 
be  cut  back  to  its  junction  with  the  bud,  care  being 
taken  not  to  injure  the  bark  of  the  bud  and  to  make 
a  clean,  sharp  amputation. 

Quite  a  number  of  varieties  have  the  unfortunate 
habit  of  throwing  out  one  or  perhaps  two  very  large 
growths  on  one  side  of  the  plant,  the  opposite  side 
being  correspondingly  immature  and  weak.  In  such 
cases,  in  order  to  balance  the  plant,  particularly  for 
succeeding  years,  cut  back  the  one  or  two  large 
growths  very  "wickedly,"  one  or  two  eyes  being  the 
proper  distance.  Cut  out  all  but  the  best  of  the 
remaining  weaker  stems,  and  after  growth  has  com- 
menced do  not  allow  the  stalks  on  the  strong  canes 
to  get  beyond  control.  This  treatment  will  serve 
to  equalize  the  growths  on  such  plants.  In  England, 
where  the  cold  does  not  kill  back  the  canes  so  far, 
the  Hybrid  Teas  are  pruned  to  a  greater  number  of 
eyes.  Pemberton,  for  example,  advises  leaving  Caro- 
line Testout  from  two  to  three  feet,  but  in  our  climate 
this  rose  would  be  killed  back  to  from  four  to  eight 
inches  and  in  the  north  to  an  even  greater  degree. 

Pruning  is  usually  done  after  the  main  body  of 
frost  has  left  the  ground.  Where  frost  does  not 
occur  the  pruning  should  be  done  at  the  season  of 

114 


PRUNING 

the  year  when  the  buds  commence  to  break;  even  in 
climates  where  there  is  no  frost  roses  will  have  a 
dormant  season,  and  the  time  the  buds  begin  to 
break  will  be  the  proper  time  to  prune  in  such  local- 
ities. Usually  in  such  climates  the  dormant  season 
of  the  rose  is  the  time  during  which  it  does  not  get 
any  water,  that  is,  during  the  dry  season.  With  the 
return  of  the  rains  the  dormant  plant  commences 
further  growth.  This  refers,  of  course,  to  climates 
in  which  there  is  practically  no  whiter,  i.e.,  no 
frost. 

When  the  buds  begin  to  push  out  on  all  the  living 
wood,  the  operator  can  more  readily  see  exactly 
how  much  wood  is  dead  and  which  needs  to  be 
thinned  out,  and  just  how  much  wood  is  living  on 
each  cane;  therefore  this  is  the  best  time  in  which 
to  prune  roses  in  all  climates. 

In  the  spring  pruning  it  will  sometimes  be  found 
that  canes  of  the  weaker  varieties  have  died  back 
after  a  very  severe  winter  to  a  smaller  number  of 
buds  than  above  noted  or  given  in  our  list,  though 
these  exceptions  should  be  rare.  If  the  wood  has 
died  back  to  any  extent  you  will,  of  necessity,  be 
forced  to  prune  to  the  first  good  bud  or  eye  below  the 
winter  killed  portion  without  reference  to  the  num- 
ber of  buds,  even  if  the  cane  is  shorter  than  that 
left  by  the  usual  system.  This  information  is  a 

115 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

general  working  rule.  There  are  some  few  varieties 
which,  on  account  of  their  peculiar  growth,  should 
be  pruned  differently,  and  to  cover  this  point 
thoroughly  we  have  noted  in  our  main  list  the  num- 
ber of  eyes  to  which  each  variety  should  be  pruned, 
the  number  so  given  referring  to  the  strongest  canes; 
on  the  weaker  ones  you  will,  of  course,  cut  to  a  less 
number  of  eyes. 

In  order  that  the  rules  which  we  have  given  for 
pruning  may  be  more  thoroughly  understood  the 
system  is  illustrated  in  Figs.  4  and  5  herewith  given. 
The  first  is  a  Hybrid  Tea  rose  which  was  not  pruned 
in  the  spring  but  was  allowed  to  develop.  The 
second  is  the  same  plant  properly  pruned. 

Fig.  4  shows  the  plant  photographed  after  it  was 
taken  from  the  ground.  On  stem  "A,"  in  particular, 
it  will  be  noted  that  none  of  the  lower  buds  have 
pushed  but  that  the  top  buds  are  well  developed. 
This  carries  out  exactly  our  theory  that  on  a  long, 
weak  stem  the  sap  will  go  to  the  top  buds  only. 
To  properly  prune  this  weakest  stem  it  should  be 
cut  off  to  two  buds  as  is  shown  in  Fig.  5.  On  stem 
"B,"  which  is  somewhat  stronger,  it  will  be  noted 
that  the  lower  buds  have  pushed,  owing  to  some 
extent  to  the  fact  that  this  stem  is  not  so  long. 
Fig.  5  shows  that  we  have  pruned  stem  "B"  to  the 
third  bud,  which  is  on  the  outside.  The  first  bud 

116 


Fia.  4 
HYBRID  TEA  ROSE,  NOT  PRUNED  BUT  ALLOWED  TO  DEVELOP 


I-HJ.  .5 
SAME  ROSE  AS  FIG.  4  PROPERLY  PRUNED 


PRUNING 

is  dormant  and  does  not  show  clearly  in  the  illustra- 
tion. Cane  "C"  on  Fig.  4  should  be  pruned  in 
exactly  the  same  way,  cut  to  the  third  bud  on  the 
outside,  and  this  is  done  in  Fig.  5.  Cane  "D"  in 
Fig.  4  is  undoubtedly  the  one  which  should  be 
removed,  as  it  crowds  the  center  of  the  plant,  and 
in  Fig.  5  this  stem  has  been  cut  out.  You  will  note 
how  much  more  space  is  left  for  the  balance  of  the 
growth,  particularly  for  the  strong  lowest  shoot  of 
"E."  "E"  in  Fig.  4  should  be  cut  to  the  fourth 
bud  on  the  outside,  and  this  is  shown  in  Fig.  5. 
"F"  is  undoubtedly  the  strongest  cane  and  on  its 
whole  length  the  young  shoots  have  started  vigor- 
ous spring  growth.  You  cut  "  F  "  to  five  eyes  as 
in  Fig.  5.  Had  this  plant  (Fig.  4)  been  pruned  in 
the  early  spring  the  dormant  buds  on  "A"  and  the 
lower  buds  on  "B"  and  "C"  would  have  been 
forced  into  growth,  bat  as  the  stems  were  left  long, 
the  sap  went  to  the  top  of  these  weaker  growing 
canes.  If  cane  "F"  had  been  somewhat  larger, 
and  "B,"  "C,"  and  "E"  had  been  as  small  or 
smaller  canes  than  "A,"  the  plant  would  have  been 
too  one-sided  and  it  would  have  been  necessary  to 
have  cut  "F"  back  certainly  to  the  third  bud,  which 
is  on  the  outside,  possibly  to  its  lower  bud  to  equalize 
the  growth;  but  in  this  instance  the  three  remaining 
canes  in  the  center,  "B,"  "C,"  and  "E,"  are  nearly 

117 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

as  large  as  "F,"  and  the  cane  "A"  by  being  cut 
back  to  its  second  eye  should  throw  out  strong 
growths,  as  the  two  buds  remaining  will  secure  all 
of  the  sap  of  this  stalk. 

These  instructions  are  given  for  general  work  to 
secure  the  greatest  number  of  fine  blooms.  Natu- 
rally, if  a  person  wishes  exhibition  blooms,  such 
roses  as  he  could  exhibit  with  a  chance  of  taking  a 
prize  at  a  rose  show,  and  he  is  willing  to  be  satis- 
fied with  only  a  few  of  these,  we  would  suggest 
after  growth  has  started  and  the  shoots  have  broken, 
that  he  again  go  carefully  over  his  plants  and  cut 
out  all  weak  growths,  keeping  only  the  most  promis- 
ing shoots  of  the  most  vigorous  canes.  It  will 
generally  be  necessary,  in  order  to  secure  this  result, 
to  cut  back  to  two  shoots,  but  with  a  particularly 
vigorous  and  promising  growth  you  may  leave  more, 
in  which  case,  however,  you  must  cut  off  the  weaker 
growths  below — in  other  words,  following  out  our 
first  theory,  the  fewer  buds  the  more  sap  to  each. 

The  English  custom  for  exhibition  varieties,  as  a 
general  rule,  is  to  wait  until  the  flowers  have  been 
formed  and  then  to  cut  out  such  growths  as  are  not 
required,  mainly  because  they  are  not  promising, 
and  to  allow  all  the  vitality  contained  in  the  sap  to 
go  to  the  blooms  which  are  left.  Such  blooms, 
receiving  all  the  nourishment,  tend  to  be  larger  and 

118 


PRUNING 

more  perfect  than  the  average  flowers.  However, 
they  do  not  surpass  the  average  bloom  recommended 
to  any  marked  degree,  and  they  cut  down  the  num- 
ber of  flowers  so  greatly  that  they  are  not  worth  the 
sacrifice  they  entail  except  for  exhibition  purposes. 

The  bush  should  be  carefully  and  thoroughly 
pruned  according  to  the  rules  given  above,  an 
additional  and  very  necessary  point  being  that  the 
cut  ought  to  be  made  not  less  than  one-quarter  of 
an  inch  above  the  bud  and  not  more  than  one-half 
of  an  inch  from  it.  The  cut  should  not  be  straight 
across,  that  is,  parallel  with  the  ground,  but  should 
be  slanting.  This  will  keep  the  water  from  rotting 
out  the  wood  too  quickly  before  the  bud  starts 
and  the  shoots  are  established.  In  other  words, 
one  might  say  that  the  cut  would  drain  off  water 
like  a  roof  on  a  miniature  house.  The  cut  should 
be  clean.  An  ordinary  pair  of  gardening  pruning 
shears  is  the  best  implement  for  this  work.  These 
shears  must  be  kept  sharp,  otherwise  they  leave  rough 
edges  and  bruise  the  bark,  which  then  will  not  heal. 

The  most  comfortable  way  in  which  to  prune  is 
to  have  a  heavy  square  of  carpet  placed  on  the 
ground  on  which  one  may  either  sit  or  kneel.  It  is 
impossible  to  do  any  great  amount  of  pruning  unless 
some  such  method  is  used;  to  keep  the  dampness 
from  coming  through  the  carpet  should  be  doubled 

119 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

over  at  least  once.  Persons  having  trouble  with 
their  eyes  should  be  very  careful  to  use  their  glasses 
in  this  work,  as  more  minute  attention  is  required 
than  one  would  think.  The  foregoing  suggestions 
apply  mainly  to  a  large  amount  of  pruning,  but  even 
where  the  plants  are  few  it  would  perhaps  be  best  to 
employ  this  method,  as  the  operation  would  certainly 
be  much  more  comfortable.  In  all  pruning  a  pair  of 
heavy  gloves  will  be  found  a  necessary  protection. 

In  the  autumn  the  only  pruning  necessary  is  to 
cut  down  the  bushes  so  that  the  fibrous  feeding 
roots  will  not  be  broken  by  the  thrashing  about  of 
the  tops  hi  the  heavy  winter  winds.  It  is  quite 
easy  to  cut  down  to  an  approximate  height  until 
the  early  spring  pruning,  and  when  the  plants  have 
done  blooming  and  the  frost  has  set  in  severely  we 
would  suggest  that  they  be  cut  to  an  approximate 
height  of  one  foot  and  a  half,  except  in  strongest 
growing  kinds  and  climbers.  Do  not  cut  to  less.  The 
buds  liable  to  break  are  upper  buds,  and  if  forced 
in  a  warm,  late  autumn  or  early  spring,  after  break- 
ing they  will  certainly  winter  kill.  If  left  short  there 
are  not  enough  buds  remaining  below  to  carry  out 
the  scheme  of  pruning;  if  left  longer,  no  harm  is  done. 

Under  pruning  it  is  well  to  include  the  cutting  of 
the  bloom.  This  is  a  part  of  rose  culture  which  is 
usually  neither  considered  nor  understood.  It  is 

120 


PRUNING 

not  easy  to  regulate  by  actual  rule  but  if  the  principle 
is  understood  the  proper  cutting  of  roses  is  a  very 
easy  matter.  In  this,  as  in  spring  pruning,  the 
method  to  be  employed  depends  entirely  upon  what 
is  desired.  Cutting  off  the  blooms  insures  more. 
If  they  are  not  cut  new  growth  will  not  start  so 
quickly.  For  this  reason  it  is  advisable  to  pinch  off 
any  blooms  which  may  have  been  left  on  the  plants. 
This  should  be  particularly  noted  with  all  bedding 
varieties  which  are  kept  for  garden  decoration  and 
are  not  usually  cut.  If  a  stem  is  left  and  the  seed 
pod  forms  it  takes  the  greater  part  of  the  nourish- 
ment on  any  shoot,  the  sap  going  to  the  top  as  has 
been  previously  noted.  Nature  thus  provides  for 
the  greatest  amount  of  sustenance  going  to  the 
seed  pod.  By  autumn,  if  blooms  are  not  cut  but 
pinched,  you  will  have  a  very  much  larger  plant 
than  if  the  blooms  had  been  cut,  and  the  plant  has 
perhaps  somewhat  better  foliage.  But  with  us  the 
cutting  of  flowers  is  a  great  pleasure  and  we  like 
to  have  them  in  the  house  as  well  as  to  see  them 
on  the  bushes,  so  that  the  great  majority  of  our 
blooms  are  cut  and,  after  the  method  of  pruning 
which  we  have  advocated,  mostly  with  long  stems. 
If  this  is  what  you  want  you  must  be  a  little  careful 
in  the  cutting  of  your  stems  to  leave  enough  buds 
below  the  cut  on  the  shoot  from  which  you  are 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

taking  your  flower  to  provide  other  shoots,  which 
will  later  in  the  season  give  you  more  blooms.  On 
the  stronger  varieties  in  the  June  blooming  season, 
on  a  Hybrid  Tea  rose  or  a  rose  which  you  expect 
to  bloom  further,  you  should  leave  enough  buds  to 
give  shoots  for  summer  and  for  autumn  bloom. 
Therefore  in  such  cuttings  we  would  suggest  leaving 
never  less  than  two  buds  at  the  base  of  the  shoot, 
and  with  very  strong  varieties  three  buds,  always 
seeing  that  the  bud  you  cut  back  to  is  a  strong  one. 
If  you  cut  leaving  a  long  stem  you  may,  perhaps, 
get  more  flowers  but  they  will  not  be  on  such  stal- 
wart stems,  nor  will  they  produce  as  fine  blooms. 
If  you  are  cutting  from  a  Hybrid  Perpetual,  or  from 
a  rose  from  which  you  do  not  expect  to  secure  more 
bloom,  to  cut  to  one  bud  will  be  sufficient.  In  this 
cutting  of  blooms,  the  same  as  in  pruning,  you  can 
follow  the  well-known  theory  that  on  a  weak  growth 
you  can  cut  farther  back  than  on  a  strong  growth. 
Approximately  on  an  average  growth  we  would 
leave,  as  above  stated,  two  buds  on  the  constantly- 
blooming  varieties.  In  late  fall  cutting  it  will  be 
unnecessary  to  leave  any  buds  below  the  cut  as 
there  will  be  no  more  bloom  after  frost.  In  the 
weak  kinds,  with  the  frail,  drooping  stems,  perhaps 
you  do  not  wish  all  of  the  stem  cut  to  remain  on 
your  bloom,  but  you  certainly  do  not  wish  it  to 


PRUNING 

remain  on  the  plant;  therefore  cut  harder  on  the 
weak  growths  and  afterwards  reduce  the  length  of 
the  stem  to  suit  your  fancy.  Unless  you  have 
hybridized,  or  wish  to  try  raising  seed  from  chance 
fertilization,  you  do  not  need  the  seed  pods  or  heps 
to  develop,  and  if  twice  a  week  during  the  blooming 
season  you  pick  all  old  blooms  from  your  plants 
you  will  not  only  keep  the  beds  in  better  order  but 
secure  more  flowers  thereafter. 

Spring  pruning  as  given  here  applies  to  roses 
after  the  first  year.  For  the  first  year  they  should 
all  be  cut  back  to  three  eyes  on  good  wood  and  one 
eye  in  weak  wood.  This  gives  the  young,  unestab- 
lished  roots  less  work  to  do  and  provides  more  time 
for  them  to  prepare  for  the  following  year. 

In  pruning  other  varieties  not  mentioned  in  our 
list,  and  neither  Hybrid  Teas,  Hybrid  Perpetuals, 
nor  Teas,  the  main  work  to  be  done  is  always  to  cut 
out  all  the  dead  wood.  This,  of  course,  also  applies 
to  the  list.  Moderate  pruning  only  is  necessary  and 
the  same  theories  which  we  have  advanced  for  our 
list  will  be  found  to  give  good  results  for  other  roses, 
with  the  exception  of  the  climbers  and  those  specially 
mentioned. 

To  go  over  the  main  points,  the  theories  which 
we  have  tried  to  bring  out  hi  this  chapter  are: 
prune  when  the  new  growth  can  be  plainly  noted; 

123 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

for  medium  fine  blooms  prune  the  strong  varieties 
on  the  strongest  canes  to  five  and  six  eyes;  weaker 
canes  to  a  smaller  number.  On  the  weaker  varie- 
ties prune  to  three  and  four  eyes  on  the  strong  canes; 
two  and  three  eyes  on  the  weaker  ones.  If  you  wish 
more  blooms  and  do  not  care  so  much  for  quality, 
desiring  the  bushes  to  be  more  of  a  garden  decora- 
tion, do  not  prune  quite  so  far  down  the  canes.  If 
you  want  only  a  few  exhibition  blooms,  cut  harder, 
and,  later  in  the  season,  thin  out  unnecessary  and 
unpromising  growths.  For  all  plants  cut  out  dead 
wood.  In  cutting  roses  during  the  spring  and  summer 
never  leave  less  than  two  eyes  on  any  stem  which 
you  cut.  This  gives  you  summer  and  autumn 
blooms.  On  the  very  strongest  varieties  cut  to 
three  eyes — always  cut  to  a  strong  eye.  Be  sure 
that  your  cut  is  a  clean  one  and  slanting,  and  from 
one-quarter  to  one-half  an  inch  above  the  bud. 
Always  cut  to  outside  buds,  unless  for  some  par- 
ticular reason  you  wish  to  have  the  plant  grow  in 
some  other  direction. 

In  all  pruning  remember  the  working  rule  and  so 
accomplish  your  purpose;  the  fewer  buds  you  leave 
to  break  the  more  sap  they  will  receive,  and  the 
more  buds  you  leave  the  smaller  amount  of  sap 
each  one  will  get,  and  also  that  the  buds  near  the 
base  may  not  break. 


VIII 
CULTIVATION 

IF  you  have  followed  the  directions  given  in  this 
book  for  location,  preparation  of  bed,  ordering, 
planting  and  pruning,  your  really  hard  work  is  over 
and  the  most  pleasant  part  is  before  you.  The 
actual  culture  of  the  rose  is  very  easy  and  agreeable. 
Beyond  a  little  spring  and  autumn  care,  some 
spraying  and  the  weeding  of  the  beds,  there  is  not 
much  work  to  be  done.  In  the  spring,  after  the 
frost  is  out  of  the  ground,  you  should  have  taken 
off  the  covering  of  your  bed,  whether  it  be  litter  or 
only  leaves.  The  little  mounds  should  now  be  raked 
down  so  that  the  bed  is  level,  and  if  your  roses  were 
covered  with  litter  the  greater  part  of  it,  especially 
the  straw,  should  be  removed,  and  the  manure 
that  is  left  should  be  well  forked  into  the  bed. 
After  the  roses  are  pruned,  the  next  thing  which 
should  occupy  your  attention  is  the  feeding  of 
the  plants  in  order  to  give  a  particularly  fine 
growth. 

In  the  bed  itself,  of  course,  you  have  enough 
manure  to  furnish  the  roots  with  food  for  many 
years,  but  to  secure  the  best  results  you  should 

125 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

also  feed  the  roots  from  the  surface.  Wood  ashes 
and  bone  meal  may  be  alternately  forked  into  the 
bed  after  growth  has  begun.  Another  good  food  is 
liquid  manure  water  in  the  proportion  of  half  a 
bushel  of  manure  to  a  barrel  of  water — "weak  and 
often"  is  the  old  gardener's  recipe. 

Blood  diluted  with  water  is  sometimes  used.  Mr. 
Frederick  W.  Taylor  uses  this  alternately  with 
manure  water;  his  recipe  is  five  pounds  of  blood  to 
a  barrel  of  water.  After  mixing,  permit  the  blood  to 
settle,  then  draw  off  the  greater  part  of  the  water; 
use  the  same  blood  in  the  same  manner  twice  again, 
five  pounds  making  three  mixtures. 

In  April  or  May  the  shoots  should  begin  to  grow, 
and  very  shortly  the  buds  themselves  will  appear 
and  gradually  turn  into  blooms.  On  certain  varie- 
ties, too  few  unfortunately,  there  is  only  one  ter- 
minal bud  on  each  growth;  on  a  great  many  you  will 
find  small  buds  appearing  close  to  the  larger  ones; 
these  should  be  gone  over  and  carefully  removed  if 
you  wish  the  finest  blooms,  as  naturally  they  take 
a  certain  amount  of  sustenance,  and  the  main  bloom 
will  develop  better  and  will  be  of  finer  quality  if  it 
receives  all  the  nourishment.  It  does  not  take  very 
long  to  go  over  your  plants  and  disbud  all  these 
smaller  flower  buds,  and  unless  you  wish  nothing 
but  a  mass  of  color  in  your  beds  our  advice  is  to 


CULTIVATION 

remove  them.  The  easiest  way  is  to  pull  them  off 
carefully  with  the  thumb  and  forefinger,  and  in 
doing  so  see  that  you  do  not  take  hold  of  anything 
but  the  bud  to  be  removed.  This  can  be  easily  and 
quickly  done. 

You  will  now  find  to  your  consternation,  if  you 
are  a  novice  in  rose  growing,  that  all  your  young 
buds  and  leaves  are  covered  with  little,  light  green 
insects — Green  Flies  or  Aphides,  which  are  common 
pests  in  rose  gardens.  There  is,  however,  a  very 
effective  remedy  for  them  which,  if  properly  applied, 
will  greatly  check  their  future  development;  this  is 
to  spray,  with  an  ordinary  spraying  outfit  (secured 
at  any  seed  store),  a  solution  of  tobacco  stems  and 
whale  oil  soap.  The  proportions  of  this  mixture 
which  we  have  found  to  be  best  on  our  place  are  as 
follows:  One  pound  of  tobacco  stems  to  a  bucket 
of  water,  to  which  add  an  ounce  of  whale  oil  soap, 
first  dissolved  in  a  small  quantity  of  hot  water.  It 
will  take  about  three  hours  for  this  to  dissolve.  It 
should  then  be  added  to  the  tobacco  mixture.  This 
is  an  easy  preparation  to  remember:  one  bucket  of 
water,  one  pound  of  tobacco  stems  and  one  ounce 
of  the  whale  oil  soap;  the  two  latter-named  articles 
can  be  readily  secured  at  any  seed  store.  The 
Aphides  are  quickly  destroyed  with  this  spray  and 
a  gallon  of  the  mixture  by  careful  application  is 

127 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

enough  for  from  fifteen  to  twenty-five  rose  plants; 
by  applying  with  an  ordinary  whisk  broom  it  will 
take  care  of  fifty  plants  and  can  be  done  as  well, 
but  it  requires  more  time  in  applying  than  with 
the  sprayer. 

By  this  time  the  ground  will  naturally  need  weed- 
ing. It  seems  hardly  necessary  to  go  into  details 
regarding  the  proper  method.  An  ordinary  scratch 
hoe,  as  the  gardener  terms  it,  will  quickly  take  out 
the  weeds  and  also  destroy  some  of  those  not  yet 
up.  Care  must  be  taken  not  to  hurt  the  rose  roots. 
This  is  really  a  very  simple  operation,  and  any 
gardener  can  do  this  if  you  do  not  care  to  do  it 
yourself.  Your  roses  are  now  in  bloom  and  you 
are  cutting  them  carefully  and  no  doubt  having 
much  pleasure  in  seeing  them  about  the  house  and 
giving  them  to  visitors. 

As  the  days  become  warmer  and  the  ground 
drier  you  must  take  more  care  of  the  plants.  You 
should  keep  the  earth  broken  up  in  the  beds  and  not 
permit  it  to  form  a  hard  cake  or  crust,  as  it  will  do 
if  left  alone.  This  breaking  up  should  be  done 
twice  a  week.  In  addition  to  this  you  must  consider 
feeding  your  roses  further  if  you  want  the  very 
best  blooms.  For  this  purpose  ordinary  manure 
water,  as  described  above,  is  the  best  possible  food 
and  perhaps  easiest  to  secure  in  most  places.  When 

128 


CULTIVATION 

the  roses  are  fully  formed,  withhold  manure  water 
until  after  the  first  crop,  apply  again  as  each  suc- 
ceeding crop  of  buds  commences  to  develop.  Roses 
need  a  slight  rest  between  crops.  If  you  have 
placed  the  blanket  of  peat  moss  on  your  beds,  which 
was  recommended  in  a  former  chapter,  there  will 
be  very  little  weeding  and  no  breaking  up  of  dried 
earth  necessary  and  the  moisture  should  be  well 
conserved  in  your  beds.  We  recommend  that  this 
covering  be  put  on  and  believe  that  it  will  save 
labor  and  greatly  aid  the  growth  of  the  plant  by 
keeping  the  ground  at  a  much  more  even  tempera- 
ture than  it  would  be  otherwise.  The  first  of  May 
would  seem  about  the  proper  time  for  the  peat  moss. 

Watering  is  necessary  in  very  dry  weather  if 
your  ground  becomes  thoroughly  baked,  but  you 
should  never  water  your  plants  late  in  the  day.  The 
plants  should  go  to  sleep  with  dry  foliage,  otherwise 
mildew  will  develop.  Roses  should  always  be 
watered  early  in  the  morning  before  the  temperature 
rises — it  is  unnatural  to  water  them  during  heat — 
they  are  accustomed  to  cool  temperature  with  rain. 
Mildew  is  a  disease  of  the  leaves  which  appears 
when  there  is  too  much  moisture.  The  use  of 
peat  moss  will  render  watering  to  some  extent 
unnecessary. 

One  other  plague  for  which  you  must  watch  is 

9  129 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

the  rose  slug,  which  chews  the  leaves.  This  pest 
must  be  destroyed  by  a  stronger  preparation  than 
tobacco  leaves,  as  it  is  very  hardy  and  not  as  quickly 
disposed  of  as  the  little  green  bug.  Lemon  oil  is 
considered  a  good  remedy  and  we  have  proved  its 
efficiency.  It  also  can  be  taken  care  of  by  mixing 
whale  oil  soap,  already  referred  to,  and  water,  in  the 
proportion  of  about  an  ounce  to  a  gallon  of  water. 
The  very  best  remedy,  however,  is  powdered  white 
hellebore.  Make  a  solution  of  two  tablespoonfuls 
in  a  bucket  of  boiling  water,  and  after  it  has  cooled 
apply  it  with  a  whisk  broom  under  the  leaves. 

These  directions  are  really  all  that  are  necessary 
to  raise  roses  successfully,  except  that  you  must 
watch  carefully  for  any  sprouts  of  the  Manetti  or 
other  stock,  on  which  the  roses  themselves  are 
budded  or  grafted.  As  explained  in  the  chapter  on 
propagation,  these  shoots  are  a  lighter-colored  green 
than  the  average  foliage  of  roses,  and  have  seven 
leaves  instead  of  three  or  five,  in  addition  to  which 
the  wood  itself  is  covered  with  little  prickles.  You 
will  not  find  many  of  these,  though  after  looking 
for  a  tune  and  not  seeing  any  you  will  believe  that 
they  probably  will  not  appear  at  all,  when  suddenly 
some  morning  you  will  be  surprised  to  find  a  tall, 
light  green  shoot  on  the  outside  of  one  of  your  rose 
bushes  which  you  have  heretofore  not  noticed.  The 

130 


CULTIVATION 

cutting  off  of  this  shoot  from  the  root  itself  is  the 
proper  remedy  for  this  enemy  to  the  growth  of  your 
plant. 

Rose  bugs  or  beetles  are  really  the  worst  pests 
which  you  have  to  endure.  They  are  quite  large 
and  it  is  most  annoying  to  find  these  destructive 
insects  on  your  beautiful  blooms.  The  best  way  is 
to  pick  them  off  by  hand.  This,  if  done  thoroughly 
when  they  commence  to  appear,  is  really  the  only 
sure  method  of  ridding  one's  rose  gardens  of  these 
miserable  pests.  We  have  tried  a  number  of  sprays 
which  have  undoubtedly  helped  to  some  extent,  but 
it  is  much  more  thorough  to  go  around  and  actually 
remove  and  destroy  the  bugs  yourself — pick  them 
off,  drop  them  into  a  can  of  kerosene  and  they  are 
gone. 

At  the  end  of  this  chapter  will  be  found  a  list  of 
recipes  for  the  diseases  of  roses. 

So  your  plants  work  on  through  the  hotter  part 
of  the  summer  and  now  towards  its  close  the  nights 
commence  to  become  cooler  and  the  days  are  still 
quite  warm;  the  air  itself  is  very  moist  and  humid. 
This  occurs  usually  in  the  latter  part  of  August, 
and  this  change  from  eighty  degrees  or  more  in  the 
daytime  to  sixty  degrees  or  less  in  the  night  is  one 
which  the  rose  foliage  does  not  like.  When  there  is 
also  great  humidity  mildew  is  liable  to  occur.  A 

131 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

good  remedy  is  grape  dust,  which  can  be  obtained 
in  any  seed  store  or  from  any  nurseryman  with 
directions  for  use.  Another  remedy  is  a  solution  of 
sulphide  of  potassium,  one-quarter  of  an  ounce  to  a 
gallon  of  water,  to  which  add  one  and  one-half 
ounces  of  common  soft  soap.  The  soap  should  be 
boiled  before  being  added  to  the  solution.  This  is 
the  cure  we  prefer. 

Black  spot  is  another  disease  which  sometimes 
comes  towards  the  end  of  the  summer.  We  have 
experienced  it  mostly  in  potted  greenhouse  plants 
and  we  advise  against  planting  roses  from  pots,  as 
each  time  we  have  done  so  black  spot  has  resulted. 
If  we  plant  only  dormant  field-grown  stock  we 
do  not  have  this  disease.  Dr.  Huey  concurs  in 
this  opinion  and,  as  a  cure,  advocates  picking  off 
such  leaves  as  are  affected  as  soon  as  they  appear. 
Last  year  we  used  a  formaldehyde  solution  with 
fair  success,  but  black  spot  is  most  difficult  to 
eradicate. 

The  "  American  Florist,"  in  its  issue  of  June  14, 
1914,  has  a  very  interesting  article  on  black  spot 
treatment,  taken  from  publications  of  the  National 
Rose  Society  of  England.  The  main  point  in  the 
article  is  that  black  spot  is  a  fungous  disease  which 
invades  the  living  tissues  of  the  plant  and  there 
reproduces  itself  by  means  of  spores  on  the  leaves. 

132 


CULTIVATION 

To  combat  the  disease  formaldehyde  is  suggested 
and  is  supposed  to  be  absorbed  by  the  tissues  of 
the  plant  and  to  kill  the  spores  on  the  leaves. 
This  article  further  states  that  it  is  considered 
advisable  to  use  the  formaldehyde  as  a  spray  not 
only  on  the  leaves  and  stems,  but  also  to  have  the 
solution  reach  the  plant  through  the  soil.  To 
accomplish  this  result  it  is  advised  that  "the  cool 
of  a  calm  evening  in  summer  when  the  soil  had  been 
previously  loosened,  and  moistened  if  necessary, 
would  be  ideal."  In  the  treatment  referred  to  above 
it  is  necessary,  in  order  to  secure  the  proper  results, 
to  spray  as  soon  as  the  buds  begin  to  open  early  in 
the  spring,  and  for  this  early  spraying  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  commercial  formaldehyde  are  diluted 
in  a  gallon  of  water;  for  later  spraying  when  the 
plant  is  in  full  growth  one-half  strength  is  used,  i.e., 
one  tablespoonful  to  a  gallon  of  water,  and  the 
weaker  spray  used  at  intervals  of  a  week  or  ten  days 
through  the  growing  season.  Where  black  spot 
has  gained  a  firm  hold  on  the  plants,  it  is  also 
advocated  that  a  solution  of  double  strength  be  used 
in  February. 

As  the  nights  become  still  colder  your  blooms 
will,  of  course,  take  longer  to  develop  and  you  can- 
not expect  as  much  from  your  bushes;  nevertheless 
the  roses  still  make  a  fight  to  give  you  flowers  and 

133 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

you  will  nearly  always  be  able  to  pick  them  from 
the  late  bloomers  until  about  the  middle  of  Novem- 
ber. We  have  picked  roses  until  Thanksgiving,  and 
during  the  past  year  even  later.  From  the  middle 
to  the  last  of  November  is  the  time  roses  should  be 
given  proper  winter  protection. 

The  first  thing  to  do  with  all  ordinary  bushes  is 
to  cut  them  down  to  an  approximate  height  of  a  foot 
and  a  half.  They  will  nearly  all  die  down  to  this 
height  or  below  in  any  event,  and  by  cutting  off  the 
bushy  tops  damage  by  high  wind  is  prevented. 
The  peat  moss  should  at  this  time  be  removed  and 
saved  for  the  following  spring. 

The  matter  of  hilling  up  has  been  noted,  but  is  so 
important  that  we  will  give  the  description  again. 
It  consists  of  heaping  the  ground  up  around  the 
bush.  It  is  well  to  add  some  top  soil  to  the  bed 
and  hoe  this  up  in  a  little  mound  around  each  plant 
to  a  height  not  less  than  six  inches  above  the  bed 
level. 

With  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals  and  the  very  hardiest 
of  the  Hybrid  Teas  this  hilling  up  is  not  really 
necessary,  but  there  are  very  many  beautiful  varie- 
ties which  can  be  brought  through  the  winter  by 
this  method  only. 

After  the  roses  are  hilled  up,  wait  until  the  ground 
freezes  before  placing  the  litter  on  the  beds.  No 

134 


CULTIVATION 

insects  or  mice  will  then  inhabit  it  during  the  winter 
and  injure  the  green  wood  of  the  canes.  Another 
good  way  is  to  fill  the  spaces  between  the  little 
mounds  with  autumn  leaves  or  meadow  hay,  with 
enough  earth  spread  over  the  top  to  keep  them  from 
blowing  away.  This  is  an  easy  method  and  undoubt- 
edly adds  warmth  to  the  beds. 

After  the  winter  is  over  it  is  better  to  remove  the 
litter  or  leaves  too  early  rather  than  too  late,  be- 
cause they  will  rapidly  heat  up  under  the  influence 
of  the  warm  spring  sun  and  the  buds  of  the  rose 
canes  will  be  forced  into  breaking  too  early,  when 
any  later  heavy  frost  will  severely  kill  back  the 
young  shoots  so  started  by  the  heat.  It  is  therefore 
advisable  to  take  this  covering  from  the  roses  when 
the  frost  is  out  of  the  ground  and  before  the  heat  of 
the  sun  becomes  great  and  lasting. 

Standard  roses  should  be  most  carefully  protected. 
We  have  lost  during  the  winter  about  twenty  per 
cent,  of  our  plants;  at  best  from  ten  to  twenty  per 
cent,  lost  has  been  our  average  of  these  in  the  strong- 
est varieties,  even  when  winter  protection  was  given. 

We  believe  that  you  will  not  have  ten  per  cent, 
of  deaths  if  you  give  these  very  attractive  standards 
proper  winter  protection.  Try  placing  around  them 
a  rough  box  made  of  boards  and  filling  it  with  earth, 
covering  well  above  the  junction  of  the  strong 

135 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

growing  stalk  with  the  rose  itself.  Mr.  Frederick 
W.  Taylor  recommends  making  this  box  at  least 
two  feet  square,  and  filling  it  with  tightly  packed 
earth  from  the  ground  level  to  the  top  of  the 
plant  above  the  bud.  Another  good  method  often 
used  is  to  bend  down  the  entire  plant  after  care- 
fully loosening  the  roots  and  to  place  it  in  a 
trench  and  cover  it  heavily  with  earth.  We  have 
tried  protecting  standards  with  old  pieces  of  carpet, 
carefully  wrapped  around  the  upper  part  of  the 
plants  only,  but  find  that  the  method  of  actually 
encasing  the  entire  plant  with  earth  is  the  best. 

Most  Wichuraiana  and  other  climbers  will  come 
through  the  winter  well  by  themselves.  Others, 
however,  winter  kill  more  or  less,  not  enough  to 
kill  the  plant  itself  but  to  destroy  parts  of  the  main 
stems.  The  Wichuraiana  climbers  bloom  upon  the 
wood  of  the  preceding  year,  and  if  such  wood  is 
lacking  and  the  rose  has  to  throw  up  new  shoots 
there  will  be  no  bloom.  If  the  main  shoots  are  killed 
back  the  few  existing  blooms  will  be  low  down,  so 
that  in  the  far  north  it  would  be  well  to  bend  down 
the  canes  and  protect  them  with  the  usual  blanket 
of  earth.  Ordinarily  where  climbers  are  protected 
from  the  north  and  particularly  the  northwest  winds, 
it  really  is  not  necessary  to  give  them  any  other 
protection;  but  it  does  not  take  very  long  to  bend 

136 


CULTIVATION 

down  the  long  trailing  branches  carefully  and  cover 
them  with  earth.  This  should  especially  be  done  in 
the  case  of  climbing  Hybrid  Teas,  as  these  kill  back 
very  much  more  than  the  other  climbers. 

RECIPES  FOR  THE  DISEASES  OF  ROSES 

Below  we  quote  extracts  from  the  best  known 
authorities,  giving  their  recipes  for  mildew,  black 
spot,  rust,  etc. 

"THE  ROSE  BOOK"  (Page  211).  H.  H.  THOMAS  suggests  using  a 
mixture  for  mildew  of  equal  parts  of  fine  quicklime  and  sulphur 
dusted  on  the  affected  areas. 

"ROSES,  THEIR  HISTORY,  DEVELOPMENT,  AND  CULTURE"  (Page 
303).  PEMBERTON  advocates  the  same  dusting  and  also  gives  the 
following:  1  Ib.  flowers  of  sulphur,  1  Ib.  powdered  quicklime. 
Add  sufficient  water  to  form  a  paste.  Add  one  gallon  of  cold 
water.  Boil  for  twenty  minutes  and  when  cool  pour  off  the 
liquid  and  spray  at  the  rate  of  half  a  pint  of  the  above  mixture 
to  six  gallons  of  water. 

(Page  303).  PEMBERTON  recommends  1 Yi  Ib.  of  Calvert's  carbolic 
soft  soap  in  7^2  quarts  of  water — a  pailful;  spray  with  one  part 
of  mixture  to  three  parts  of  soft  water,  and  he  adds,  "this  is 
the  remedy  we  apply." 

" ROSES  AND  ROSE  GROWING"  (The  Macmillan  Co.),  (Pages  137- 
138).  Miss  KINGSLEY  advocates  flowers  of  sulphur  for  mildew, 
distributed  by  a  pair  of  powder  bellows,  and  suggests  applying 
before  mildew  appears.  She  uses  Quassia  Chips  for  Aphis,  and 
recommends  picking  by  hand  for  caterpillars. 

"THE  ROSE"  (Page  89).  ELLWANGER'S  recipe  for  mildew  is  sulphur 
and  soot,  applied  while  the  dew  is  on  the  plants  so  that  it  will 
adhere. 

" ROSES"  (Page  52).  The  Garden  Library  of  Doubleday,  Page  & 
Company  suggests  for  black  spot  carbonate  of  copper  com- 
pound, using  five  ounces  of  copper  compound  to  three  quarts 
of  ammonia  and  sixty  gallons  of  water.  The  spraying  should 
be  done  once  a  week,  using  a  hose  with  a  nozzle  that  gives  a 
fine  spray. 

"PICTORIAL  PRACTICAL  ROSE  GROWING"  (Pages  80-84).  WRIGHT 
does  not  mention  black  spot,  but  our  understanding  of  the 
reference  made  to  orange  fungus  or  red  rust  is  that  it  develops 
into  black  rust,  possibly  the  same  as  the  well-known  black  spot. 
This  article  is  so  clear  and  appeals  to  us  so  strongly  that  we 
quote  it  verbatim,  and  will  try  the  recipes  given  if  troubled  in 
the  future. 

137 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

"When  the  experienced  rose  grower  observes  orange-yellow 
spots  on  the  leaves  of  his  plants  in  early  summer,  he  knows  that 
he  sees  the  advance  guard  of  the  fungoid  disease  known  vari- 
ously as  orange  fungus  and  red  rust. 

"Some  suppose  these  to  be  separate  diseases;  on  the  contrary 
they  are  separate  stages  in  the  triune  life-cycle  of  disease, 
Phragmidium  subcorlicatum.  The  first,  or  dEcidium,  stage  gives 
the  orange  fungus;  the  second,  or  Uredo,  stage  gives  the  red 
rust;  the  third,  or  Teleuto,  stage  gives  a  black  rust. 
"Where  the  orange  fungus  has  obtained  a  strong  hold,  and  has 
caused  trouble  for  several  successive  years,  it  cannot  be  exter- 
minated at  a  single  attempt.  Repeated  attacks  on  it  must  be 
made.  Measures  may  begin  by  spraying  the  bushes  thoroughly 
in  the  spring,  before  growth  starts,  with  Bordeaux  mixture. 
"Bordeaux  Mixture. — To  prepare  Bordeaux  mixture  take 
2^4  lb.  of  sulphate  of  copper  (bluestone),  dissolve  in  a  little  hot 
water;  23^  lb.  of  freshly  burned  lime,  dissolve  in  cold  water; 
1  lb.  of  agricultural  treacle,  1  lb.  of  soft  soap.  Pour  together 
when  cool;  stir  the  treacle  or  soft  soap  well  in  and  make  up  to 
twenty-five  gallons  with  water. 

"When  the  first  signs  of  the  disease  appear  in  summer,  spray 
with  carbam,  repeating  if  necessary.  The  solution  should 
reach  the  under  as  well  as  the  upper  side  of  the  leaves. 
"To  prepare  carbam,  take  1  ounce  of  carbonate  of  copper, 
J^  pint  of  liquid  ammonia.  Dissolve  the  carbonate  of  copper 
in  the  ammonia  and  mix  with  ten  gallons  of  water." 

One  point  that  all  authorities  seem  to  agree  upon 
is  the  picking  and  burning  of  all  dead  and  fallen 
leaves  affected  by  black  spot. 


IX 


SOME  GENERAL  INFORMATION  AND 
HINTS  ON  HYBRIDIZATION 

BY  this  time  the  reader  should  have  gained  a 
practical  idea  of  how  to  make  a  small  rose  garden 
and  care  for  it.  If  he  wishes  to  go  into  the  various 
features  of  rose  culture  more  thoroughly,  the  books 
we  have  suggested  will  give  him  the  necessary 
information.  We  have  treated  more  especially  of 
the  small  rose  garden  for  the  average  American 
home;  we  have  not  considered  formal  gardens,  nor 
how  to  cultivate  the  various  weaker  varieties  of 
roses  to  any  extent. 

In  the  roses  marked  numbers  1  and  2  under 
heading  "List"  we  have  been  careful  to  give  only 
those  varieties  which  we  know  will  succeed  well 
without  any  great  care  or  special  protection.  In  the 
American  climate  of  which  we  write,  the  latitude  of 
the  Middle  Atlantic  States,  it  is  not  possible  to  grow 
some  of  the  roses  which  succeed  so  wonderfully  in 
the  south  of  England  and  in  France.  However, 
there  is  a  vast  area  in  the  United  States  in  which 
all  of  those  more  delicate  roses  may  be  successfully 
grown,  more  particularly  in  the  southeast  and  south- 

139 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

west;  in  fact  in  every  part  of  our  great  country 
where  there  is  little  frost  all  of  these  wonderful 
Teas  and  Climbing  Teas  and  Noisettes  may  be 
successfully  cultivated.  Therefore,  if  your  home  is 
in  that  section  of  the  country  we  strongly  advise 
you  to  try  all  roses  marked  "B"  and  "C"  in  our 
mam  list  under  the  heading  "Hardiness,"  but  we 
do  not  believe  it  would  pay  you  to  grow  Hybrid 
Perpetuals  to  any  extent  except  in  a  large  garden 
or  collection.  Although  we  can  recommend  these 
more  delicate  roses  for  the  southern  climate  referred 
to  above,  we  do  not  wish  to  intimate  that  they  are 
better  than  the  Hybrid  Teas  of  our  well-tried  list. 
These  should  succeed  as  well  as  in  our  own  climate. 
The  point  that  we  desire  to  bring  out  is  that  the 
more  delicate  roses  can  be  successfully  cultivated 
below  the  frost  belt.  In  the  northern  part  of  our 
country,  where  the  winter  is  very  cold  and  severe 
and  the  temperature  remains  considerably  below 
zero  for  long  periods,  roses  must  be  given  every 
protection  to  succeed;  in  that  part  north  of  Boston, 
for  instance,  only  the  very  hardiest  of  the  Hybrid 
Teas,  Hybrid  Perpetuals  and  Wichuraianas  will 
stand  the  winter  out-of-doors,  and  they  must  be 
given  even  more  thorough  winter  protection  than  is 
advised  for  our  Middle  Atlantic  climate.  In  all 
except  the  very  coldest  parts  of  our  climate  it  would 

140 


GENERAL  INFORMATION 

be  feasible  to  grow  the  hardiest  roses  by  covering 
them  with  a  deep  layer  of  soil,  or  by  transplanting 
in  the  winter  to  boxes  placed  indoors.  If  one  really 
loves  roses  it  would  seem  that  this  extra  trouble 
would  be  well  worth  while. 

In  this  colder  climate  the  best  method  which  we 
have  seen  is  that  roses  be  grown  in  good-sized  pots 
or  boxes,  and  in  the  autumn  when  frost  comes  the 
plants  be  moved  in  their  flower  pots  or  boxes  to  a 
cellar  or  building  where  extreme  cold  will  not  reach 
them.  In  the  case  of  a  cellar  with  an  earthen  floor 
the  pots  can  be  placed  beneath  the  surface.  The 
only  thing  necessary  during  the  winter  is  to  give  the 
plants  several  waterings.  In  the  spring  the  rose 
pots  or  boxes  should  be  carried  out  and  again  placed 
beneath  the  surface  of  the  soil  in  their  old  bed. 
While  we  have  never  tried  this  plan  ourselves  we  feel 
confident  that  even  in  an  extreme  climate  it  is  pre- 
fectly  feasible  and  could  be  carried  out  hi  any  part 
of  the  United  States.  We  know  of  roses  being 
grown  on  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  where  the  tem- 
perature reaches  forty  degrees  below  zero;  they  were 
protected  during  winter  by  the  device  of  covering 
each  bush  with  a  small  keg,  filled  with  earth.  The 
Hybrid  Perpetuals  did  best  in  this  locality;  even  the 
strongest  of  the  Hybrid  Teas  tried  gave  poor  results. 
In  our  own  more  moderate  climate  of  the  Middle 

14,1 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

Atlantic  States  and  in  approximate  temperatures 
it  would  be  possible  to  grow  many  of  the  more 
delicate  roses  with  the  heaviest  winter  protection, 
and  we  propose  to  try  this  experiment  next  year. 

One  of  the  best  means  of  protecting  roses  from 
the  cold  and  the  wind  is  a  good  brick  or  stone  wall. 
It  is  expensive,  but  even  a  low  wall  will  make  it 
possible  to  grow  the  smaller  Teas,  and  a  four-foot 
wall  would  be  of  great  use  in  protecting  low  bushes 
from  the  heavy  winds,  while  with  a  six  or  eight-foot 
wall  it  would  be  possible  to  care  for  the  wonderfully 
blooming  Climbing  Teas.  The  tender  Cherokee  rose 
is  being  successfully  grown  near  Philadelphia  on  the 
south  side  of  a  wall.  The  ideal  exposure  would  be 
a  wall  facing  the  south  or  southeast  and,  as  the 
winter  approaches,  the  climbers  could  be  taken 
down  from  their  fastenings  on  the  wall  and  covered 
over  with  earth  and  the  smaller  roses  cut  back  and 
heavily  covered.  In  an  ideal  rose  garden,  with  such 
a  wall  completely  surrounding  it,  there  would  be  a 
great  opportunity  not  only  for  the  proper  growing 
of  many  of  these  very  beautiful  varieties  which 
otherwise  one  cannot  hope  to  raise,  but  by  utilizing 
both  sides  of  the  wall  it  also  would  be  possible  to 
bring  roses  into  bloom  at  different  times.  On  the 
north  side  only  the  very  hardiest  of  the  climbing 
roses  would  do  at  all  well.  Crimson  Rambler  and 

148 


GENERAL  INFORMATION 

Wichuraianas  would  be  roses  to  try  on  such  an 
exposure,  and  if  four  such  roses  of  the  same  variety 
were  planted  on  four  different  exposures  they  would 
come  into  bloom  at  various  times,  thus  lengthening 
the  period  of  bloom. 

A  difference  in  soil  and  situation  affects  the  time 
of  bloom  to  some  extent.  A  north  slope  will  come 
in  slightly  later  than  a  southern  exposure;  but  in 
colder  sections,  and  particularly  in  sections  where 
late  frost  is  liable  to  occur  after  growth  is  started,  a 
north  slope  is  a  safe  exposure.  In  such  a  situation 
the  early  spring  sun  will  not  reach  the  roses  as  it 
would  on  a  southern  slope,  and  they  will  not  be 
forced  into  growth  only  to  be  killed  back  afterwards 
by  the  late  frosts.  It  has  been  well  proven  that  high 
ground  will  not  have  as  much  frost  as  low,  well- 
sheltered  ground,  for  in  the  latter  the  frost  will 
settle  in  the  late  spring  and  cause  damage,  whereas 
on  the  high  ground  the  air  will  have  free  access  and 
will  not  allow  the  frost  to  remain,  as  it  seems  to  do  in 
low-lying  ground. 

Proximity  to  the  ocean  or  any  large  body  of  water 
gives  a  more  even  temperature  than  is  found  in 
inland  sections.  On  Buzzard's  Bay,  Massachusetts, 
where  we  lived  for  a  number  of  years,  we  were  very 
successful  with  our  Hybrid  Teas,  and  even  with 
some  of  the  Teas.  The  winters  were  much  colder 

143 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

there  than  farther  south  in  Philadelphia  where  we 
now  reside,  but  with  proper  and  heavy  hilling  up 
there  was  a  very  small  percentage  of  deaths,  and 
owing  to  the  cool,  moist  climate,  the  blooms  were 
particularly  fine.  We  remember  especially  that  the 
Pierre  Notting  of  the  Buzzard  Bay  district  was  a 
much  superior  rose  to  the  one  grown  near  Phila- 
delphia. However,  since  that  time,  after  experiment- 
ing with  various  roses  of  about  the  same  growth 
and  bloom  as  Pierre  Notting,  we  have  discovered 
that  Alex.  Hill  Gray  is  much  superior  to  it,  be- 
ing the  same  type  but  a  better  grower,  with 
more  perfect  foliage  and  bloom.  For  these  rea- 
sons we  have  replaced  Pierre  Notting  with  Alex. 
Hill  Gray. 

There  is  a  very  interesting  list  of  roses  for  the 
locality  of  Chicago  published  in  "How  to  Make  a 
Flower  Garden,"  in  which  Mr.  W.  C.  Egan  gives 
his  experience  with  roses  near  Jackson  Park,  Chicago. 
From  the  list  which  he  selects  it  would  seem  that 
the  hardiest  Hybrid  Teas  would  do  well  there,  as 
his  article  included  with  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals 
several  Hybrid  Teas  and  Teas  which  are  not  among 
our  hardiest  varieties. 

On  the  Pacific  Coast  roses  do  wonderfully  well. 
In  Santa  Barbara,  California,  they  come  into  bloom 
before  Christmas,  and  the  growing  season  there  be- 

144 


FIRST    BLOOM    OX    HYBRID    TEA    SEEDLING— AT    SEX 
WEEKS 


GENERAL  INFORMATION 

gins  after  the  priod  of  summer  drought;  what  we  in 
the  East  would  call  early  autumn  is,  in  reality,  spring 
in  southern  California.  Farther  north  on  the  Pacific 
Coast  we  have  friends  who  advise  that  roses  are  most 
successful  with  them,  and  no  doubt  roses  in  our  list 
which  are  marked  "B"  and  "C"  as  to  hardiness 
would  probably  not  whiter  kill  to  any  extent,  al- 
though we,  naturally,  more  strongly  recommend  the 
roses  in  our  set  of  sixteen  chosen  varieties. 

HINTS  ON  HYBRIDIZATION 

It  would  hardly  seem  that  this  chapter  will  be 
complete  without  further  information  on  the  most 
interesting  part  of  rose  growing,  that  is,  hybridiza- 
tion to  secure  new  varieties.  The  books  which  we 
have  noted  in  the  chapter  on  propagation  will  take 
the  reader  very  thoroughly  through  this  most  fas- 
cinating subject,  and  they  should  be  secured  by 
any  one  who  proposes  to  attempt  such  work. 

We  have  been  making  experiments  with  seedlings 
and  with  hybridizing  for  some  time  past.  It  will 
be  found  by  the  person  who  wishes  to  have  some 
interesting  work  for  the  winter  and  who  can  give  up 
part  of  his  greenhouse,  that  a  great  deal  may  be 
accomplished  even  in  a  limited  space.  A  conserva- 
tory would  also  give  one  an  opportunity  to  make 
interesting  experiments. 
10  145 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

The  Hybrid  Tea  list,  with  the  addition  of  Pernet- 
Ducher's  Pernetiana,  makes  this  section  of  outdoor 
roses  very  complete,  but  there  is  still  a  large  field 
to  work  upon  and  particularly  in  the  climbing  section. 
Any  one  who  can  breed  a  hardy  seedling  climber 
which  will  bloom  reliably  from  frost  to  frost  will  be 
giving  the  rose  world  a  most  important  addition. 
By  securing  a  few  potted  plants  in  the  early  autumn 
quite  a  number  of  crosses  could  be  made,  although 
the  chances  of  securing  what  is  desired  would  not 
be  as  great  as  if  one  had  more  plants  with  which 
to  experiment. 

During  the  past  season  we  have  been  most  suc- 
cessful with  all  our  hybridizing  and  therefore  one 
or  two  hints  may  be  of  use  to  any  one  deciding  to 
undertake  such  a  task. 

As  most  of  the  books  state,  a  rose  will  become 
fertilized  with  its  own  pollen  more  quickly  than  by 
the  pollen  of  any  other  rose.  The  main  point  for 
success  is  to  watch  most  carefully  the  rose  which  is 
to  be  bred  so  that  before  the  pollen  becomes  ripe 
the  anthers  and  stamens  may  be  removed.  It  is 
very  easy  to  tell  when  the  pollen  is  ripe  because  it 
will  then  drop  in  small  yellow  particles  upon  the 
petals  of  the  rose,  and  if  one's  finger  is  rubbed  across 
the  anthers  the  yellow  dust  will  at  once  be  noticed. 
Our  procedure  has  been  to  pluck  off  the  petals  of 

146 


ROSE  WITH  PETALS  REMOVED,  SHOWING  THE  STAMENS  AND  ANTHERS 
WHICH  BEAR  THE  POLLEN 


FIG.  7 

SAMK   ROSE  AS  FIG.  6  WITH  MOST  OF  STAMENS  AND  ANTHERS  REMOVED 
SHOWING  THE  STYLES  AND  PISTILS— THE  FEMALE  ORGANS 


GENERAL  INFORMATION 

the  selected  rose  before  the  pollen  reaches  this  stage. 
After  the  petals  have  been  removed  a  small  pair  of 
scissors  should  be  used  to  cut  off  the  anthers.  Our 
method  has  been  to  have  a  helper  hold  a  piece  of 
paper  on  which  most  of  the  stamens  and  the  anthers 
and  their  pollen  will  be  caught,  and  as  we  cut  them 
off  we  turn  the  rose  and  only  cut  the  stamens  from 
the  under  side,  thus  precluding  any  possibility  of  the 
immature  pollen  reaching  the  pistils.  As  the  sta- 
mens are  cut  off  we  generally  find  that  some  few 
of  them  will  be  bent  over  and  not  yet  fully  developed, 
and  these  should  be  carefully  severed  from  the  plant 
because  later  on  they  will  be  dangerous  to  the  experi- 
ment. The  pollen  contained  on  the  anthers  which 
you  have  cut  off  if  kept  in  the  sun  will  be  developed 
and  can  be  used  on  any  other  flower  which  you  care 
to  hybridize.  Having  prepared  the  seed  parent  or 
female  flower,  you  must  now  secure  the  pollen  from 
the  other  parent  selected.  If  you  do  not  desire  to 
use  the  other  plant  from  which  you  purpose  taking 
the  pollen  for  a  seed  parent,  it  will  be  unnecessary 
to  secure  the  pollen  as  above  suggested,  but  the 
whole  flower  may  be  cut  and  the  pollen  should  be 
active  to  have  the  experiment  a  success. 

All  authorities  seem  to  agree  with  our  experience 
that  a  bright,  warm  day  is  the  best  on  which  to  breed 
roses,  as  in  damp,  cloudy  weather  the  pollen  does  not 

147 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

seem  active.  When  the  pollen  is  falling  from  the 
anthers  in  the  small,  yellow  dust,  just  mentioned, 
there  is  little  doubt  that  your  rose  will  be  properly 
fertilized,  it  being  only  necessary  to  shake  the  pollen 
on  to  the  pistils  of  the  rose  selected  as  a  seed  parent 
for  the  hybridizing  to  be  complete.  If  you  desire  to 
use  the  rose  you  have  selected  as  pollen  bearer  also 
as  a  seed  parent,  you  must  remove  the  pollen  from 
it  as  suggested  above,  otherwise  it  will  become  fer- 
tilized by  its  own  pollen.  Perhaps  it  is  safer  to  be 
sure  of  each  experiment  as  one  progresses;  therefore 
it  is  well  to  cut  off  the  anthers  before  the  pollen 
becomes  ripe  and  then,  cutting  the  rose  selected  for 
the  other  parent,  dust  its  pollen  on  the  seed  parent 
selected. 

We  have  found  that  practically  all  of  the  roses 
we  have  hybridized  have  become  good,  healthy  seed 
pods  and  have  contained  seeds;  this  success  we 
attribute  to  the  fact  that  we  have  always  used  great 
care  and  have  never  tried  to. hybridize  except  with 
active  pollen. 

After  roses  have  been  hybridized  you  have  nothing 
to  do  but  allow  the  seed  pods  to  develop,  and  when 
the  weather  becomes  warm  in  late  spring  or  early 
summer  take  the  plants  from  the  greenhouse  or 
conservatory  and  plant  the  pots  in  soil  out-of-doors 
to  enable  the  heps  to  mature  properly.  In  order  to 

148 


FIG.  8 
SEKD  POD  ON  A  HYBRID  TEA  ROSE  WHICH  HAS  lil.KN   IIYIMIDIZEI) 


GENERAL  INFORMATION 

protect  seed  pods  from  birds  or  other  interference 
it  is  advisable  to  cover  them  both  on  the  sides  and 
tops  with  wire  netting.  Towards  early  autumn  the 
seeds  should  be  taken  carefully  from  the  heps 
and  planted,  each  lot  being  kept  separate  from  the 
others. 

Our  experience  has  been  that  probably  in  mature 
seeds  a  little  rose  plant  will  sprout  in  a  month  or 
thereabouts.  Sometimes  it  will  take  two  months  or 
even  longer,  but  with  greenhouse  care,  bottom  heat, 
and  carefully-selected  soil  for  germination  of  the 
seed  a  month  and  a  half  will  witness  the  appearance 
certainly  of  some  plants;  in  the  course  of  another 
six  weeks  very  small  blooms  will  appear  on  some 
few  of  them,  though  not  with  the  climbers. 

It  is  our  understanding  that  the  commercial  firms 
who  grow  new  varieties  at  once  bud  on  Manetti  or 
Briar  stocks  to  propagate  the  wood,  but  where  a 
person  had  only  a  few  seedlings,  the  method  of 
inarching  would  seem  to  us  the  most  practical  way 
to  secure  quick  results. 

"  Commercial  Rose  Culture,"  by  Eber  Holmes, 
contains  a  very  interesting  article,  with  illustrations, 
of  this  method.  It  mentions  that  the  Department 
of  Agriculture,  Washington,  B.C.,  Bulletin  No.  202, 
Bureau  of  Plant  Industry,  Mr.  George  W.  Oliver, 
is  the  source  from  which  the  information  is  taken. 

149 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

This  operation  would  be  very  much  quicker,  and  is 
supposed  to  be  even  more  rapid  than  securing 
average  blooms  from  cuttings.  This  is  a  plan  we 
hope  to  try  in  our  own  seedlings. 

To  learn  the  method  of  inarching,  the  "Nursery 
Book,"  by  Mr.  L.  H.  Bailey,  previously  referred  to, 
will  give  all  the  information  required  and  should  be 
used  in  conjunction  with  the  book  by  Holmes 
just  mentioned. 


INDEX 


Admiral  Dewey  rose,  36 
Aime6  Cochet  rose,  36 
Alex.  Hill  Gray  rose,  50,  144 
All-round  best  roses,  41,  50,  52, 

53,  54,  55,  56,  57,  59,  60,  61,  65 
Alphides,  or  green  flies,  127 
Alpina  roses,  propagation  of,  by 

suckers,  17 
American   growers,    advantages 

of  buying  from,  94 
Annie  Besant  rose,  50 
Antoine   Revoire  rose,   36,   50 

102,  103 
Best  16,  No.  3 
Ards  Rover  rose,  68 
Arthur  R.  Goodwin  rose,  50 
Ashes  as  a  fertilizer,  126 
Autumn  planting,  advantage,  97 

B 

Bardou  Job  rose,  50 
Baroness  Rothschild  rose,  50 
Beaute  Inconstante  rose,  50 
Beds,  care  of,  107 

composition,  87 

design — suggestions,  100, 102 

drainage,  87 

finished,  88 

for  autumn  planting,  90 

location  and  preparation,  80 

soil,  soils,  83,  88 
Belle  Siebrecht  rose,  37 
Best  all-round  roses,  41  sq. 


Betty  rose,  50 

Best  16,  No.  15 

Black  spot,  cure  for,  132,  138 

Blanc  Double  de  Coubert  rose, 
51 

Blanks,  forms  for,  98 

Blood  as  a  fertilizer,  126 

Bone  meal,  105,  126 

Bourbon  Perpetual  rose,  31 

Breeding  new  varieties,  30 
methods  kept  secret,  35 
table  of  main  varieties,  31 

Brenda  rose,  51 

Briar  stocks  for  budding,  19,  149 
for  grafting,  24 

Bridesmaid  rose,  36 

British  Queen  rose,  51 

Budded  roses,  20,  22,  23,  93 

advantages  of,  21,  22 
objections  to,  20 

Budding,  18,  19 

Buds,  small,  removal  of,  126 

Bugs  or  beetles,  131 


Camoens  rose,  sport  from  (Ecar- 

late),  26 

Captain  Hay  ward  rose,  51 
Caroline  Testout  rose,  36,  51,  69 
Cecile  Brunner,  climbing,  72 
Celine  Forestier  rose,  74 
Characteristics     of     prominent 

roses,  33 
Chauteau  de  Clos  Vougeot,  51 


151 


INDEX 


Cherokee  rose,  142 
China  roses,  31 
Christine  Wright  rose,  69 
Classification — main     varieties, 

50-66 
Climate,  American,  influence  of, 

on  European  roses,  38,  40,  139 
Climbers,  67 
planting,  75 
pruning,  76 
Wichuraiana,  76 
Climbing  Hybrid  Tea  roses,  68 
Climbing  Kaiserin  Augusta  Vic- 
toria, 69 
Climbing  Mrs.  W.  T.  Grant  rose, 

70 

Climbing  Richmond  rose,  70 
Cloth  of  Gold  rose,  74 
Colors  and  shades,  40,  42 
Conrad  Ferdinand  Meyer  rose, 

51 

Coquette  de  Lyon  rose,  37 
Coquina  rose,  74 
Countess  of  Shaftesbury  rose,  51 
Crimson  Rambler,  78,  142 
Crushed  stone  for  underdrain- 

age,  87 

Cultivation,  125 
Cutting  of  flowers,  121 
Cutting  off  bushy  tops  in  late 

autumn,  134 
Cuttings,  15,  17,  21 


Daily  Mail  rose,  59 
Damask  Hybrids,  31 

propagation  of,  17 
Perpetual,  31 
Dean  Hole  rose,  51 
Debutante  rose,  74 


Diagram  showing  location  of 
each  rose  should  be  kept,  102, 
103 

Disbudding,  126 
Diseases,  125 

remedies,  126,  137 
Dr.  Gill  rose,  36 
Dr.  Van  Fleet  rose,  70 
Dorothy  Dennison  rose,  72 
Dorothy  Page  Roberts  rose,  51 
Dorothy  Perkins  rose,  72,  73 
Dorothy  Ratcliffe  rose,  51 
Drainage,  87 

Duchess  of  Albany  rose,  26 
Duchess  of  Sutherland  rose,  52 
Duchess  of  Wellington  rose,  52, 

102,  111 
Best  16,  No.  14 

Duchess  of  Westminster  rose,  52 
Dwarfs  (bushes)  and  standards, 
38-40 


Ecarlate    rose,    a    sport    from 

Camoens,  26,  52 
EdnaSe  Metz  rose,  36 
Edu  Meyer  rose,  52 
Eliza  Robichon  rose,  73 
Ellen  Wilmot  rose,  52 

Best  16,  No.  4 
Etoile  de  France  rose,  52 
Eugene  Boullet  rose,  52 
Evangeline  rose,  30,  73 
Excelsa  rose,  29,  73 


Farben  Koenigin  rose,  53 
Ferdinand  Jamin  rose,  36 
Fisher  Holmes  rose,  36,  53 
Flies,  green,  127 


152 


INDEX 


Flowers,  number  of,  in  a  season, 

111 

Foreword,  7 

Formaldehyde  for  spraying,  133 
Forms    for    inquiry    and    order 

blanks,  98,  99 
Fortune's  Yellow  rose,  78 
Franciscka  Kruger  rose,  53 
Frau  Karl  Druschki  rose,  36,  44, 

53 

Best  16,  No.  1 
Freifrau  Ida  von  Schubert  rose, 

53 

Freiherr  von  Marschall  rose,  53 
Frost,    protection  of  soil  from, 

for  late  autumn  planting,  90 
F.  R.  Patzer  rose,  53 


Gardenia  rose,  73 
Gartendirector  Hartrath  rose,  53 
General  Jacqueminot  rose,  35,  70 
General  Mac  Arthur  rose,  29,  53, 

102,  111 
Best  16,  No.  10 
General-Superior  Arnold  Janssen 

rose,  53 

Geoffrey  Henslow  rose,  53 
George  Arends  rose,  53 
George  C.  Waud  rose,  54 
George  Dickson  rose,  54 
George  Laing  Paul  rose,  3 
Gloire  de  Dijon  rose,  74 
Gloire  Lyonnaise  rose,  54 
Grace  Molyneux  rose,  54 
Grafting,  24 

Grange  Colombe  rose,  54 
Green  flies,  destruction  of,  127 
Greenhouse  for  hybridization,  32 
Grossherzog  Freidrich  rose,  54 


Ground,  cultivation,  128 
Gruss  an  Teplitz  rose,  54 

Best  16,  No.  12 
Gustav  Grunerwald  rose,  55 


Harry  Kirk  rose,  55 
Best  16,  No.  13 
Heinrich  Schultheis  rose,  sports 

from,  27 

Hermosa  rose,  55 
Hiawatha  rose,  29,  73 
Hilling  up  late  in  autumn,  134, 

144 

Hoeing,  128 

Hon.  Ina  Bingham  rose,  55 
Hugo  Roller  rose,  55 
Hybrid  China  roses,  31,  34 

Perpetual  roses,  22,  27,  29- 
31,  34,  38,  44,  47,  68, 
122,  139 

ancestors  of,  30,  31 
Tea  roses,  22,  27,  30,  31,  34, 
38,  47,  68  sq.,   122,   139, 
143,  144 

Wichuraiana  roses,  29,  69 
Hybridization,  30,  32,  33,  145 
Hybrids,  seeds  from,  useless,  16 


Indica,  Odorata,  31 
Information,  general,  139 
Irish  Brightness  rose,  55 
Irish  roses,  single,  44 


Jacqueminot  rose   (see  General 

Jacqueminot) 
Jacques  Vincent,  55 


153 


INDEX 


Japanese   Multiflora  stocks  for 

budding,  19,  20,  94,  95 
John  Cuff  rose,  55 
Jonkheer  J.  L.  Mock  rose,  55,  111 

Best  16,  No.  6 

Joseph  Hill  rose,  45,  55,  102,  103 
Juliet  rose,  55 

K 
Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria  rose, 

37,  56 

Key  to  classification,  51 
Killarney  rose,  40, 46, 56, 102, 1 1 1 
new  varieties  of  (sports), 

26 

Best  16,  No.  5 
Killarney  Brilliant  rose,  56 
Konigin  Carola  rose,  36,  56 

L 

La  Detroit  rose,  36 

La  Fiamma  rose,  74 

La  France  rose,  34,  37,  57 

dark,  26 

La  Tosca  rose,  57 
Lady  Alice  Stanley  rose,  56,  111 

Best  16,  No.  8 
Lady  Ashtown  rose,  56 
Lady  Barham  rose,  56 
Lady  de  Bathe  rose,  56 
Lady  Downe  rose,  57 
Lady  Hillingdon  rose,  57 
Lady  Katherine  Rose,  57 
Lady  Margaret  Boscawen  rose, 

57 

Lady  Mary  Fitzwilliam  rose,  37 
Lady  Pirrie  rose,  57 
Late  autumn  planting,  90 
Laure  de  Broglie  rose,  57 
Laurent  Carle  rose,  57 

Best  16,  No.  11 


Layering,  16 

Liquid  manure,  126 

Litter  for  winter  protection,  134, 

135 
Location    and    preparation    of 

beds,  80 

Lord  Penzance  rose,  57 
Louise-Catherine  Breslaurose,58 
Lucida    roses,    propagation    of, 

from  suckers,  17 
Lyon  rose,  58,  95 

M 

Mabel  Drew  rose,  58 
Madame  Alfred  Carriere  rose,  75 
Madame  A.  Tupinier  rose,  58 
Madame  Berard  rose,  35,  70 
Madame  Bravy  rose,  34,  35 
Madame  Charles  Dubreuil  rose, 

58 

Madame  Charles  Lutaud  rose,  59 
Madame  Charles  Worth  rose,  59 
Madame  Edm4e  Metz  rose,  36, 

59 
Madame  Edmond  Rostand  rose, 

59 
Madame  Edouard  Herriot  rose, 

59 

Madame  Gabriel  Luizet  rose,  59 
Madame  Hector  Leuillot  rose, 

59,  71 
Madame  Jules  Bouche  rose,  59 

Best  16,  No.  2 

Madame  Jules  Grolez  rose,  60 
Madame  Leon  Pain  rose,  60,  111 

Best  16,  No.  7 

Madame  MelanieSoupertrose,  60 
Madame  Ravary  rose,  60 
Madame  Segond  Weber  rose,  60 
Madame  Victor  Verdier  rose,  34 


154 


INDEX 


Mdlle.  Marie  Mascurand  rose,  60 
Main  list  of  roses,  43,  50-66 
Maman  Cochet  rose,  60 
Manetti  stocks  for  budding,  19, 

149 

for  grafting,  24 
Manure,  105,  125,  126 
Marechal  Niel  rose,  74 
Margaret  Dickson  rose,  60 
Marquise  de  Sinety  rose,  60 
Mary,    Countess    of    Ilchester, 

rose,  61 

Merveille  de  Lyon  rose,  36,  61 
Mildew,  129,  131,  132 
Miss  Alice  de  Rothschild  rose,  61 
Mrs.  Aaron  Ward  rose,  61 
Mrs.  Amy  Hammond  rose,  61 
Mrs.  Arthur  E.  E.  Coxhead  rose, 

61 
Mrs.  A.  R.  Waddell  rose,  6 

Best  16,  No.  16 
Mrs.    Charles    Custis    Harrison 

rose,  61 

Mrs.  Dudley  Cross  rose,  61 
Mrs.  E.  Townshend  rose,  62 
Mrs.  Frank  Bray  rose,  62 
Mrs.  Fred  Straker  rose,  62 
Mrs.  George  Dickson  rose,  62 
Mrs.  Harkness  rose,  27 
Mrs.  Harold  Brocklebankrose.62 
Mrs.  Herbert  Hawksworth  rose, 

62 

Mrs.  John  Laing  rose,  62 
Mrs.  Joseph  H.  Welch  rose,  63 
Mrs.  Leonard  Petrie  rose,  63 
Mrs.  Longworth  rose,  36,  63 
Mrs.   Wakefield   Christie-Miller 

rose,  63 

Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant  rose,  37,  63 
climbing,  70 


Mock  rose  (see  Jonkheer  J.  L. 
Mock),  55,  111 

Molly  Sharman  Crawford  rose, 
20,61 

Moss,  84,  100,  129 

Mulching  with  peat  moss,  84-87, 
129 

Multiflora  (see  Japanese  Multi- 
flora) 

Musk  rose,  31 

My  Maryland  rose,  29,  63 

N 

Natalie  Bottner  rose,  63 

New  varieties,  development,  25 

Noisette  roses,  31,  74,  75 


Odette  Pedriolle  rose,  63 

Ophelia  rose,  63 

Ordering,  importance  of  care  in, 

91 

Oskar  Cordel  rose,  63 
Own-root  roses,  21,  22,  92 


Paul  Neyron  rose,  64 
Paul's  Early  Blush  rose,  27 
Peat  moss  for  rose  beds,  84-87, 

129 

Periods  of  blooming,  111 
Pernetiana  rose,  31,  146 
Perpetual  Hybrids,  22,  27,  29, 

30,  31,  38 
Persian  Yellow  rose,  16 

Briar  (Luteae),  31 
Pests,  125 

remedies,  127,  137 
Pharisaer  rose,  64 
Pierre  Netting  rose,  144 


155 


INDEX 


Pinching  off  superfluous  blooms, 

121 
Planting,  beds  and  preparation,  80 

general  instructions,  100 

late  autumn,  advantage,  97 

of  climbers,  75 

rules  for,  106 
Plants,  acclimated,  94 

autumn,  90 

budded — field -grown — 
dormant,  92 

grafted — small,  38 

ordering  of,  91 

own-root,  21,  22,  92 
Polyanthas,  climbing,  72 
President  Carnot  rose,  102,  103 
President  W.  H.  Taft  rose,  64 
Prince  de  Bulgarie  rose,  64 
Principal  A.  H.  Pirie  rose,  64 
Propagation  by  suckers,  17 

established  varieties,  15 

new  varieties,  23 
(Protection  from  autumn  frosts,  90 

general,  133 

of  standards,  135 

wall — wind — winter,  136 
Provence   hybrids,   propagation 

of,  from  suckers,  17 
Pruning,  general,  109 

in  late  autumn,  134 

of  climbers,  76 


Queen  Mary  rose,  64 


Radiance  rose,  29,  64 
Rayon  d'Or  rose,  64 
Red  Four  Seasons,  31 


Reine  Marie  Henriette  rose,  35, 

70 
Remedies,    pests    and    diseases, 

125,  137 

Renee  Wilmart-Urban  rose,  65 
Richmond  rose,  65 

climbing,  70 
Robert  Huey  rose,  65 
Roots  of   roses,   care  of,    100, 

106 

feeding  of,  125 
spreading  out,  104,  107 
Roots  of  trees,  protection  from, 

80 

Rosa  Moschata,  31 
Roses,  best  of  each  main  color,1 

42,  43  sq. 
breeding  —  main    varieties, 

31 

budded,  19,  22,  95 
budding,  19 
classification  of,  50-66 
climbers,  67 
cultivation,  125 
dwarfs,  39 

foreign — color  varying,  40 
pedigree,  35,  36 
sixteen  best  all-round,   41, 
50,  52,  53,  54,  55,  56,  57, 
59,  60,  61,  65 
standards,  38,  135 
Rugosa    roses    propagated    by 

suckers,  17 
stock  for  budding,  20 
Rules  for  planting,  106 


Seedlings,  25,  28 
Seeds,  established  varieties,  16 
hybrids,  16 


156 


INDEX 


Senateur  Mascurand  rose,  65 
Shoots  from  below  the  bud,  20 
Shower  of  Gold  rose,  74,  75 
Simplicity  rose,  65 
Sixteen  best  roses,  41  sq. 
Slugs,  destruction  of,  130 
Soil,  most  suitable,  83 
Souv.  de  Louis  Perrier  rose,  65 
Souv.  de  M.  Verdier  rose,  36 
Souv.  du  President  Carnot  rose, 

65,70 
Spinosissima  roses,  propagation 

of,  by  suckers,  17 
Sports,  25 

rarity  of,  28 

Spraying  to  kill  aphides,  127 
Standards      and      dwarfs      (or 

bushes),  38 
protection  of,  in  winter,  39, 

40 

weeping,  39 

Stock  of  plants  kept  on  sale,  92 
Stocks,  Briar,  19,  24 

budded  —  dormant  —  field- 
grown,  acclimated,  92,  94 
Japanese  Multiflora,  19,  94, 

95 

Manetti,  19,  24 
Rugosa,  17 
shoots  from,  below  the  bud, 

20 

Suckers,  17,  130 
Sunburst  rose,  65 
Suzanne     Marie     Rodocanachi 

rose,  65 
Sweetheart  rose,  29 


Tea  roses,  22, 37, 38, 39, 140, 144 

climbing,  68  sq.,  140,  142 
Tongueing  (see  Layering),  17 


Ulrich  Brunner  rose,  65 
Underdrainage,  87 


Varieties,  beet,  33,  41,  50  sq. 

established,  15 

introducers  of  new,  27 

main  list,  50-66 

new,  40 

propagation  of  new,  23,  25 
ViscountessFolkstonerose,  36, 66 

W 

W.  A.  Richardson  rose,  75 
Watering,  129 
White  Dorothy  rose,  73 
White  Killarney  rose,  66 
White  Maman  Cochet  rose,  66 
Wichuraianas,  69,  70,  72  sq.,  140 
Wm.  Shean  rose,  66 
Willowmere  rose,  66 
Windbreaks,  81,  142 
Wintering  roses,  139  sq. 

received  late  in  autumn,  93 
Wood  ashes  as  a  fertilizer,  126 
W.  R.  Smith  rose,  66 

X 

Xavier  Olibo  rose,  66 


ALEX.  HILL  GRAY    Tea 

ALEX.  DirKsox  &  SONS    1911 

With  us  lighter  than  description.     Fair  growth,  some  autumn  bloom 


See  litt 


ANNIE  BESANT    Hybrid  Tea 
P.  NABOSNASD  1910 


ISK.U  TK  INCONSTAXTE     Tea 
PKKSKT-DUCHEB  1393 


. 

-;     -r 
-   21 


CARDINAL    Hybrid  Tea 

COOK  &  SON  1904 

F;iir  growth,  some  late  aut  .mn  bloom 
A  Collector's  rose 


COMTESSE  FELiriE  IIOYOS    Hybrid  Tea 
SOIPKKT&  NOTTING  1912 

Both  shy  bloomers 


LADY   GREENALL    Hybrid  Tea 
AI.F.X.  DK  KSON  &  SONS  1911 


CHARLES  J.  GRAIIAMK     Hybrid  Tea  KAISER,  WILHELM  II.     Hybrid  Tea 

ALEX.  DICKSON  &  SONS  1905  WELTEK  1910 

Both  weak  growers  in  Middle  Atlantic  States 


See  Hit 


])KAN  HOI.K     Hybrid  Tea 
ALF.K.  DICKSON  &  SONS  1904 


DOROTHY  PAGE  ROBERTS     Hybrid  Tea 
AI.KX.   DKK-ON   &  Suss  1907 


DUCHESS  OF  SUTHERLAND    Hybrid  Tea 

AI.K.X.   DlfK-oN   &   SONS   1912 


DUCHKSS  OK  WKSTMIN^TKIl     IIHl,rid  Tea 
AI.KX.   DKKSON-  &  Si.vs   1!II1 


T.AUL  OF  \VAR\VICK     Hybrid  Te 

PAUL  &  SON  1904 
Fair  grower,  some  autumn  hloom 


ELIZABETH    Hybrid  Tea  C.  W.  COWAN    Hybrid  Tea 

B.  11.  CANT  &  SONS  1911  ALEX.  DICKSON  &  SONS  1912 

Both  fair  growers  with  some  autumn  bloom 


EVELYN  DAI  NTKSSY    Hybrid  Tea 

McGREDY    &   SON    1911 

Very  weak  grower  in  Middle  Atlantic  States 


See  lift 


FARBEN  KOXIGIX     Hybrid  Tea 

HlNNKK    100-2 


See  litt 


FREIHERR  von  MARSCHALL     Tea 

P.  LAMBERT  1904 


See  list 


GEORGE  DICKSON    Hybrid  Tea 
ALEX.  DICKSON  &  SONS  1911 


Si-e  list 


HERMO5A    China 
M.\xciir.sAN  1840 


See  list 


HUGO  ROLLER     Tea 
PAIL  &  SON  1907 


&ee  list 


JOSEPH  HILL     Hybrid  Tea 
PEKXET-DUCHER  1904 


See  list 


LADY  ASHTOWN     Hybrid  Tea 

Al.EX.    DlCKSON    &    SOXS    1911 


LADY  BARHAM    Hybrid  Tea 
ALEX.  DICKSOS  &  SONS  1911 


LADY  BATTERSEA    Hybrid  Tea 

PAUL  &  SON  1901 
Shy  bloomer  and  weak  grower.     A  collector's  rose. 


MARY  rorXTKSS  OF  ILCHESTER 

See  list 


GEORGE  C.  WAUD 

See  li.il 


SVe  Hit 


LADY  deBATHE     Hybrid  Tea 
B.  H.  CANT  &  SONS  1911 


See  list 


LADY  HILLING  DON     Tea 
LOWE  &  SUAWYEH  1910 


LADY  MOYRA  BEAUCLERC    Hybrid  Tea 

ALEX.  DICKSON  &  SONS  1901 
Weak  grower  in  Middle  Atlantic  States 


See  lint 


LADY  PIRRIE    Hybrid  Tea 
HUGH  DICKSON  1910 


ES  x 

D  ^ 


Sue  litt 


MABEL  DREW     Hybrid  Tea 
ALEX.  DICKSON  &  SONS  1911 


Sfe  list 


MADAMK  A.  TUPIXIER    Hybrid  Tea 
A.  PEDHIOLLE  1910 


Sre  list 


MME.  EDOUARD  HERRIOT    Fernet iana 
PERNET-DUCIIER  1913 


MADAME  PAUL  ROUCHON    Hybrid  Tea 

PEDRIOI.LF.   191 3 
Fnir  grower,  some  autumn  bloom 


See  Hut 


MADAMK   SK(,()ND   WEBER     Hybrid  Tea 

SotPKKT    AND    NOTTIXG    1808 


MADAME  VERMOREL     Tea 
MABI  1901 

Small  grower;  some  autumn  bloom 


MADAME  WAGRAM,  COMTESSE  deTURENNE     Hybrid  Tea 

BEHN-AIX  1805 
?ome  autumn  bloom,  weak  grower  in  Middle  Atlantic  States 


MLLE.  MARIE  MASCURAND    Hybrid  Tea. 
BERNAIX  1909 


tr  —  S 

ur 


See  list 


MARY.  COUNTESS  OF  ILCHESTER    Hybrid  Tea 
ALEX.  DICKSOS  &  SONS  1909 


See  list 


MISS  ALICE  dcROTHSCHILD     Tea 
ALEX.  DICKSO.N  &  SONS  1910 


MRS.  CHARLES  C.  HARRISON    Hybrid  Tea 
AI.F.X.  DifKsox  &  SONS  1910 


MRS.  CHARLES  E.  ALLAN    Hybrid  Tea 

HIGH  DICKSON  1911 
Weak  grower  in  Middle  Atlantic  States 


MRS.  JAMES  CRAIG    Hybrid  Tea 

HUGH  DICKSON  1908 
Small  grower,  some  autumn  bloom 


See  list 


MRS.  LEONARD  PETRIE     Hybrid  Tea 
ALEX.  DICKSON  &  SONS  1910 


MRS.  RICHARD  DRAPER    Hybrid  Tea 

HUGH  DICKSON  1912 
Only  fair  growth,  some  autumn  bloom;  poor  foliage 


See  list 


NATALIE  BOTTXKR     Hybrid  Tea 

BoTTNER    1910 


OPHELIA     Hybrid  Tea 
WM.  PAUL  10H 


See  litt 


PHARISAER     Hybrid  Tea 
\V.  HINXER  1903 


PRESIDENT  \V.  H.  TAFT     Ilylrid  Tea 
WM.  PAUL  &  Sox  1910 


See  list 


PRINCE  de  BULGARIE     Hybrid  Tea 

I'ERNET-DUCHER    190? 


See  list 


RADIANCE    Hybrid  Tea 
JOHN  COOK  1012 


II 


ST.  HELENA    Hybrid  Tea 

B.  R.  CAST  &  PONS  1912 

Not  hardy  in  Middle  Atlantic  States 


WHITE  KILLARNEY     Hybrid  Tea 
WABAX  ROSE  Co.   190!) 


A    000  087  382     8 


